gr5

I believe the new active leveling only takes 4 points on the glass (plus 2 with the second core). So I don't think it will take care of warped glass. Just non-level glass. I was able to bend my aluminum which corrected for any bend in the glass. Although actually most of the error was in the aluminum in the first place but I think it's worth a shot. It only took one minute.

Regarding changing cores - I believe you have to wait until the temperature is below a certain temperature (40C? Also where the fan stops) before changing cores if you don't want that error message but if you get it don't worry - just power cycle the printer. Regarding the layer shifting - that means you have play somewhere. It happens when the pattern of the print changes which implies it is printing clockwise versus clockwise at those same locations and the play (looseness) aka backlash is causing these layers to stick out. Or in. I'd start by checking for loose things in your gantry to see what is loose. Check the 4 sliding blocks for cracks. Cracks aren't serious but are they so wide that the rods can slip forward/back/side to side? Check for nozzle being loose or other parts being loose. With the nozzle cold push on the nozzle hard enough to *almost* but not quite move the head. Push it in all 4 directions. Does it move around? Also look at the belts - they should auto-tighten but maybe one is loose? It has to be VERY loose to see the kind of play you see. Like floppy loose. There is a very small chance it is a temperature issue - if the nozzle is oscillating slowly in temperature by more than 5C you can also get this pattern because hotter nozzles extrude more. This is easy to test during the print - just watch the nozzle temperature readings from the TUNE menu while it's printing. This is unlikely because your part looks too large for an oscillation to be that slow.

Basically it uses the accel settings. If I remember right, Amax is kind of a bug fix if Marlin miscalculates or panics and isn't supposed to be used. It should be higher than the default accel settings. I never quite understood that myself even after reading the code very carefully for many hours.

More info here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21641-help-with-printing-ninjaflex?page=last

I have printed "3mm" ninjaflex just fine. I wouldn't use the um2 old black feeder but all the other feeders work nicely (plus feeder, umo feeder, iroberti feeder). Many companies call ie "3mm filament" but in fact it is almost always 2.85 or 2.90mm filament. Even if it is 3mm you don't have to worry that the feeder is squeezing it into an ellipse and getting too tight for the bowden because ninjaflex just snaps right back into a perfect circle as soon is the feeder isn't compressing it.

So maybe it is a cop out but I really don't know how to do this test in a way that I would trust the results. And I wouldn't trust anyone else's test very much.

Well it's just so hard to say what's the best one can do. Even if you restrict to unmodified UM3 and only the 0.4mm nozzle (there will be 0.25mm nozzles in the future) then there is still just a huge amount of variability. With prints that look like crap and prints that look great. If anyone even tries to do this I will not believe they came even close to the quality that can be achieved. It's just too complicated for anyone to do where I would trust the results of the test. So I guess my point is even if someone did this test it would be worthless. SLA printers have their own quirks. You can't print something with a flat overhang like a "chair" print standing on it's 4 legs. It doesn't "bridge" well. So they always tilt things like that. FDM printers bridge quite well but don't tilt well (severe overhangs are tougher I think on FDM). SLA printers use the same material for support and have lots of support attachment points which are "ugly". UM3 has dissolvable support. In general SLA is going to give you better resolution and parts will look better. But I can make a print better and with equal resolution than an SLA print if I use a .1mm nozzle (I've done it). Then again there are SLA printers that go below .1mm resolution at least in X,Y. People on this forum will say things like "ultimaker gray filament sucks - I get much better quality with color XXXXX" and they post lots of pictures and analysis and I'm almost convinced until someone else does the same analysis and says "gray is the best - it's white that sucks" and then I find that the guy who like white so much was printing 20C cooler and so on. It is just too damn complicated to do a good scientific comparison. But you can do a less scientific comparison by walking around a show and taking free samples and comparing the printers. I think if you do that you will agree that SLA has higher quality looking prints. But there are many downsides to SLA (price of resin, lack of colors, lack of materials, dangerous chemicals, brittle parts and more).

Two different issues. neotko posted something about removing the rest. But I'm not sure about this "concertining". That shouldn't be possible. The bowden should restrain it from twisting like that so I'm confused. Is the bowden all the way down into the white teflon part?

Maybe measure the part height before removing the PVA just to test your Z accuracy. Actually keep the water below 50C. PLA softens around 55C (13:29 in video). 75C bed for PLA causes other "warping" issues (but only on the bottom 2mm or so). Stick to 60C. The Ropy problem should have been fixed by fixing leveling instead of using temperature. Again - in the video. I know the video is long but I spent many hours trying to keep on topic and cutting out a second here and there and keeping the video as short as possible and still interesting. There's just a lot of details to go over to understand not just "how" but "why".

More details here: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ In particular look at the graph part way down the page. You can easily get 30% underextrusion when printing near the limit of what the feeder can do.

Some error might be because the base of the pyramids in the gnurled sleeve are the radius you should be measuring. Or somewhere between the base and the peaks of the pyramids. More error (if measured while printing) is because the filament slips a bit. The holes that those pyramids make on the gnurled sleeve are not square but elongated. Illuminarti was testing this and noticed that the faster you print, the higher the pressure, the longer those holes get until they get so long that each hole reaches the next hole and at that point the filament gets ground up and the print fails.

Oh right. Plus upgrade. Definitely have to upgrade firmware for that to work!

Did you do a factory reset? It's an option in the menu system somewhere. It resets the eeprom settings that s3d may have modified.

I think it's a segmentation pattern common on delta printers. More info here: http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/631/how-are-delta-movements-calculated

Yes. My thoughts also but @toddwallace takes days to answer simple questions. He'll get there eventually. I'd try factory reset and if that doesn't do it then reload firmware. steps/mm could be off (if so parts will be stretched out in Y) - could be wrong firmware. Lots of possibilities - most of them easy to diagnose and fix.

@LePaul I think you should downgrade your marlin for now. I only upgrade marlin maybe once per year no matter how many versions come out in between. But that's mostly laziness (even though it only takes 5 minutes).

The height issue is much more serious. First check cura as that is more likely the issue. Sometimes cura rescales objects. Click on the object and choose the "scale" icon in upper left and make sure it is scaling to 1X or 100% in all 3 axes. Also look at the height - I believe in that mode it shows the height of the object in mm. Another possibility is that the part is sunk into the glass. This is a great feature but people don't realize that when they do another print late the feature is still turned on. And thirdly after the gcode is generated open it in a text editor and skip to the bottom and search upward for " Z" (space Z) a few times to see the last layer height commanded that printed also. In mm. This should be equal to the height. If all that is correct then something is wrong with your machine. steps/mm is off or something. Contact your reseller. Is there other evidence that the Z axis didn't move for some layers - if so they will stick out like a hat brim (but not so much).

Two unrelated problems. The "stick to bed" issue is most likely that you need to level a little closer. It's safe to just turn the 3 bed screws 1/4 turn CCW. More info in this video:

@fbrc8-erin - you have so many printers it takes up more space than some of your posts! :) lol You could say "I have every UM printer" but I guess this way it's more impressive!

Well if it grinds when it is homing (which should be left rear corner but maybe it's moving the wrong way) then it's one set of possible problems. If it homes the wrong direction it's another set of possible problems. And if it doesn't grind until *after* it homes then it's a 3rd set of possible problems (this third set means either you have the wrong firmware or you need to do a factory reset which takes about 10 seconds to do - just choose it on the menu). In the 3rd case you could also have the wrong firmware - for example um2 firmware for a um2go would cause this. Maybe post a 10 second video taken from a phone camera (with sound) would help a lot!

@tinkergnome - any insights? I haven't used the materials.txt feature. After you load them is there some save command somewhere you have to do to write to eeprom? Or could it be that some materials.txt files have something that won't write to the eeprom? Or they have too much information? (I know not that much memory is reserved for this). @m42e and @LePaul please post the entire contents of your materials.txt file in case there is a character in there or length of string that is causing the problem (maybe materials have to be less than 10 characters long for example). And note that when you upgrade your firmware - some firmware versions use different locations of the eeprom differently and sometimes your settings get clobbered until you resave or do a factory reset and then re-enter settings.

Wait - I think we are talking about different kinds of "grinding". I think a video would have helped. Everyone replying to you is talking about where the head hits one side of the printer and makes a loud enough noise that everyone in the house comes running and says is "everything okay?". Loud enough that the first time it happens you just assume the printer is destroyed beyond repair (but it's fine). Instead I think you are talking about the feeder grinding maybe? Please clarify.

Well 3dsolex came out with 2 types of these nozzles (ruby and saphire) and 3dverkstan came out with the olsson ruby at the same time. Both companies have been working on this for a year independently. 3dsolex announced theirs a few weeks before 3dverkstan. 3dsolex asked me to remove them from my store in respect of Anders. I don't understand why exactly but I'm guessing the 3dsolex version will be back in my store within a few weeks. I really don't know - it's up to 3dsolex.

>When I change infill type to cubic or any other type of infill I see the infill in layer view as I would expect. Is that a typo? >What I haven't tested yet is whether a print is actually using cubic subdivision infill and it's just not showing up in Cura, That test would be a waste of time. If it isn't showing up in layer view it isn't happening. Hopefully someone else might have some ideas.