gr5

Oh - a few more things - I strongly dont' recommend you go to ABS without first getting really good at PLA. PLA is much easier to print and once you get 100 prints under your belt you will probably be getting "perfect" prints every time. You will see then how frustrating switching to ABS is. And the reason settings aren't posted much in e-nable is because every printer type is different. 210C for the UM2 doesn't translate to 210C for a typical reprap. Plus 10 other details. Even on this forum people get a certain set of settings that work great for them and then they stick with it. Also even among um2 printers the temp sensors can vary by +/- 10C so 2 users might be 20C different (very rare - would be 1% chance but still). I know because I sell those temp sensors and I test every one at 260C and about 10% are off by 10C. And there are non-temp related issues as well - some UM2 printers inexplicably need 120% flow to print well and some don't. Etc.

Here it is adjusted for .15mm layers (I just multiplied byt .2/.15 or 1.33330: 26mm/sec at 200C 40mm/sec at 210C 53mm/sec at 225C 66mm/sec at 240C So it's important to be at 210C minimum. Colorfab tends to be less viscous and you can often print colorfab at lower temps. Or higher speeds.

These photos are great earaujo! I wish you posted those initially. Several comments: Your settings look fine - I would change the "bottom layer height" from .25 back to .3 as that is a better choice as you want this pretty thick to compensate for imperfect leveling and imperfect flatness of the glass and gantry structure that moves the head. But .25 is okay. also the fan comes on at full speed by 5mm but that's a little late for many parts (such as the fingers). I think I have mine set to 1mm which seems slow enough. If the fan comes on too fast the nozzle cools too much too fast and you get underextrusion for maybe 40 seconds on the layer where the fan comes on. But anyway these settings are not your problem. Also I noticed you are doing .15mm layers and 40mm/sec which works out to 2.4 cubic mm/sec. The printer (some printers anyway) can handle up to 10 mm^3/sec at 230C. The printers are all tested at 8 mm^3/sec in the factory. I try to stay under 5mm^3/sec so 2.4mm^3/sec should be no problem. Anyway you have intermittent underextrusion issues. I'm going to guess you have filament tangles or some issue with the filament feeding. I strongly recommend you put the filament on the floor - also check for where the end of the filament may have gotten tucked under another loop. If this is the case remove the filament from the printer and unwind enough until you can fix it and re-wind it back up - never let go of the end of the filament even if the house is on fire! Anyway also put the filament on the floor - this helps a lot: If putting the filament on the floor doesn't work the next thing is to check your temperature. Here are my recommended temperatures. Oh by the way - if you are hearing the "click" followed by underextrusion then: SLOW IT DOWN. Look for problems. Raise the temp maybe. At 190C PLA is like toothpaste and at 240C it is like honey. You get more control and better looking prints at the cooler temps but then you also have to slow it down. Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

If you have some threading or stringing you can aim the torch at that and they shrivel up and shrink and mostly disappear. If you print for example a horse and the belly was printed "in mid air" with no support and is all spaghetti ugly and sagging too much - you run it back and forth over that spot for a few seconds and then push up with your thumb and it is still ugly but now in the correct shape. That's about it - the thing I like about the tool is that it is so fast! I wish it could do everything - it just does a few things. But when you print say the eiffel tower with 500 strings it can clean those all up in seconds. You still need other tools like a sharp razor/knife and some small metal files to enlarge holes that aren't big enough for screws or parts that aren't quite sliding together.

Just make the support thicker. You need twice the nozzle width so make the support 0.85mm thick.

Regarding the 3dsolex kit. There is no braid or any kind of cable holder. Maybe IRobertI will design a cable guide for us some day. The bed can easily get to the same temp as the UM2 when the UM2 is at 100C. The UM2 sensor is near the edge which is a bit cooler which means the center of the bed in both cases can get to about 105C just fine which is good for ABS. The 3dsolex kit bed actually heats much faster than the um2 heated bed. Especially when going all the way to 100c. The temperature of the head is just as stable because it gets priority in the new firmware.

Every product made by 3dsolex has been mentioned by now on the forum I think. This um2go heated bed upgrade was the only thing not mentioned... until now. "swordriff" who owns 3dsolex and I ("gr5") both started selling those about a week ago. You can always go to 3dsolex once per month - there's usually something new there every month or two and only about 25 things to look through that are for sale. Swordriff is always coming up with new products to fill needs. Let him know what you think he should sell next - maybe plexiglass covers for UM2? dual printing kit? safety shutoffs? It's sometimes easy to get him to work on your own pet project.

Maybe the MOSFET that controls your heated bed gets stuck on and the bed reaches 100C? You could check bed temp with an IR temp sensor. Or just touch it. I can hold my finger on 60C glass for 10 seconds no problem. 100C - only maybe 1 second.

Maybe a 10 second video or so would help. Usually we see underextrusion due to extruder or Z movement issues and you see lots of stringy stuff. Maybe you removed that? It looks like you made an underextruded print and then melted it afterwards. I've never seen anything like this. Maybe it's just a bad photo? Is your bed at 60C? It looks like maybe your bed is at 100C.

White PLA is less viscous for some reason. This makes it tougher on overhangs but easier to print fast. You were probably just printing green and magenta too fast - those typically come out nicer than white. Also white is not the best color for fingers because it shows dirt well - gets into those layer-height-cracks after a month of use. Anyway PLA is more viscous at lower temps and less viscous at higher temps - like toothpaste at 190C and like honey at 240C. If you print fast you need to print hot. Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

Ah - nice. Okay I'm locking this thread - please post replies in the other thread.

Side view would be nice. Well it looks like you have "stringing" in the second photo but not so much in the rest. Usually lowering temp fixes this: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/2872-some-calibration-photographs But in general they tend to be very easy to clean up. But if you lower the temp you also need to slow down. Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

I hope you are printing at different scalings and left and right hands. Typically they want from 100% to 140%.

Actually I think the lower print looks pretty good. Didier I think it looks strange because he rotated it so the infill is horizontal but I'm sure it printed at an angle. The bottom print looks properly extruded or maybe slightly underextruded. The top print looks very strange like all the plastic melted and flowed together. The line widths are much different on the top one. Leveling must have been quite different on the 2 prints maybe? For example if you level nozzle too low (bed too high) there will be too much filament for the space to put it and if you level so that the nozzle is too high off the bed you will have air gaps like in the lower photo. What did you set your shell width to? It MUST be a multiple of your nozzle - so usually 0.8mm. If not you get things like the upper photo - but on every layer - not just the bottom layer.

I have printed about 7 enable hands now. I recommend brim feature to keep things sticking well to the bed while printing although then you have to cut it off after. But it's worth it I think. I recommend going .2mm layers as it still looks nice at .2mm layers and it prints faster but slowing down the head to about 40mm/sec. You don't want to go over about 5 cubic mm/sec (you can see this number by hovering over the speed or hovering over the layer height). The enable hand is close to the easiest model you will ever print. The trickiest parts are the fingers if you include the fingernail option as the overhang is pretty severe. For cleanup this is my favorite tool: http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-Pencil-Welding-Soldering-Lighter/dp/B007A9YSPW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1446666104&sr=8-5&keywords=butane+torch But make sure you also buy this: http://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Butane-Fuel-165gm/dp/B0176A4MKA/ref=pd_sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31B-z13uNcL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0HK207DWXQTXFV5YCHXK Total cost < $20.

This is all easier to explain with pencil and paper but here goes... After slicing and you have all these line segments cura tries to hook them up into loops so it looks for any 2 line segments that appear to have a vertex at the same point. But what is "same"? you have floating point errors because these vertexes were created by an intersection of a line and 2 different triangle faces and so you might not get the exact same point *anywhere*. So you have to pick "close enough". I don't know what the limit is but lets assume .01mm. So it starts linking line segments up but once it finds a match I'm pretty sure it doesn't try to link in a 3rd line - that would be insanity. Yet this insanity exists - a lot. Expecially in sketchup models where you have 3 planes all coming together - where the hell is the inside? Where is the outside? Cura basically picks at random if you have all the fix horrible options turned off which pre-process the 3d model. What if you connect up all those line segments and you get an *almost* loop that doesn't come back together? It is ignored and that part of the model (for this slice anyway) is ignored and not printed. This happens a lot with non-manifold objects also. That's why you never want a hole in your walls of your model and you never want walls *inside* your part. You need to make it very clear what's solid and what's *not* solid in your model. Sketchup is not so good at that.

tinkerGnome - I love your version of Marlin! Just had to mention that. I think i found a bug. Or a feature I don't think I like: I sell temp sensors and I test each one because the variation is pretty bad (about 1 in 10 are off by more than 8C). I test them using my printer - just disconnect the existing heater and temp sensor and plug in my "reference" sensor and heater and those go in an aluminum block with an extra hole for the sensor to be tested. The problem is that after a minute (maybe 3 minutes? 2 minutes?) the temp suddenly goes to 0C. I didn't use the preheat feature - I used the "set nozzle temp" in "advanced" (not sure exact wording). Is this a feature? Some kind of timeout? I looked for a place where I can adjust it - possibly in advanced preferences, but no luck. edit - by the way I built the code from scratch from your latest github source as of last weekend.

I have 3 printers. No dust. I had that kind of dust on my UMO the first week I owned it and I learned that the belt was rubbing on the wood - the pulley on the motor was too far down the shaft - I needed to move the pulley closer to the motor so it was almost touching. But I think you might have a different issue here. One problem is you have 3 pulleys above that motor I think. Still there is more dust closer to this belt in the image so I'm guessing that's the belt that is rubbing somewhere.

Photo please - this might be oozing -- or it might be something comlpetely different. Everytime I think I understand a photo is published and I realize I'm giving bad advice. For one thing, some pla's, particularly white (doesn't matter who makes it) seem to ooze more so consider trying a different color. In general lower temp, printing slow (like 25mm/sec) but moving fast when not printing (travel moves at 150mm/sec minimum - 300mm/sec probably best). But post a pic please.

That looks very strange - I've seen hundreds of things go wrong and how they look after but this one doesn't look like any of those. Maybe if you show it after just 1 or two layers - as soon as it looks different. So please post one more picture of the bottom layer - and if that looks fine show the first bad layer.

Those bridging errors are very minor - I recommend not trying to print with perfect bridging as it involves unnecessary changes. e.g. printing slower at start of bridge so "thread" doesn't snap. Or thicker layers. But those are normal - I would just cut them off with a razor or use a butane torch to make them shrink to invisibility with a quick pass over with flame. Or a candle. But razor is probably easiest into that tight area if you don't have a really nice butane torch. Really those are fine for the raptor hand. and the ones underneath - that would touch the back of your hand - those are fine also as they will be covered with velcro when it's all put together.

Now that you are activated you should be able to upload photos

I just discovered that the tinkerGnome version of Marlin does everything that I posted for you. I strongly recommend you get it - you can even print initially with regular marlin, then install tinkerGnome Marlin and finish the print wtih tinkerGnome marlin: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Fascinating! Why not flip both fans? Do you do 100% fan? 30% fan? This is interesting idea. Flipping the fan I imagine will reduce it's cooling power by maybe 90%? That's a good thing for ABS as too much fan causes bad layer adhesion. Tell me more about this!