SandervG
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3D Prints
Posts posted by SandervG
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Those of you who are Ordering from the U.S. Good news! you guys can order it from Makershed and same some money on cost... As of right now they have it in stock...
Has anyone try there filament from makershed? I just order from Ultimaker and have to pay 50.74 for shipping 4 filament rolls and 2 print heads plus I'm waiting on the customs invoice crap to come in.. it's just not worth ording filament for this price of shipping and custom cost..
http://www.makershed.com/Ultimaker_2_3D_Printer_p/mkum3.htm
I don't want to burst anyones bubble, but unfortunately they are not in stock at Makershed.
Where did you get that info?
I put it to the test, moved one to a shopping cart and got the following message:
- The following item is currently out of stock: Ultimaker 2 3D Printer __Please sign up on the product page to be auto-notified via email when product becomes available
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If you have a heated bed, you may want to reconsider the entire Z-stage.
So bed leveling doesn't have to be an issue, depends what you end up with.
However, if you keep it stock-model I have good experience with this easy upgrade:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19912 or http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126716
Same idea.
For direct drive I would try to get in touch with snowygrouch.
I believe he is rather experienced on this matter.
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Definetly worth considering
What are MBI colors?
Makerbot Industries :ph34r:
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You may consider a direct drive. I just switched one axis to direct drive (I would have changed both axis but the other new rod is a banana... :sad: ) and I must say it's much easier to get smooth results with the direct drive. However as the mass-to-vibration ration is changed, I got some additional sounds...
Good point, didn't think of that one.
Is a bit of a bigger hack, but I think that would probably also be a good enhancement.
At least to make it more reliable / consistent.
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'Last but not least, I'll print all the parts in red ABS which will look awesome on the black frame;
You do know those are MBI-colors?
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Is there any guide for 3D printing?
Starting with the printing technology, what is possible, what is not possible (overhang angle limit, bridges), how can you achieve shapes that usualy are not possible (e. g. by using removable parts to get larger bridges), and 3D printing specific proceed to get better results, print faster and consume less materials.
Yes there is, written by a very knowledgeable guy Florian:
http://www.amazon.com/Florian-Horsch/e/B00EYZPHXM
At the moment it is only in German, and since I don't speak German I haven't read it yet but I hear solely good reviews. Ive been told an English version is on the way.
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' I hope you don't mind me complimenting you :wink:'
Give me 1 reason why I would? ^_^
On another note: Thanks!
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I would add some belt tensioners on the long belts.
From the beginning I have used the iron part from a cloths pin, always worked perfect for me.
Dual fan.
Add a second fan to your print head, and solder it on the same header as your current fan.
That way you have 2 fans connected and run simultaneously.
And a heated bed.
For me that would be it I think. (btw, mentioned in no specific order)
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I have also a bit of a graphical background, as http://sandervangeelen.nl/
Now I am going to learn the tools of 3D modelling and hopefully convert my ideas for (mainly) character design into 3D models.
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It is a difficult time because yesterday is always better then today. (never fast enough).
But so far most people have proven to be very understanding and patient. For this I want to thank our community, another reason why you guys are so great!
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I understand the question and why you ask, but I don't think I am entitled to share that information.
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No matter what the answer is, you have to have some confidence that the answer is right. While I would fault Ultimaker for being unrealistically optimistic about their ability to clear backlog and try to obfuscate what the backlog is, I haven't seen a documented out-right lie (yet). My suspicion is that they didn't properly account for the xmas/new years slowdown and there may also have been a blip in the number of orders which caused them to revise the lead time from 6-8 (realistically 8-10) to 8-10 (I'll leave it to you to figure out what the realistic wait time is).
Here's how you can piece together what it is going to be. Look around for how long people say it took them to get one (I would suggest as a service to readers that people reading this should post the order date and when the order was shipped so that other people can have a feeling on how long a realistic wait is). As of this post, they seem to be working on orders in the early November time frame. Then grub around for people who post what the answer to their lead time query were. Just saw something with a Nov 20 with a quote for 1st week in Feb ( almost 11 weeks ).
Now, this period is somewhat tricky because of the anomaly that the xmas/new years period induces. On the good(?) side, you'll have people like me that's tired of the shenanigans and drop out (well, trying to, anyway), and there's no scheduled Dutch holidays for the near future, so if there was ever a time they would make progress on their backlog, it would be in this period. However, and I said this before, there is no reason to believe your order would be fulfilled sooner than the what you see people currently getting. That is, if you were quoted 8, and people are saying they have waited 10 weeks, don't expect that 8 week estimate is accurate until you see someone saying they got one in less than 10 weeks.
Hi Roger,
Thank you for your post.
First things first, you mentioned you are trying to get out?
Your order was send yesterday.
I will contact you through a PM to find an appropriate solution for this, if you still feel that you want to cancel your order.
The current lead time now fluctuates between 8-9/9.5 weeks, and may vary between this week and next week.
This depends on the amount of machines we are capable of sending out every week and how many orders came in during that period of time (when orders were placed).
My apologies if it looks like I/we are not responsive but a lot of the requests are send to me as a PM, and that is where I also answer to a lot of people. And also here on the forums I intend to be as responsive as possible.
If there are any further questions, from anyone, please feel free to ask
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I ordered on November 6th and am still waiting for it to be shipped. It was scheduled for last week, but I got notified that there was a bit of a delay again. Hopefully the wait is almost over :smile:
Your order will be shipped today at the latest, thank you for understanding!
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@Héctor, and you are not alone. The silence from UM-staff is getting quite annoying :-|
I already send you a reply to your PM
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One month of waiting...done. One month to go!
(any chance of an expected ship date for my order?)
Your order is scheduled for week 7, which is exactly 1 month after your post.
If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask!
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Waiting patiently for my shipment information
Can you send me your ordernumber, post it here or by PM?
I will give you an update about your order. Thank you.
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Do you mean you want to raise the temperature from 50mm/s to.. ?
During the print or while preparing in Cura?
During a print you can increase the speed if you go to Tune > Speed (100%).
It is available at the home menu when you are in the middle of a print.
100% means only what speed you set in Cura, it can be 30mm/s, 50mm/s or anything else.
If you increase it with approx 20% (80-120%) you don't really need to change anything else.
Of course it depends on the complexity of the model if increasing the speed would be wise.
If you want to increase or decrease it more, you probably also want to change the print temperature, as you want those two to be in balance. As a rule of thumb:
200°C - 30mm/s
210°C - 50mm/s
230°C - 80mm/s
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I love how this became such an active topic again!
Amazing things pass by, great work all you guys!
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Hi Leon,
I agree.
I will notify Daid about this
Thank you!
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It is hard to say on the picture with that angle, but can you try to bend your fanshroud slightly either upwards or downwards? (based on the picture I think it should be slightly upwards).
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I can only say, it never happened to me before.
Perhaps David has a clue
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Hi Shurik,
Allow me to answer your questions:
1: Yes. There is no reason why PLA would not be good for this purpose.
2. Since you are waiting your Ultimaker 2, heat your bed to 70/75°C and you should have zero warping.
To be sure you can add some glue that is being shipped with it, but I don't think that will be necessary.
3. The overhangs in this case are usually referred to as bridging. Considered they are relatively small you may need to use a small knife to remove 1 string, but that should be it probably.
4. Do you want to make it, or convert it in a printable file? For the latter, I would recommend Cura.
5. What colour do you want to print it in? My experience with PLA white is that it requires a slightly higher temp, so I would say Bed: 75°C , nozzle 220°, speed 50mm/s, resolution 100 micron
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Keep me posted and if necessary I will help you out with a spare clip or a new tightner.
(if it is just the clip, you can also print one? - more time-efficient).
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Goed opgemerkt Kees, bedankt.
Als ik het goed lees, heeft fablab013 deze zelfs ontwikkeld.
Laat maar weten hoe dat heated bed werkt.
De prijs is best scherp, als het werkt een interessante upgrade.
Wij gaan zelf onze officiële heated bed binnen enkele maanden uitbrengen.
Ultimaker² lead time update
in Official news
Posted
I saw that video before, great result!
At first I was surprised in the way you placed your model on the build platform.
Because it has the support structure like, right in its face. The part I would intend to keep as clean as possible.
But in the end you hardly ANY marking of where the support was.
Great job, really.
Did you also print the rest of the suit?