SandervG
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Posts posted by SandervG
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Hi All,
Rutger from our R&D department took the time to write down a small survey for our users. With our community being all responsive and involved and all I figured it wouldn't be much of a problem to ask a couple of minutes from your time to fill out this survey.
It is about the mobility of Ultimaker Original / Ultimaker 2.
Is it always at the same place, or moved around a lot and on what areas can it be improved. etc
It would be much appreciated if you could spare 3-4 minutes to fill it out.
The Survey can be found http://tinyurl.com/UltimakerSurvey.
Thanks and have a great day!
- Sander.
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Hi Jono,
I also just replied to you through the wiki and you will receive a reply shortly from my colleagues.
I have also notified our outbound operator about the missing part, the fact it happened twice.
You should receive your missing part asap.
Thank you for notifying us about this!
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Hi EldRick,
Do you need a new glass plate, a new heated bed or an entirely new Z-stage?
Of course in no situation our existing customers should be disadvantaged, new or old ones.
(I prefer that no one gets disadvantaged actually..)
If you could let me know what you need I can see what we can do for you.
I think perhaps there is a mis communication.
Looking forward hearing from you!
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oh thát printer, yes I have read about it
Exactly as you said, there was a lot of buzz around it and I am very curious to see what parts of it they can actually deliver.
But don't let the full color fool you, as you can see on their samples they color changes are only over the entire Z axis.
For example, if you wanted to print a chess board standing up (best example I can think of right now) I don't think that would be possible as it would require you to swap color several times in one layer. (Does this make sense to anyone?)
In regard of your filaments, they do claim to have ABS: ' ABS supported with additional cartridges (not included in standard package) '
I think a part of the buzz was that a lot of their https://botobjects.com/latest-updates look like renderings. What is anyones thought on this?
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what does your bottom surface look like? It can be completely perfectly smooth.
Perhaps you can fine tune the bed leveling just a little bit more?
And indeed the Z is more accurate then X and Y, but I don't think you will gain much because a phone cover doesn't have a lot of details in X and Y, and the overhangs will be quite difficult when printing it standing up..
My suggestion would be to focus on getting your bottom perfect, and print it flat.
Plus you would not only not have to create a work around for this print, you will benefit from this perfect bed leveling every print! hooray!!
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And one other thing I forgot to mention, 1 thing you will not find in any review is reliability.
Any printer can have the best specs in the world, but if only 1 out of 15 prints come out successfully you still have
a shitty printer
.. I do not mean that in regard of the ProDesk3D Printer specific, but in any comparisons in general.And service. You will probably run into some kind of difficulty with your printer.. that is most likely bound to happen.
What you want to figure out is, what will happen then. Will you be left out in the dark or will the community and Ultimaker (or a different manufacturer) help you out? That is information you want to find out, and best way is to look for first hand experience. IMHO.
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I have not checked out that machine yet.. but how is the Ultimaker not full 3D?
Or do you mean full color?
:mrgreen:
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..Is it ours?
What color is it? You should fix your WB
But no, that is not very common no.
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Hi Chris,
Thank you for your reply.
Do you know why it never got through customs?
Please don't worry about the shipping costs, we will solve this with you.
I will inform our outbound operator to get in touch with the courier, thank you for your time!
It is about time we can solve and close this permanently, and more important, get you back to 3D printing!
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I've fed in new filament after an old one has ran out on the fly several times. All I did was firmly press the new filament against the old one as it entered into the feeder. It's a bit boring since you have to sit there and baby it for a few minutes but it's doable (small price to pay on a 30 hour print). So in your case I'd just cut the filament, remove the blob and then do what I described above.
edit: I should mention this was on the UM1, I haven't tried it yet on the UM2.
True.. but if you do this retraction doesn't work anymore because what happens at the feeder mechanism doesn't affect the seperated piece of filament.
What I have already done a couple of times is:
Prepare a new reel of filament. (straighten the tip)
Very quickly open the feeder upgrade, pull out the filament
Grab the new reel of filament, feed it up in the tube
Close the feeder upgrade
Swap the reels on the reel holder.
While I was typing the above, I realized you had an Ultimaker 2.
Because you can not manually open the feeder, I would recommend to use a little knife or whatever to shave it down a bit. It would even be better to make it too thin. You would hardly notice if it is only that spot.
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Hi Enno,
Could you send me your ticket number in a DM?
It would be best to contact us and we would be happy to send you the missing parts.
Have you double checked the packaging?
Most of the parts you have missing come from one pack that very rarely has pieces missing.
Obviously, it is possible but if they would be lying around somewhere that would be the fastest solution
- Hobbed bolt, you mean the drive bolt for the feeder upgrade?
My apologies for the inconvenience,
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And clean the glass when it looks dirty or when you have done numerous prints.
By grease, dust or excessive glue-residue you will have less adhesion to the bed
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How about just being able to open it, but by default it is a closed unit?
I can imagine with an open design you have more dust etc that can travel up with the filament?
If you can just open it to see if it is running properly (with something as simple as a hinge?) but also have the option to close it wouldn't that be better?
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I think by itself it is already remarkable that someones absence is being noticed.
Shows what an involved community we are
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Yes.. Or do you think Germany is to specific? I don't want to exclude anyone.
So how about we focus on the western Hemisphere?
You are from Leipzig, dunno about Skint or Albert but perhaps it would be fun
to host an evening in the Leipzig-area? Where people can gather with their Ultimaker, have some drinks.
Share your experience and knowledge, favorite hacks.
Or just go to a bar
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It a poignant reminder that behind all the avatars and jokey comments are real people with real lives.
Stefan, I wish you well my friend.
I agree.. Stefan I you the best, it is a shi*tty situation.
Take care man!
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How about hosting like an Ulti-evening somewhere in the area?
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A couple of things are included in this printer that I think might be interesting on the UM wishlist. Automated bed leveling capable of compensating for a warped build plate, and a software trick to tweak the distance between extruder and printbed during the first few layers.
From my experience I am not convinced until i actually see it work.
I see a lot of claims by a lot of manufacturers, and 9 out of 10 times it is just marketing or it doesn't work..
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140C nozzle?
ABS has a min temp of 240C usually (natural ABS without pigments), and up to 260-270C for black ABS. printing hotter will make better layer bonds, printing lower than 240C will result in underextrusion, if you even get anything meaningful out of the nozzle to begin with.
I was assuming it was a typo.
Also, I would try to print without the fans initially.
What model are you trying to print? Do you have problems with only this print or with various models?
Not all models are equally suited for 3D printing.
Thank you !
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In regard of warping I think you should also clean your glass plate after several prints, or when it looks dirty.
The amount of adhesion can also be involved if there is a lot of plastic or glue residue, or perhaps dust or 'grease' from your hands.
When have you received your Ultimaker 2?
Could you send me your serial number in a DM? Thanks
Is your Ultimaker extruding / oozing before your print starts?
Or are you perhaps starting your print without any pressure in the nozzle and this is being build up through the beginning of your print? Is it always just the bottom that is underextruding or only the beginning you have to help feeding the filament manually?
Thank you!
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.. and pictures as well
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What are the problems you run into?
We have thousands of users and most of them are happy users and I think throughout the years the design has proven itself.
That does not mean there is no room for error or it is not working in your case.
I think if you can guide us through your experience and what you run into we would be able to help and get you in sync with your extruder
Have you made any other modifications?
Besides the HW, are you printing with a default profile usually, when it fails?
If you can give as much (relevant) info as possible that would be very helpful
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You are welcome!
We promised to launch the files during the actual launch of the Ultimaker 2 and here we are !
I hope that it ignites an interaction between Ultimaker and its users, its valued community members.
Together we can innovate, inspire, and bring this technology to a higher yet unknown level!
Hopefully it will also be convenient for those who want to make (smaller) iterations to the design so it fits their needs perfectly, and I hope everyone will share their iterations so everyone can benefit.
That is what is is about right. Sharing your knowledge, so on your turn you can learn from others and we all get better. Sharing your knowledge doesn't mean you have lost it yourself.
It is a big step and I am very curious to see what will come out of it.
At Ultimaker we all are obviously.
Have a great weekend!
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Thank you!
.. I do not mean that in regard of the ProDesk3D Printer specific, but in any comparisons in general.
Mobility survey for Ultimaker
in What have you made
Posted
Thank you very much for your contribution