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Everything posted by adhome

  1. Place for suggestions? Ok (; - While printing display not only a Progressbar. % Infos. Timer etc. would be nice.
  2. Hello, in cura, you can see the 3D Modell after slicing how the printhead will move and create the infill. So, you can test without real printing. The infill can be adjusted by a % value and a Pattern (lines or hexagons ect.). Your 3D Geometry must be solid. The Wallthikness will adust the shells. The lower and upper Layers will be always "solid".
  3. Adjusting Z is very important. See wiki how to. This is done by hardware. In Software you are only adjusting the E Steps
  4. Hello, if I print a cylinder with a hole in it, the hole will be a little too small. Cylinder is d=30.5mm. And the printed cylinder will have 30.1mm A hole of 7mm in it and a layer size of 0.2 the Hole will only have 6.5mm A 26.4mm Hole will have 25.9mm Material is PLV. Skin enabled. The Material amount is good. It looks like, that walls are general too big. Is there a setting or trick to skale the model to fit better (not in Z)? Thanks
  5. Hello, see sec 28 in video. There is comming nothing out of the nozle. Your Skirt looks good. Layer height 0.08 is not good. First try with 0.3 Temp >=250 Test your filament feed pressure Screew. Try print speed 30-40. Look at your first layer and the skirt. They must be perfect sticking. If yo see, that a layer is not sticking, you can abort the printing and try again. PS: I saw your PLA video. Looks good at begin. You can see in the first layer, that the amount of material is right and the material feed. On top, you have mutch to low material. That a feed problem. Tighten the fr
  6. Perhaps you entered a "," instead a "." in a inputbox. I got similar errors with invalid float value...
  7. Thanks I got the pins with a hammer and ABS. I do have a additional question. I have problems with the center. It broken me in to tries into 2 Parts. With PLV it looks like, the single layers are not glue together. With 100% infill perhaps no problem. But with 60% even the walls are not sticking very well. Is this only a problem of temperature? Can I generally say, that with higher temp, the layers will stick better together? Or should I print faster that the lower layer is still "warm"? Thanks PS: With ABS there was a split in a layer. Perhaps only bad luck. :evil: But ABS looks g
  8. I tried ABS. It shrinks the pins little to 5.6 (instead 5.8). But still impossible for me. The Screwless Cube will perhaps better work. Yes. It's pins do have a long good slit that looks springy
  9. If you must print cylinder it's lite tricky. You must experimaent with the settings and see the slicer result in Cura (without printing it). Only view the 3D Model how it "will" print it. Change you nozle size to 0.2 and low Shell size. This will make fill the inner side and not only the 2 walls.
  10. Hallo, in the Slicer you can set the infil in %. That the inside is not solid, is normal. It saves material. But you can set the infill to 100% if you like. I see a different Problem. Your belts are not tighten. Your infill will not touch the one side and go over the wall of the other side. Tighten all belts will fix this. The first and last 1-2 Layer must be solid.
  11. Hallo, i like to print this Hear Heart: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24675 My problem is, that the pins will not fit in the center. I loaded the STL file in 3D Cad and measured the holes and pin diameter. The Holes are 4.8mm The pin is 5.8mm I can not clanch the pins 1mm. Not even 0.2mm. Nobody in the forum mentioned, that the pins will not fit. The slit in the middle will only go to the broadest position. It's physical impossible the clanch at this position. What I do make wrong? I use hard PLA. It's hard like ABS. I think, the pin must be soft and springy. Thanks
  12. To the old problem. In Slic3r you must set the E Steps manual by change the start G-Code. And the temp was to high. A heavy string is comming out without preasure from feeder. And perhaps there is a setting to give each layer a min time to cool down. So the Head will slow down in the top. This option is not always good. Here, its bad.
  13. Hi, try to buy different filament. In my build shipment shiped filament was realy poor in constant diameter. Perhaps not a single problem.
  14. After assembly I started Cura and updated the firmware. That was a fault. The cure default Merlin firmware ist at baud 220000. I can't get ReplicatorG working because wrong port speed. Even Firmware update was not working with ReplicatorG. My solution was to use custom firmware update from cura and select hex loaded with ReplicatorG. After that I must change baud rate in cura to normal 115k and now the firmware is working with cura and ReplicatorG.
  15. Hallo, in gcode there are lines of code to set the temperature. Some/all slicers (not cura) will input this line with values from preferences. So after start the heater will change temp.
  16. Hallo, how to solve the Seam and Overhang Problems in last picture? I got such Seam every time the nozzle stops to move z-Axis. And the Overhang is a problem with the fan (need better fan cooling)? The rest of the surface looks good for the temperature.
  17. Hallo, I do have only 2 days experience. But perhaps your E Steps are not entered right? In the first run Wizzard you can calculate your right value. It looks like that too mutch material will come out. And try again lower temp. 170C° Perhaps your sensor is not working well. My was relly loose in the hole. Your feed problem is strange. Perhaps you are touching the lower (solidified) surface and this will blockade the nozzle. See "The extruder stops extruding" http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Troubleshooting
  18. I love the 3 colors view of infill.
  19. In Top of 3D View are buttons to change the view. Right is for G-Code. There you can see how the head will move with the generated g-code. If the g-code is right, there is only Firmware or hardware problems. No problem with Settings of slider (cura)
  20. Hallo, in top of the window, there are some buttons. There you can switch what to display. Press the left one, and ne gcode should be displayed.
  21. Hello, the gcode view of cura is very good. You can see each line and find bad pices, that will perhaps not work. (Hangovers and support material). I'm experimenting with newest slic3r slicer. It generates different support material. (less material waste). I found a way to show the gcode from Slic3r. I'ts amazing to see, how differnet the support material in slic3r is: You can see, that the support material will not work ^^ HowTo: Go in Slic3r settings->G-code and enable Verbose G-Code In Layer Change G-Code input: ";LAYER:660" (without quotes) Create g-code in slic3r and rename
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