SandervG
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Posts posted by SandervG
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Hi Keith,
I am very sorry for your troublesome experience with our level of support or dispatching orders up to this point.
I have looked up your order and went ahead and cancelled it, you should receive an email from my colleague Simone to process your refund and I will personally look into it that this is handled the most efficient way so there should be no reason to delay your new filament from faberdasherry.
My apologies for the inconvenience, and I hope within a very short notice you can get back to printing
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Ha Kees,
You still are looking for stickers?
I would expect you had found some by now, perhaps at the show.
I will get some over to you!
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I have heard reports that loosening the 4 screws in the printhead helped, and loosening the 4 screws that hold the feeder tight also may help.
Obviously I do not mean that the printhead should start showing gabs in between the housing, but do not make it as tight as you can. Just have it reasonable tight
(I do not believe in any manual 'reasonable tight' would be a certified way of describing tension) :wink:
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Hi,
Coming Monday, 10th of March 2014, is our next Ulti-evening in Protospace in Utrecht.
The address is Nijverheidsweg 16B, 3534 AM Utrecht
We have a few exciting talks lined up!
- Willemienke de Klerk will talk about the 'Castle-project' at Protospace. They are reincarnating old and lost castles with digital fabrication.
- Tobias Strating is working on a large water purification system in which 3D printing has a big role.
The schedule on 10th of March at Protospace:
17.00 - 18.00: Arrival. Find a spot for your Ultimaker if you brought one.
18.00 - 18.30: until 18.30 you have the chance to sign up for dinner. It costs €10 p.p.
19.00 - 19.45: Food!
20.00 - 21.00: Presentations.
21.00 - 22.00: Some time to chat, laugh and inspire. And of course have a drink or 2.
And as always the talks will be filmed!
See you there!
- Ultimaker
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Are you saying your print still retracts even when you do not have retraction enabled?
On the screenshots however I do see retraction enabled..
At what speed and distance are you retracting?
Could you check if the grubscrew on the teethed gear is still secured and super tight?
You could test this by manually trying to hold back your filament?
Do you see the teethed gear slipping on the Extruder motor?
You could also put a mark on the extruder motor and the gear an see if this mark shows any off set after a print.
At what temperature are you printing?
80mm/s is maybe a bit fast for default temperature (depending on what filament you have).
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You should also have a solid brim in Cura.
Perhaps your bed is just slightly too far away from your nozzle.
Instead of squeezing the filament on the bed it is now more laying it on there.
I think this will create the gaps in your brim.
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You can also grab the Zstage by the end near the rods, and lift it up manually.
That way you do not have to wash your hands
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Great to hear @braddock :-P!
I can't find the post now, but either Daid or Sander suggested to spray some WD-40 in the bowden tube to see if it would help. I'm glad that such an easy fix helped you in your case; I suppose it's another thing to add to the list of fixes that work.
I think it was me on Nicolinux post, but I believe for Nico it did not make the difference.
I am glad to hear for Braddock it did
You do have to be careful that you do not use too much as it may interfere with bed-adhesion.
Good to read your problem seems to be solved Bob
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We have recently been shipping with both DHL and FedEx.
You should receive an email with your tracking number once your order is shipped, if not you could
get in touch with me or our team and we would happily supply you with your tracking number
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What I said February 21st is still valid
'Week 10 (week from March 3rd) will ship all order until January 1st. This means the lead time at that point has decreased to 9 weeks.
Week 11 (week from March 7th) will have all orders shipped until January 16th. The lead time will be 8 weeks at that point.
That is it for now.
Of course, for everyone who wants an indication please feel free to send me a DM and I will be more than happy to help :)'
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Information and statistics can be used to prove anything !! LOL :wink:
All I know in my simple modest way is...
IM THE BEST
IM THE BEST
IM THE BEST......
I said Im modest ! :wink:
But apart from joking :smile:
I have to say the forum is growing amazingly at the moment with bunches of brilliant happy new people all the time.
And I think the whole thing is a lot to do with the boss behind it. Sander.
We as a community couldnt ask for a better man to captain this ship.... Fair. Helpful and Creative.. a winning combination to make a lot of people very happy.
Facebook beware.. The Ultimaker Forum is coming .....
Ian :smile:
oh Ian you.. :oops:
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Thats the printer that made my decision harder while considering to buy a 3D printer. I decided for Ultimaker 2 in the end, but i would love to see a review of the printer when you recieve it even on this Ultimaker forum.
If the Makerbot 5th generation supported ABS, prints same dimension as Ultimaker 2 and ready for dual extrusion i would have bought it. The craftmanship and build quality look very promising.
However im more proud for buying Ultimaker 2 than Makerbot
If I am not mistaken I heard on the 3D Printshow in New York that they are stepping away from Dual Extrusion, so the new generations will be single head only (whether it will be PLA or ABS depends on the bed I think.).
I thought that was kind of a strange move...
And I haven't seen one print either.
And also they will move towards 2mm filament - or is this just a rumor?
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If you are seeing something that some people refer to as 'pillows', like the infill shows through the top layer of your print you indeed should increase the bottom top layer.
You can adjust quite a few settings on the fly like speed, temperature, flowrate, fanspeed and bed temp but you can not change the amount of infill halfway through your print. That would probably do more damage then good to your print anyway.
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I am sorry, I don't understand "That means orders placed until 13-12-14" . 13-12-14 is ?
whoops, a typo is what it is.
I have changed it to 13 december 2013.
Thank you for notifying me!
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Alright as promised a new update on the lead times.
First thanks to everyone for their patience and understanding, I totally understand that the wait can be pretty long and we do our very best to send out all Ultimaker orders as soon as possible.
Nothing would make us and you happier
Next week we are facing a lead time of 10 - 11 weeks.
That means orders placed until 13-12-13 will be shipped during that week.
From that week on we will (finally) see some improvement and we will make some progress on the lead time.
Week 10 (week from March 3rd) will ship all order until January 1st. This means the lead time at that point has decreased to 9 weeks.
Week 11 (week from March 7th) will have all orders shipped until January 16th. The lead time will be 8 weeks at that point.
That is it for now.
Of course, for everyone who wants an indication please feel free to send me a DM and I will be more than happy to help
I will also be sending out an email to the customers involved to notify them about these dates, in case they are not yet on the forums.
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The brown substance is a special copper lubricant for keeping the leveling screws nice and lubricated !
Ian :smile:
Thank you Ian
I think here is some room for improvement on the robot.
Perhaps print a little bit cooler.
I assume both your fans are operational?
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Hi Ken,
Thank you for your post.
You were right with fixing the pulley when you were printing sideways.
Except when you are not printing you should not let your printhead stay at a high temperature.
It will either burn your material or the PLA inside will drip out, and your nozzle will be empty. Resulting in an underextruded first layer on your next print.
The PEEK can not melt at 250º but since you also detected the blue led to flash that was the cause.
This means it had a loose connection to the amplifier circuit board / thermocouple transmitter and at a certain point lost connection. It could no longer tell what temperature your printhead was and it kept on heating. Hence; a melted PEEK.
The connection could have been easily fixed by re-inserting the signal cable in this amplifier circuit board.
if the PEEK melted that can not be repaired, you would be best off buying a new one and perhaps a new brass pipe as well if this got stuck.
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The prints on the SD card are indeed for testing purposes and to have some things available before you get into slicing.
Nothing to fancy, but easy to print.
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We have everything on stock again (except maybe ABS White, I should check). All the missing rolls are being sent out through this week and halfway to next.
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Just warm water and a towel.
For a small print like a robot, or most PLA prints for that matter, you don't really need glue.
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Come on, just for the unlucky ones. A little report on lead time. Any admin? SandervG?
Yes, I will give an update by the end of this week. Not just for the unlucky ones, but for everyone
Thank you for your patience. -
If I am not mistaken the ID of the bowden tube should be 3.16mm
We have had some experiments with larger ID but we found the 'normal' works better.
I do not think they were ever sold with larger ID.
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You are welcome
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That is interesting, i will have to wait two more weeks than my order date because my funds were returned by mistake.
Add that on top i have 2 times costs of sending money and 1 cost for returning money.
What David says is correct, but when your payment is delayed because of some problems getting it through but the intention was to pay immediately your shipment date will be calculated based on your order date.
What is your favorite test print object?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
For me it was always http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757 one, the hollow pyramid.
(ohnoooooo he made a link to thingiverse).
I always had it sunk in the bottom a couple of mm so the bottom would not take that long.
But it gives you a damn good idea on what settings to use for your filament if you want to print with an overhang and without any stringing.
Atleast... from my experience