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Posts posted by SandervG
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I would also advice to check the belt tension, in particular the small belts on the motors.
You can tighten them by unscrewing the motors, push them down and tighten them again.
You can also try to align the belts, because it seems like they are skipping steps.
Align them in a way that they are paralel to the axis.
Have you checked if all the pulleys are screwed on tight?
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I don't think if you would use a 12mm instead of a 10mm it would cause any harm.
After all, the end stop is meant to put a stop to your sliderblock
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Thank you for your suggestions and solutions.
I don't think there is any harm in using a slightly larger bolt for the end stops.
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I would have suggested the same things, so i am looking forward to hear about your findings.
If you are experiencing a plug perhaps it is interesting to look into the new hot end V2.
Are you printing with different colours or only 1?
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You are very right and i have put it through to our production department to keep an extra eye out for this.
It is something that comes from our supplier.
Alltho it is not a very big problem it can be annoying.
Have you been able to solve it with a nut or did you fix the stripped holes?
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You could use a slightly longer bolt and a nut to tighten the end stop.
But if you ever want to make some changes to the position of your end stop after assembly
putting the nut back is very difficult because practically everything will be in the way..
You can also contact support and we could replace your end stop.
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Hi Adam,
Have you tried waiting a little bit?
Is the printhead moving, or is it staying at the home position?
The string it is extruding might be just some oozing because the hot end is being heated.
And i would advice to give Cura a try
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Hi Sam,
For now the official Z axis layer resolution that is within reach without any magical powers would be 40 microns, so 0,04mm. I have seen some very nice looking experiments that go even thinner.
So to answer your question, if you are able to create a good profile you can go up to 40 microns for sure.
The hardware shouldn't be the problem.
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Hi Dazzan,
Come by our stand! We are at U10, somewhere near the restaurant!
I will see you there.
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Hi Douglas,
We have taken this upon us among with a revised version of the wiki.
So it is a work in progress.
But if anyone wants to give you some more insight in the meantime please feel free!
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Yes it is a slightly different bowden clip.
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If you haven't heard it yet, please read the following new blog
http://blog.ultimaker.com/2012/09/07/1504/
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I don't want to derive you from Printrun, but perhaps you could take a look at Slic3r.
If i am not mistaken it offers the option to give different speed settings to bridges / non print travel speed / first layer speed and perimeters.
You could check it out
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Yes, definitely tomorrow!
We have just finished all arrangements and it is ready to go.
So i guess i will be talking to y'all tomorrow then
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Or you can check out
http://betterfuturefactory.com/
They already went to Lowlands (Big Dutch Festival) to recycle the used plastic cups and recycle them
to rings and what not.
Ultimakers have been used for printing the recycled plastic, awesome!
They have other big events in there agenda.
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We are working very hard to make the new hot end available for y'all!
Most likely tomorrow or the day after, but it will be accompanied with a blog post so keep an eye
out for this.
I would just like to add to this discussion, we have had several printers printing over 58 hours non stop
without any problem (except running out of filament).
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Hi Andrew,
I am sorry to hear you are experiencing troubles with your Hot end.
I think the fastest way to get your hands on a new hot end is to order one in the store when it becomes available.
If you sent an email to [email=sales@Ultimaker.com]sales@Ultimaker.com[/email] i will contact you asap when i can sent it to you.
This will be either today or tomorrow.
I hope this is a proper solution for you,
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Hi Mastheraldo,
Do you print with retraction/destring?
With the standard feeding mechanism that is provided with the UM, this can cause trouble in your
feeding mechanism. So i recommend to print without retraction, or use this printable upgrade:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094
If you do not, please check the tension on your adjustment screw.
It could be that this is too tight, and deforms your filament causing it to get stuck in the bowden tube.
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Hi Fluxline,
The ID of the PEEK should be 6.35/6,40mm
The deflection temperature i don't know from the top of my head.
But with the new hot end there is an extra piece included to create some extra space between the heater block and the peek, so the temperature will be significantly lower in the PEEK. And therefore it shouldn't effect the bowden tube.
I wouldn't say it is a design flaw, but it has a weak spot. The assembly is quite delicate, and this is one of the issues
that is being improved with the new hot end. It is fail proof, meaning it can only be assembled 1 (correct) way.
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I don't think i have ever shown my Ultimaker.. here it is:
What a beauty ^^
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There is also a big 'inhouse' difference.
Beside the fact you can take it out much faster and it deliveres a more constant quality.
We made the v2 drive bolt ourselves.
So it took time to craft them, and it was a pretty difficult process to make them so it would have a
constant and good grip. This resulted in a lot of bolts going to trash and cost a lot of time.
So the v2 bolts that were good, probably are still good. But the v3 bolt is more constant, is produced a lot faster and you
can take it out way faster then the old bolt.
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It is VERY unwise to trim your bowden tube.
It must be 100% perfect flat, like: |_|
If it is somewhat crooked it automatically always has a gap what
will cause leakage. We take real good measurements to make sure every bowden tube is flat on the bottom but if
you are experiencing leakage, it could never hurt to check. You could check by placing the bottom on a flat surface like a table. If you decide to cut it, make sure it is 100% flat. But if you would go to support for a new bowden tube, we will most likely consider your bowden tube as unreliable. (we have to have some sort of guidelines).
When you are assembling your extrusion head, and you are leaving a small gap at the side where your hot end is, make sure this is because you can not tighten it any further, instead of leaving a gap because it says so in the manual.
If you feel like you can tighten the 4 long screws all the way, then you most likely have a gap between in your PEEK.
Try to lower your bowden tube by 0,5mm/1mm and see if this makes a difference.
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Hi Nik,
Thanks for your reply!
I don't think this is the right topic for this, but i will give you a brief answer on your post.
If you want to go into it any further, i suggest you open a new topic
We are aware of the filament issues, and it is keeping the Ultimaker from reaching it's full potential.
But we are looking for ways to improve the quality of the filament or an upgrade so a small variation wouldn't matter as much as it does now.
One of the solutions is a new feeding mechanism that is in development now.
One other thing you mentioned was a new hot end. We have a new design on the way (
https://p.twimg.com/A1U5ZQeCcAMqsb_.jpg
) and more details will be revealed later on this week.
The spikes in the power supply i am not aware of. What i have experienced is when a print doesn't make it through the night this is not due to something in the power supply, rather due to variation in the filament diameter.
My intention is not to make a flying visit , i am browsing the forum to see if i can help.
But the most secure way to get help from the team is to sent us a direct email.
Another member of the team will make it's appearance soon, in the form of a community manager.
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Hi All,
Yeah it will be a good improvement on the Ultimaker.
More details will be revealed later on this week, just a little bit more patience
Thanks!
Z-axis resolution??
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
well, i have seen a print at 0,02mm. I know it's not 0,01mm but you.... just sayin