gr5

@JUSS10 post a photo of your issues.

Another reason to switch: Continue failed print! What an amazing feature! Also it's so easy to do. Afterwards you will be wondering why you waited so long.

The UM2 is comparable! And it's much cheaper than the UM3. Also it is comparable at twice the printing speed. Zortrax is very good at printing ABS (but slow). UM2 is very good at printing PLA. Check out the prints here made by ultimaker printers: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/1467-post-your-latest-print?page=160#unread I know - it's 160 pages. Well look at them for 10 mintues at least. There are some amazing prints in there!

======== heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor) You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power): Firmware Version 14.09 - does not have the feature 14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds 14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds) 15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds) It's not a loose connection. Or if it *is* it's a loose connection to the nozzle heater. Usually it's just a wimpy heater. UM2 used to ship with 25W heater and there was heavy variation so some heaters were only 20 or 22W. Now they all ship with 35W. What country are you in Lance? Please update your profile. You can get cheap but excellent quality heaters from my store if you are in USA (thegr5store.com) or from 3dsolex.com. Sometimes the cause is too much wind/fan blowing on the nozzle. Sometimes it's because you switched to an Olsson block without switching heaters and now the fan shroud is touching the Olsson block where it's hard to see. If so try raising the nozzle by tightening the round nut - more info about there here:

80C bed will be a problem some day. It will cause an inward warping like look near the bottom. Look at the 5th picture down on the left side of this - that's caused by bed too hot: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Unless of course this is maybe ABS????

I'd stick with latest 15.X version. I assume you don't have an Ultimaker printer - just the printrbot. Have you tried other nozzle sizes on your printrbot by the way? .6 prints real fast and .25 prints real fine.

So what did you learn @Edel?

Bummer, I wish I knew, care to share your store's web link? Um. Are you kidding? You know that when something ends with ".com" it's probably a web link right?

And consider getting the meduza upgrade also! That works as well as the "plus" feeder when combined with iRoberti feeder as far as I'm concerned: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/meduza-um2-belt-geared-feeder-improved If you want me to ship you a kit from USA let me know - it will save you time and money versus buying all the individual parts yourself. My store won't ship to UK but I'll make an exception for this kit since it isn't offered by 3dsolex yet (he has all the parts but is too busy doing other stuff right now).

cura 15.X does this just fine. You can import a profile from a gcode file (cura 15.X stores a comment at the bottom of the file with all the settings).

Treating ABS is easy - acetone vapor. Treating PLA is not easy. You should do some small (1cm) parts and test treatment first. Acetone does pretty much nothing to PLA but if you use PLA/PHA from colorfabb and completely immerse it for 30 seconds it looks pretty good. There are many solvents that dissolve PLA but they change it chemically and parts can break/split/discolor and do everything you do want and nothing that you do want typically. There are many other materials that you can print but I don't know if and what chemicals can smooth them: ngen is a great material - easy to print like pla. Easier than ABS. I have no idea about solvents. XT is very transparent. I've seen impressive results but you have to print slow and overextrude a bit (set flow high - 130%? Not sure - experiment). Again - no idea about solvents. Most solvents are likely to make it go from transparent to milky. Which I suppose is just what you want. Keep in mind that printing the top of a cylinder works pretty well - not as well as printing the bottom on glass - but not too bad either. The printer "bridges" the gap across the top of the cylinder. This works well with most materials (nylon, pla, abs, ngen, xt) but not well with others (PVA doesn't bridge well).

Ultimaker printers have Marlin firmware which doesn't let the extruder move unless the nozzle is above a certain temperature (170C?). Make sure you are in reprap mode. I haven't tried cura 2.X with reprap mode so I'm not certain it works but I think it should. If not cura 15.X definitely works. You have to tell cura that it is *not* an UM2 but instead a generic reprap mode printer.

The log file shouldn't be covered by the NDA, right?

You never answered the question about how thick your bottom layer was in cura.

What reemaj3D says is true and might be the cause but in this case I think it is more likely your part is simply too thin. The walls need to be at least 2X of the line width. That was a screen shot of cura 2.3.1. You have to play around more with cura. There are features all over the place (left side of screen, right side, gears, menu system). It's good to learn your way around cura before using it to slice something.

If the problem is visible in layer view, please show it there. Note that it shows PVA brighter in layer view if that is selected and PLA brighter in layer view if *that* nozzle is seleccted.

Try exiting and restarting cura. It has weird bugs. Also use cura 2.3.1 but that's not much improved. Look at it in layer view before printing. Cura 2.3.1 is frustrating - I typically need a damn hour to slice something that will have support. Crazy. :( Hopefully it will get better some day. However I'm wondering if part of your problem might also be that you never did the "z offset" thing in the menu items? or if you did there was some solid pva on the end of the right nozzle such that you leveled it too high. If the nozzle is just .2mm too high the pva won't stick to the glass.

I don't think this will be a problem. It will be harder to remove (will stick much better) there but it should come out just fine. However you can turn the knob on the front left to move that corner up a bit which will tilt the opposite corner down. Also to keep the other areas the same turn the other 2 screws so that the bed moves down.

In USA you can get UM2 heaters at 25W, 35W, 40W, 50W in my store. And much cheaper than $57. Wow - I didn't realize how expensive some people sell them for. thegr5store.com.

Or maybe you accidentaly put um2go firmware on a um2. What printer do you have. Can you provide a 10 second video of the issue?

What country are you in? If you live somewhere where everyone lives in a home with glass windows then there should be glass shops nearby that can make this plate for about the cost of 2 cups of coffee. They'll even grind the edges smooth. The plate form ultimaker is *not* pyrex (it should be) but instead is tempered but you don't need tempered glass. Just ordinary window glass (but very thick glass) is fine. And inexpensive.

Probably these are very very thin. To verify that's the problem, try setting the line width to say 0.1mm (not layer height - line width). If now it prints everything then that was the problem. If it still won't print then maybe your parts are not solid which is a common problem if you use sketchup. xray view shows problems with non-solids e.g. a wall floating in air with no thickness - as red. But if these are very thin objects as I suspect then... why? They look like rocks - why can't you let cura decide if it should be hollow inside - why does the model have dual walls?

I know some people who had a curved UM3 aluminum plate. They pushed and shoved it until it seemed straight (using a straight edge to check). They put the glass back on and it was much better.

The spool holder can take 100C I'm sure. I'm more worried about you melting all the PVA into a single donut shape.