gr5

You know you have reached zen-expert status when you start to actually enjoy menial work like sanding. 🥰 I know some guys who grind telescope mirrors as a hobby and they just LOVE sliding two pieces of glass across each other to make a nice telescope mirror. It puts them in a calm state. Some people like to sit in the sauna or go fishing. Other's get a similar satisfaction from sanding their 3d prints. 🙂

This is severe underextrusion. This is less than 50% extrusion. So you get droplets of filament coming out of the nozzle followed by an air gap and then the next "post" grabs the next droplet. I'm going to guess the problem is that cura thinks you have 3mm filament when in reality you are using 1.75mm filament. Are you using a 1.75mm filament printer?

@CarloK - I think he was successful. I think he's all set. But your post should be useful to future people hopefully.

Good stuff! 1) Be very careful when modifying json files. If you get one semicolon out of place the printer can fail during boot and never get far enough to launch sshd. So it's basically bricked. But you can still get into the root account through a serial terminal using the olimex cable. So I strongly recommend you spend the $10/10 euros or so and just get the thing so you have it just in case. It would suck having to wait a few days for it. In europe you can get it directly from them. In USA I sell it in my store: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/usb-serial-cable-f.html 2) Did you print in high accuracy mode when you did the test? I forget what the profile is called excactly but Cura has these high accuracy profiles now. 3) I wouldn't print a cube because of exactly what you said - the corners could be larger - so print an octogon or a cube with beveled corners. 4) It's probably best not to mess with steps/mm as these are probably much more accurate than you think. Any error probably has more to do with things like material, temperature, nozzle diameter, and a few dozen other cura settings.

You can check if the formatting is fine by putting a ufd file on there and see if the printer sees that (a sliced part meant for S5).

It should work although I've only done it through the network. Note that you will need to update first to 5.1.94 and DO NOT PRINT anything with that version and then update to the latest version.

I got it to work by unchecking "union overlapping volumes". Works perfectly. Yes - the normals are random. The STL file as an unordered list of traingles and there's no way to know which triangles are connected to which other ones other than they should have shared vertexes. Anyway each triangle has a normal which says which side of the triangle is "air" and which side is "solid". those seem to be random in you model. MATLAB isn't setting those. I could be wrong - matlab may be doing it right. I'm not certain but that is my guess as I don't normally have to mess around with the "mesh fixes". Anyway, just uncheck "union overlapping volumes" in mesh fixes (I might have changed other mesh fixes so here they all are):

Okay - now I see what you mean - if you had posted a photo like this a while ago it would be obvious but it was so far zoomed out and everything was gray that I didn't see the hole walls versus hole floor. It all looked gray in your photo. Something is seriously wrong with your model. I'll investigate some more but is there a way to output from MATLAB to 3mf model file instead of STL? Actually I'm not sure the problem is with the "normals". That would make sense but instead it might be that there are holes in the walls of the holes. I'll investigate further.

Did the people who told you "M600" know what kind of printer you have? Different printer firmwares may need different commands. I think maybe Ultimaker printers use "M25" to pause. Here is a pretty damn good reference to gcodes. Search for M25 which supposedly works on all Marlin variants (which is like 99% of printers in the world). M600 is another pause meant specificially for filament change evidently. I'm not sure that it's supported on Ultimakers but it certainly seems to be supported on Prusas. https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code For "layer number" go into "PREVIEW" mode in cura and on the right side is a scroll thing - slide that up and down and it shows every layer number. The plugin might be 0 based layers or 1 based layers and cura is 1 based. So it might pause 1 layer earlier than you expect. This plugin is supposed to pause at the *start* of the layer. Or you can insert gcodes by hand. Save the gcode file in cura. Then open it in a text editor like notepad (warning, some of these gcode files are quite large and take a good 20 seconds to open). Take a look at the gcode file - you can translate it with the link above. Search for "LAYER" and it tells you the layer number. You can insert any gcode you want wherever you want. Each gcode needs to be on a line by itself. Try adding a pause on the very first layer to see if it works as a test so you don't have to wait many minutes to know it will work. Or you can search for "Z" which is very rare in gcode files and you sill see the height in millimeters and you can decide where you want the pause that way. Or you can look at the "E" value which is how much filament is used so far in millimeters and insert a pause for example 2 meters into the print. Note that "E" goes back to zero occasionally as some printers don't like if E gets too big.

https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207907833-Differences-in-the-UM2-and-UM2-Hot-Ends-

¿Es windows? En Windows, la computadora emite un sonido cuando conecta el cable USB. ¿Hace el sonido? Luego verifique "administrador de dispositivos" y asegúrese de ver el puerto COM aparecer allí. Si el número del puerto com es > 10, a veces Cura nunca lo verá. Puede probar un cable USB diferente y una computadora diferente.

@Smithy

Nice gift coin 🙂. Well that's a lot of things to talk about. I think several of your issues related to the camera and printing over the network are very common. A lot of people are happier if they use wired network instead of wireless - this reduces the network issues massively but not completely. Anytime anything related to the camera of cura connect or printing over the network breaks, doing a "cura connect reset" on the front of the printer helps a lot! This fixes many many network related issues (but not permanently fixed). Personally I gave up and just use the USB drive to print on my S5. I recommend you tell your reseller about your network issues as UM doesn't get enough feedback about problems like this and they don't realize how many people are having network issues. The best way to feedback is through your reseller even though it's frustrating because you won't get much feedback from them. Regarding cura crashing or not launching - you need to figure out where the log file is so that the next time this happens you can grab a copy of that and post it. DO NOT POST it here - start a new topic please. You have too many items in this one topic. Unless a cura developer comes onto this topic, it would be better to start a new one - really you should have started at least 3 topics. Also look at the log file. It may provide a very useful hint as to the issue. I don't think Cura has ever crashed on me. Well maybe when I had millions of triangles in the STL - don't trust my memory. Cura crashing is more rare (than these S5 network issues) and probably easier to fix. Cura may be looking around on your network for a network drive or something unexpected like that which might be causeing the crash. unconnecting all network drives might help (or not). Again - look for hints in the log file. Oh - and welcome to the forum. I hope you stay for a while. 🙂

Or maybe you don't want any infill? If you have zero infill those holes will "fall" to the bottom of the print. I guess I don't understand what you want. It might also help if you post the project file - the project file will have your model and all your settings. Create it by doing from the cura menu "file" "save...". Post the project file on the forum please.

I don't see any problems - I don't see any horizontal surfaces. In the screen shot I see black holes where you want holes. Right? That's good, right? No horizontal walls. No walls of anykind except on the outside of the cube. Please zoom in some more. Please move the layer up and down a bit so that none of the part is colored gray. Use scroll wheel to zoom. Use right mouse to orbit. When you do this I think you will see better in 3 dimensions that the part is exactly what you want. Or maybe not? Use shift+right mouse to pan. Please zoom into the area you think is a problem and maybe you can add an arrow pointing to this "horizontal surface" that I don't see. Note that there are many features under "mesh fixes" plus there is a plugin that I strongly recommend. Sometimes these fill in holes that you don't want filled in but it looks to me that it is printing it perfectly? infill Could you explain why you want voids *inside* the part? Will anyone be able to see these? Are you planning to use transparent filament? I don't understand about these voids if they are invisible then what is their function?

Please include a screen capture of what you are referring to. I'm not sure if these are vertical, horizontal or tilted holes. I'm not sure what you mean by walls (straight, curved)? Please include a screen shot in "PREVIEW" mode (near top of cura) and set "color scheme" just below that to "line type".

I actually dried a spool just like that at 70C overnight last night and it looks fine. UM clear nylon.

I just contacted @V3DPrinting privately and asked him to do a simple test. If his core fails my test then this is a problem 3dsolex discovered and fixed about a year ago. The problem was only on some cores. Hopefully we will know more soon.

lol. But you still use it, right @Smithy? What temp did you dry it at?

Almost certainly you are too *far* from the glass. Just print again and as it prints the first layer push up on the bed a bit with your finger (or down). If I'm right and the bed needs to go up closer to the nozzle just turn the 3 knobs CCW (as seen from below) about a half turn. Turn all 3 knobs the same amount so that it stays *level* and such that you only adjust the height. You will probably have to abort and start over but if you do this at the start of most prints you will get good at it. Also once it's level it tends to stay level for months or until you change a nozzle.

I like this attitude. My conclusion was that the bumps you see in cura gcode view are a gcode view bug and so are unlikely to line up with the same bumps on the printed model. If you can show 5 out of bumps line up *exactly* I'd start getting interested again. But the data I looked at where you circled some line segments - that was definitely a bug in the gcode viewer and not in the gcode. I've seen these bumps before. They probably have more to do with printing speed and print speed changes and other settings in cura. I don't get the bumps so much - or if I do I hardly notice them as I am more printing functional parts. I know very many people get these and the universal solution is to print slower but I've seen many other people get rid of them but I've never tried any of the solutions so I forget what people did. So Marlin has a 16 line segment (or gcode) buffer. It looks ahead 16 moves. Having 16 very very short segments all within 1mm or even 5mm can really mess things up and slow the printer down to a crawl where it overextrudes on the slow down because the head still has pressure. But you only have 1 (one!) short move at the vertex and everyone has these - you can't break it up into triangles without having a few triangles come together at one point like this. On every model ever. But still - you seemed to have bumps in your print right near these vertices and that's all I can think of (that your marlin sucks, lol). Yes you ask a good question about "maximum resolution". Cura will eliminate extra moves and maybe it removed a point but I don't see how that would mess things up. Or maybe the other slicers did a better job at removing the extra line segment. One would have to look at the gcode carefully (I really recommend repetier host as you can see the 3d model and the gcodes side by side and when you highlight gcodes it highlights them in yellow in the 3D view). Still it would take a few hours to compare slicers. Maybe a better question is how is the quality of prints at the same print speed with different slicers and with actual photographs of the prints.

This. Do this. I recommend 70C and use the heated bed already part of the UM3. If you don't have access to a towel at work you can put it in a cardboard box. If it's really like al dente pasta it might take 48 hours but it's very easy to do. I'm not 100% sure you can recover it if it gets this bad as I've had it bad enough that it sizzles and spits but not so bad that it was as soft as you describe but it's worth a shot as it only takes a few minutes to toss the spool in a box or under a towel and forget about it. After drying it, it should last at least 24 hours if not 48 before needing to be dried again. Or just put it in a sealed 2 gallon zip lock (even without dessicant) within a few hours. However I partly agree with you - for a school, it's so much better to buy 3 um2go's than one um3.

Just use "generic pla" or "generic abs" or whatever material it is. It's up to the various manufacturers to create profiles so you could try to contact them. They are in China. Pretty much any profile designed for any PLA will work just as well with any other PLA. The material doesn't really need different profiles so much. Even TPLA prints great with generic PLA profile.

It's removed for UM profiles also. Sort of. It's built into the names of the profiles. Historically cura had a nozzle diameter and you could mess with it but it was MORE confusing because it would create the line width invisibly behind the scenes. If you had a nozzle of 0.4 and a wall of 1.0mm it would do 2 passes of 0.5mm line width and this was done INVISIBLY and caused all kinds of underextrusion and other problems. It would use a range of I think 66% to 150% of the nozzle size as the line width. This is cura version 15.X and older. I think the current version is a huge improvement in reduced confusion. I think you just tell people "there is no such parameter in cura as nozzle size". Because even though there is such a parameter, it doesn't really do anything. It's called "line width". If you simply changed the name from "line width" to "nozzle size" now there is more confusion again because it's not the nozzle size - you can print a 1mm line width with a 0.4mm nozzle if you have a powerful enough feeder. Every slicer is different. I think there are other slicers out there that don't have a "nozzle size" parameter.

I don't know the answer but you might want to print very short cubes and test out the ironing features (search for "iron" in the search box). And maybe read about ironing. The guy who invented and perfected it is neotko. He has recommendations that you might not predict - for example he likes to extrude ever so slightly (like 10%?) while ironing. neotko sells things professionally like custom room key chains for hotels which are very flat and benefit greatly from ironing. His prints have amazingly smooth top layers. I don't think he prints ABS much. By the way, why are you printing ABS anyway? It's smelly, it's no stronger than PLA (although ABS is slightly more flexible, you can get that kind of toughness (flexibility) from TPLA or other materials). If it's higher temp you want, consider ngen or PET or PETG. nGen is pretty amazing stuff - as easy to print as PLA but significantly higher temp (pla gets soft areound 52C, nGen I think 80C if I remember right, ABS around 99C, Nylon will hold it's shape well above 100C (around 120C I think).