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SandervG

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Posts posted by SandervG

  1. I would also advice to check the belt tension, in particular the small belts on the motors.

    You can tighten them by unscrewing the motors, push them down and tighten them again.

    You can also try to align the belts, because it seems like they are skipping steps.

    Align them in a way that they are paralel to the axis.

    Have you checked if all the pulleys are screwed on tight?

  2. You are very right and i have put it through to our production department to keep an extra eye out for this.

    It is something that comes from our supplier.

    Alltho it is not a very big problem it can be annoying.

    Have you been able to solve it with a nut or did you fix the stripped holes?

  3. You could use a slightly longer bolt and a nut to tighten the end stop.

    But if you ever want to make some changes to the position of your end stop after assembly

    putting the nut back is very difficult because practically everything will be in the way..

    You can also contact support and we could replace your end stop.

  4. Hi Sam,

    For now the official Z axis layer resolution that is within reach without any magical powers would be 40 microns, so 0,04mm. I have seen some very nice looking experiments that go even thinner.

    So to answer your question, if you are able to create a good profile you can go up to 40 microns for sure.

    The hardware shouldn't be the problem.

  5. We are working very hard to make the new hot end available for y'all!

    Most likely tomorrow or the day after, but it will be accompanied with a blog post so keep an eye

    out for this.

    I would just like to add to this discussion, we have had several printers printing over 58 hours non stop

    without any problem (except running out of filament).

  6. Hi Andrew,

    I am sorry to hear you are experiencing troubles with your Hot end.

    I think the fastest way to get your hands on a new hot end is to order one in the store when it becomes available.

    If you sent an email to [email=sales@Ultimaker.com]sales@Ultimaker.com[/email] i will contact you asap when i can sent it to you.

    This will be either today or tomorrow.

    I hope this is a proper solution for you,

  7. Hi Mastheraldo,

    Do you print with retraction/destring?

    With the standard feeding mechanism that is provided with the UM, this can cause trouble in your

    feeding mechanism. So i recommend to print without retraction, or use this printable upgrade:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094

    If you do not, please check the tension on your adjustment screw.

    It could be that this is too tight, and deforms your filament causing it to get stuck in the bowden tube.

  8. Hi Fluxline,

    The ID of the PEEK should be 6.35/6,40mm

    The deflection temperature i don't know from the top of my head.

    But with the new hot end there is an extra piece included to create some extra space between the heater block and the peek, so the temperature will be significantly lower in the PEEK. And therefore it shouldn't effect the bowden tube.

    I wouldn't say it is a design flaw, but it has a weak spot. The assembly is quite delicate, and this is one of the issues

    that is being improved with the new hot end. It is fail proof, meaning it can only be assembled 1 (correct) way.

  9. There is also a big 'inhouse' difference.

    Beside the fact you can take it out much faster and it deliveres a more constant quality.

    We made the v2 drive bolt ourselves.

    So it took time to craft them, and it was a pretty difficult process to make them so it would have a

    constant and good grip. This resulted in a lot of bolts going to trash and cost a lot of time.

    So the v2 bolts that were good, probably are still good. But the v3 bolt is more constant, is produced a lot faster and you

    can take it out way faster then the old bolt.

  10. It is VERY unwise to trim your bowden tube.

    It must be 100% perfect flat, like: |_|

    If it is somewhat crooked it automatically always has a gap what

    will cause leakage. We take real good measurements to make sure every bowden tube is flat on the bottom but if

    you are experiencing leakage, it could never hurt to check. You could check by placing the bottom on a flat surface like a table. If you decide to cut it, make sure it is 100% flat. But if you would go to support for a new bowden tube, we will most likely consider your bowden tube as unreliable. (we have to have some sort of guidelines).

    When you are assembling your extrusion head, and you are leaving a small gap at the side where your hot end is, make sure this is because you can not tighten it any further, instead of leaving a gap because it says so in the manual.

    If you feel like you can tighten the 4 long screws all the way, then you most likely have a gap between in your PEEK.

    Try to lower your bowden tube by 0,5mm/1mm and see if this makes a difference.

  11. Hi Nik,

    Thanks for your reply!

    I don't think this is the right topic for this, but i will give you a brief answer on your post.

    If you want to go into it any further, i suggest you open a new topic :)

    We are aware of the filament issues, and it is keeping the Ultimaker from reaching it's full potential.

    But we are looking for ways to improve the quality of the filament or an upgrade so a small variation wouldn't matter as much as it does now.

    One of the solutions is a new feeding mechanism that is in development now.

    One other thing you mentioned was a new hot end. We have a new design on the way (

    https://p.twimg.com/A1U5ZQeCcAMqsb_.jpg

    ) and more details will be revealed later on this week.

    The spikes in the power supply i am not aware of. What i have experienced is when a print doesn't make it through the night this is not due to something in the power supply, rather due to variation in the filament diameter.

    My intention is not to make a flying visit :), i am browsing the forum to see if i can help.

    But the most secure way to get help from the team is to sent us a direct email.

    Another member of the team will make it's appearance soon, in the form of a community manager.

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