gr5

A little more detail - 1) download STL file(s) from thingiverse. 2) open the file in cura 3) Slice it. Check the results in cura to make sure it looks correct (ALWAYS CHECK). Often part of the model won't slice at all. 4) Save - cura saves the result as a ".gcode" file. 5) Copy the gcode file to an SD card 6) Put the SD card in the um2go There's lots of sub steps. If you have used computers a lot and know how to download you should understand most of the sub steps.

@sgillespie - I notice now that the only reason you didn't see the layers in your image above is because you didn't hit the "slice" button.

Cura is here: https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

There are about 1 million models you can download from thingiverse.com. Or you can design your own model in CAD and save your model as an STL file. Then you need to slice the model. I recommend the latest version of Cura. Slicing converts the STL to gcode file and then you put the gcode file on the SD card to print it.

Okay maybe you just need to change "color scheme" on the ride side of your screen. - George

Well one option is to view the gcode in another viewer other than Cura - such as gcode.ws. Just drag and drop the gcode onto that website. But better would be to find "preview" mode. In your screen shot I see "prepare" and "monitor" but there should also be a "preview" somewhere. I'm still on Cura 4.0 - I'm not sure where that is on your version.

Be careful setting facet too high. Cura will slice all the triangles in the STL with a plane which gives you lots of lines segments. If there are too many line segments the gcodes may be as little as 0.1mm long or 0.01mm long and trying to print so many tiny movements will actually print very slow. Maybe even as slow as 1mm/sec.

Always look at your part in *PREVIEW* mode. Under that make sure "line type" is selected and make sure every box is checked. That will show you supports.

In your first photo - is that how you found the printer? Bed still at 220 but not printing? If so I'm thinking option 2 above - for some reason it crashed. If it didn't crash it should have turned off heat. Also is it possible that you pulled the SD card out of your computer before it finished copying the file? When you slice, save to hard drive and *then* copy to SD card. Then take the card out, put it back into the PC and check that the files are still identical (for example with winmerge - a great free utility).

I don't think upgrading cura is going to help. Let's put that aside. I see two possibilities: 1) The slicer isn't slicing your whole model. You can verify this by looking at your model in "preview" mode. At the top of the display. Then scroll through every layer and make sure it is printing where you think it should. If not then DON'T print it - it has to look correct (prints all layers) in preview mode or there is no point in actually printing. 2) Something might be wrong with your printer. I don't know the monoprice printers well but I would concentrate on the power module that converts house power into printer power (I assume 12V to 24V - something around that). Some of these power supplies will overload and shutdown but only for 1/4 second or so and then your printer reboots and when you come back it's happy and ready to print and doesn't realize it lost power part way through the print. One test for this is what does the display show when it stops. Does it say something like "print complete" or is it at the start screen when you first power up? Does it keep the bed hot (indicating the printer is in a crashed state of some sort)? Or did it act like the print actually finished properly?

Usually not. The one printed above had no support.

Some of the critical things below: line width matching nozzle width helps. slow speeds (40mm/sec) helps a lot. turning off jerk and accel control (or setting to highest reasonable values) helps a lot because it doesn't slow down as much on the corners causing blobby corners. "outer before inner" makes it so the inner wall isn't pushing out on the outer wall which helps also. dimensional accuracy profile - engineering settings - accuracy mode Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 35-40 (all speeds, except travel) Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3 Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclusive Combing Mode = off Outer before Inner Walls = Checked

Chip - know that with an olimex cable you should be able to connect to your S3 printers and access linux that way. This is a serial (on the printer end) to USB cable which can connect to linux/mac/pc that has "serial terminal" software that lets you use a console that talks to your S3. I don't have an S3 (just S5 and UM3) so I don't know 100% that this will work but I'm 90% sure it will. I sell these olimex cables in my store by the way for people in USA at thegr5store.com. If you are in Europe then it's easier to get them directly from the manufacturer. It sounds like UM disabled ssh in the newer versions of their firmware. This is unfortunate.

I think you got it right but not certain. If you place a tiny print into cura you should see the appropriate shadow around it. Maybe.

I was going to suggest the same 2 things that smithy said.

Those chinese nozzle might leak - the length of the hole in the nozzle may be too short and not have enough friction and thus leak too much. But stick with what you have for now. But you can get good quality nozzles from 3dsolex or e3dv6 (e3dv6 is in england). e3dv6 will be compatible with that olsson block kit you bought.

Oh. Well I recommend you install tinker firmware then as that lets you adjust the steps/mm. You can get it here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1 Download the Um2+ one (5th link from the bottom). After that you can just calibrate it yourself - very easy - just insert the filament part way into the bowden and use "move material" to move it exactly 100mm and measure with a ruler how far it moved. If for example it moved 10% too far then reduce the steps/mm on E axis by 10%. The tinker firmware is better than the ultimaker version of Marlin and has tons of very nice features like "continue failed print" and in your case ability to adjust steps/mm for all axes.

Did you make this model in sketchup - then the answer has to do with "normals" or saying which side of a surface is "inside" and which side is "outside". Skim this short article: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ If it's not made with sketchup you could try repairing the model with netfabb STL repair service. You have to create an account but it's a free web service. You could also mess around with the "mesh" repair features in cura. There are about 8 of them. You might actually want to turn them all off. Also look at this model in xray mode (preview mode in top center of cura, xray mode in option to the top left area). netfabb is your simpleast, fastest option but if this is a sketchup model it is incredibly easy to right click all the gray surfaces and "reverse faces".

The intent profiles are really just a way to group profiles. It isn't much of a feature. The bigger deal is that when the UM3 came out (and then S5 and then S3) the profiles concentrated more on speed and beauty instead of accuracy. There is a new profile for the S5/S3 that concentrates more on accuracy than speed. If you have a UM2 you don't need this as the profile for UM2 was accurate already. If you have a UM3 then let me know and I'll tell you what settings to change to sacrifice beauty at the gain of accuracy (for mechanical things that need to fit perfectly).

Well all the nozzles leak if you aren't printing but the nozzle is hot. If you print something, it's fine.

Also print one of these: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 And stop letting the printer load and unload filament. Just slide it in and out using wedgebot.

Sorry man! So many issues. You didn't have to cut/solder the wires but oh well. There is a clip you bend a little and then the connector slides off. Anyway... First and foremost load the firmware. The newer stepper/gearbox has a different steps/mm. if you *did* load the new firmware and it's still loading the filament too far (or too fast) then on the printer do a "FACTORY RESET" which will set everything (including steps/mm) to default. But hopefully you won't have to do that as if you do then you have to do some other unnecessary things (it will guide you). You did not need to modify your printer. You could have just removed the bowden on both ends to get the filament out. The ball of filament at the end could have been heated up with a heat gun (and the nozzle). The UM2 (non plus) comes with a 0.4mm nozzle. But I love the other nozzles and use all 4 sizes. The 0.8mm nozzle prints 4X faster - particularly useful for parts larger than my fist. The 0.25 prints stunning accuracy - particularly useful for parts smaller than a grape. Just make sure the "line width" matches the nozzle size (which cura are you using - cura 14.X or 15.X is fine - if you are happy with cura 14.X then you'll hate cura 4.X but in those older cura it's called nozzle size I think).

Maybe a screenshot would help?

I learned a few years ago not to create or use profiles. Instead I do something else just as good - I do "file" "save..." and it saves the "project" which contains the STL file, the profile and ALL CHANGES to the profile. Also if the STL file(s) were moved, rotated, etc that is also saved. Everything. Even if you delete the STL file the profile has a copy. I find this to be a handy way to store "custom profiles". I'm not really creating profiles - I'm saving all the overrides to an existing profile. My friends who create profiles have all kinds of headaches so I've learned to stay away from custom profiles. But I have some friends who *do* use them so I'll ask them.

STL files contain only triangles. No curves. So when a slicer slices a layer it finds the intersection of a plane with these triangles and ends up with a lot of lines. No curves. So cura creates no curves. No splines. So good news for you I guess. I have completely rewritten the path planner for redeem (open source motion controller - runs on beagle bone black) so I'm very familiar with these. I've also looked at repetier host (open source - arduino hardware) and Marlin (open source - also arduino). I'm familiar with all these controllers. One key thing is understanding the concept of what ALL of these path planners call "jerk" but is not jerk. It's "maximum instantaneous change in magnitude of motion". It's in mm/sec (or meters/sec in redeem). This sets the max junction speed. So for example if you are making tiny angle changes while printing a circle you can pass through the junctions (point at the end of each G0 or G1) at a high speed - maybe 100mm/sec. But if there is a 90 degree corner you have to slow down to 14mm/sec at the junction (assuming jerk is 20mm/sec). This is because if the head is moving 14mm in and out of the junction the change is the hypotenous or sqrt(14^2+14^2)=20 Another key concept is the "backwards planner". The arduino can only plan about 16 moves ahead (beagle bone black can do about 256 moves ahead). So you have to be able to stop. If you were moving at 300mm/sec on the final move which is say only 1mm long and then you stop, you will have a problem (skipped steps). So instead the planner makes sure you can always stop with the known next 16 steps (or so - depends how many steps are loaded into the planner at any given moment). Let me know if you have any questions.