gr5

Yes, this is a known bug in cura 5.4. Definitely go back to cura 5.3 for now. Although I think there is a hack if you mess with maximum resolution setting you can get it to slice properly. Initially try 0.5mm. I'm not sure if you need smaller values or larger values to fix the slicing bug. Should be fixed in the next version.

I think the lower support was in some strange way supposed to support the upper support. If they weren't right above each other I think there would have been zero support in the lower area. If that makes some kind of weird sense.

By the way it has nothing to do with Cura and more to do with the nature of intermittent (randomly occuring) problems.

Did you go to the suggested web page to see what it said? http://ultimaker.com/ER15 Go there. The instructions there are very helpful. If you follow those instructions and it's definitely not the print core then try heating the core manually and if the temp is accurate for your room temperature (typically 20-25C) and if the heat won't rise, then in addition to the instructions above, try reseating the print head cable. You can search for video instructions on doing that at fbrc8.com support. Or come back to the forum with an update of what you tried so far.

Camera is still available in 8.X but you need to turn off the firewall. There is a firewall feature on the printer but it blocks camera feed. Could that be it? Also the way you see the camera *might* be different. Instead of using that 8080 URL, go to the printer from within cura and there is this blue circle with a camera icon in it. Click that to see the camera "live" (one image very 10 seconds or so?).

Did you upgrade firmware recently? I know some features were removed with version 8.X, but I don't see anything in the release notes about the camera feed. Can you get to the computer's web page at all? The camera used to be on port 8080 (instead of the default html page of 80). Maybe your network has that port blocked? 502 is not that common of an error. I'm wondering if you are going through a proxy server or if the error comes directly from the printer. I would hit the F12 key in your browser and then go to the network tab and then do and F5 (refresh page) and click the line that gets the 502 and look at the headers. Often the headers have MUCH more information. I would also turn off the printer to see if you get a different error. If you get 502 with the printer on and 504 (or other #) with the printer off then the problem is probably with the printer and not your network.

Versioning used to be by year and month. So version 15.6.X came out in June of 2015. Original version of Cura was by David aka Daid who Ultimaker later hired so he could work on it full time. One of Daid's requirements was that it would stay open source and UM was fine with that. After many years of Daid improving Cura as an employee of UM, it was decided to scrap the whole thing (mostly) and rewrite it from scratch. The GUI for sure. I think possibly the "engine" portion - the part that actually slices - might have been kept. Not sure. Anyway the first version with the entirely new GUI was Cura 2.0. It wasn't very good. By 3.0 it was probably better than version 15. Version 15.X still works quite well for printers with Marlin (99% of printers out there but falling fast with klipper and others) and often gives better results for certain parts on (for example) an Ultimaker 2. For dual material prints on an Ultimaker 3/S3/S5/S7, don't use cura 15!

The post processor runs *after* the "gcode" file is created. If the post processor isn't specifically written to work also with TFT files then it won't work.

Why are you using such an old version of Cura? Isn't that from quite a few years ago?

Oh! @ahoeben might be able to help you with your build error. @ahoeben see top post.

There are several helpful people who have built Cura. I guess I'd direct message nallath. He can be extremely helpful at times. Or you can try posting in github issues. That's more meant for bugs but this is sort of a cura issue. Or you might be able to direct message people on github. I'm not sure how to tell the developers from the other people - I guess by if they have contributed code. Nallath I'm sure is very busy and doesn't see every message directed his way but a direct message through this forum might work. https://github.com/ultimaker/Cura/issues There are people triaging these that may hide your issue, or may send it to someone helpful.

Oder Sie können Pins.h aktualisieren und die Firmware neu erstellen. Viele machen das so.

That's severe underextrusion. Which is rare on the S5. Did you mess with speed or temperature? The most common issue is probably the front fan. Check that the front fan (not the side fans) is spinning WHEN IT IS UNDEREXTRUDING. This printer looks old so that's my guess. Then I'd try a new print core. And finally I'd test the feeder - get the filament only partially in the bowden - say half way - but definitely not in the print head. Then use the MOVE command (middle menu on left then top left button, then ... button) and fight the feeder by using your other hand to pull down on the filament and fight it until it slips. Then lift a weight and estimate how much force is needed or grip a weight to the filament. 5 pounds is borderline failing 10 pounds is a pass 15 pounds is typical And did you mess with the profile? Especially line width, print speed, layer height, flow, temperature. Actually messing with 30 different parameters can each cause underextrusion. Report back on these 4 issues/tests.

I'd avoid 5.4. It has other issues that can wreck your prints. Clearing cura: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013007080-How-can-I-completely-reset-my-Ultimaker-Cura-installation-

@burtoogle has built Cura so maybe he can help. Although he has been pretty quiet on this forum the last 2 years. @nallath?

Printer (machine) settings are complicated as they aren't normally really shown in Cura and they come from multiple files through an inheritance method where one file inherits some properties from another file and some are overridden and so on. But there is a nice plugin to see what are the actual settings. In the top right of cura click "marketplace" then make sure (next to search) it is searching for "plugins" and not materials. Look for "Printer settings". It adds more settings to be able to look at.

Here's an old list - this is my complete list of causes for underextrusion on UM3. Maybe you can eliminate many of them immediately. Some require tests. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION ON UM3 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. Note that your "print speed" may be 40mm/sec but it may be printing infill at 80mm/sec so CHECK ALL SPEEDS. 2) Line Width larger than nozzle. In cura 3.X search in settings for all line widths. If any of them are larger than the nozzle diameter this can cause underextrusion. There are 8 of these in cura 3.2.1. 3) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 4) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 5) Bad core. Try a different core. It could be clogged, or something more complex like the temp sensor in the core. 5a) clogged nozzle - the number one most suspected problem of course. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) is the cure - from the menu do a few cold pulls. The result should be filament that is the exact shape of the interior of the nozzle including the tiny passage to the tip of the nozzle. If it doesn't look like that you need to pull at a colder temperature. You can do it manually instead of through the menu if it's not working right but learn through the menu initially. 95C is roughly the correct "cold" temperature for PLA. Higher temps for other filaments. Simpler cold pull (3dsolex cores only - doesn't work on ultimaker cores because you can't remove the nozzle): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 5b) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 6) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. You want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. You usually want the tension in the center. If the white marker isn't in the center, make sure the adjustment screw actually moves the marker. If not then someone put the feeder back together wrong. 7) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 😎 Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 8b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the wedgebot (link below) helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 9) Extruder mis calibrated. Maybe you changed equipment or a wire fell off. Try commanding the filament to move exactly 100mm and then measureing with a ruler that it moved 100mm within 10% accuracy. If not adjust the steps/mm (this is done by editing a json file on the UM3). 10) Z axis steps/mm. it's easier than you might think to double or half the Z axis movement as there is a jumper on the circuit board that can be added or removed. If the Z axis is moving 2X you will get 50% underextrusion. Your parts will also be 2X as tall. 11) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. Similar to 8b above - use the wedgebot to feel how much friction there is in the bowden. 12) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably insert filament that has the pattern from the feeder and fight the movement by applying 2kg force on both ends at the same time and then seeing how much harder you have to push it on top of 1kg force. UM2 feeders can push with 5kg force. UM3 can push quite a bit more. 5kg is plenty. 13) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. This shouldn't be a problem on the UM3 which has very good quality control but try a different core. 14) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 15) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip. The solution from Ultimaker for the um2 is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. This doesn't seem to be a problem on UM3 even though it's the exact same circuitry but they lowered the current in the firmware. But it's worth considering if air temp is 30C or hotter. It would probably happen only after printing for a while (air heats up slowly under the printer). 16) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the door of the head. You can hear it come on when cores get above 40C. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 17) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm core and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 18) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3). 19) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 20) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 21) Filament tangle - the end of the filament can get tucked under a loop on the spool and this tangle can propagate from then forever to the end of the spool until you fix it. It will cause many many jam ups and slow then halt extrusion. Repeatedly. The fix is to remove the filament from the printer, unroll a few meters and respool and put back on the printer. Never let go of the end of the filament spool until it's in the bowden. =======

It could possibly be the feeder. For example if you ever print with glowfill or CF fill on the UM3 you will grind down the gnurling on the feeder so that the little pyramids are now smooth. Then you can indeed grind up the filament. But also it could be in the hot end keeping the filament from moving and then you still get grinding at the feeder. So the grinding doesn't tell you a ton except that something is wrong in the hot or cold end. Did I mention the front fan? Your description sounds exactly like a bad front fan. Did you check the front fan while it is underextruding?

Ooh - there is actually a work around for this bug in 5.4. You mess with the setting "maximum resolution". I'm not sure if you make it bigger or smaller (I think bigger) so try both but I think 0.5 is supposed to be a good number. That's what it is set to in the S5 profiles and that is what is used the most to test cura and probably why this bug was not found easily by Ultimaker QA.

You have a track pad? I think your only option is zoom in/zoom out which is + and - keys. "=" key also works as zoom out. You might have to click once on the preview area. What you want it usually called "pan". with a mouse, to pan you click and drag middle mouse button OR you shift click and drag right mosue button. ALSO! Some windows track pads allow you to do right click drag. To left click drag you tap twice but on the second tap you start dragging. But for right click dragging you do the same thing but with 2 fingers. Do that with also the shift key down and pan might work. You probably have to enable "gestures" in windows before this works. Search for "gestures" after clicking the windows key. Also you can "orbit" with the arrow keys. You probably already discovered this. Also with CTRL/+ and - you can go up and down the layers to see each layer.

You should. Most people are fine with it but it has this weird bug where some layers have no outer skin but do have inner skin. Unless you need a specific feature of 5.4, then use 5.3 for now.

So analyzing your speeds - assuming you have an AA 0.4mm nozzle: 50mm/sec X .15mm layer height X 0.4mm nozzle gives you 3 cubic mm/sec. That's a SLOW volume for an S5. You should be able to print 5 no problem. On rare occasions I've pushed things and printed at 18 mm^3/sec with very little underextrusion although I think that was a .6 nozzle maybe. Which can print double the flow. So something indeed seems to be a problem. First of all there is a bug in 5.4 where it doesn't print the surface sometimes for certain models. 90% of models are fine but if you have a certain geometry then it will happen consistenly with you. If you zoom in on the part in PREVIEW mode you can see that it doesn't print the outer wall AT ALL occasonally and it shows up as very thin yellow lines showing through the red exterior. Make sure you have the PREVIEW color scheme set to "line type". Walls should be red everywhere but if you see yellow inner layers then you hit the bug. More likely something is wrong with your printer. I'd check the feeder first as it's easy to do - although not with a material station. You need to grab the filament below the feeder and fight the feeder. A good feeder can pull 15 pounds. Even 10 pounds is okay. Yours probably can't even pull 5 pounds if it's the feeder. It's probably not the feeder. Also make sure the feeder tension is on the middle setting for TPLA. Half way through the little window in the feeder. I'd replace the print core. Many things can go wrong (the sensor, the inside of the nozzle can have build up, issues with the internal teflon, and more). Just swap it with another print core. Your S5 should have come with two AA 0.4 print cores. Or just buy another one for a test. It's worth it to have a 3rd printcore just to diagnose your issue. Those are two very quick things to check for. Also I know you said you checked the *middle* fan but check it while the print is failing. The wires in the cable to the print head connector can get loose or other issues and it may start off spinning fine when you start printing but stop spinning when the print is failing.

When you set "the speed" to 80mm/sec or 50mm/sec that changes MANY speeds. When you change only the "print speed", most (all?) of the speeds change. I think the speed you were referring to was just the infill speed but most of your layers don't have much infill I think. For your part - based on the "look" of it I'm guessing you would be happer with something more accurate but not necessarily pretty. The settings you are using will reduce "ringing" but you will get a more accurate part and a faster print (typically - not always) if you use the engineering settings. I sliced a part similar to yours and it was only 20% slower with the engineering settings.

The above part should have very few retractions. I was expecting something more like this (photo below) which only prints tiny bits of plastic in between each retraction. I could be wrong as I can't see portions of your part but I don't think retractions are related for this part. What is the 15mm thing you refer to? Do you mean ".15mm" layer height? What is the layer height for these prints?

I know someone who already lost 500 euros in filament cost alone (not to mention wasted printing time, delayed time getting prints) because of this bug.