gr5

Here is your photo. Not sure why you can't just drag it from your hard drive or desktop to the photo upload window.

Again, I'm not sure, but I think you are talking about Marlin.

Oh and you can make the layer height thicker if you want. So typically for .8mm nozzle I might do .8mm shell and .25mm or .3mm layer height. This results in fast print!

You have to change the nozzle size *and* the shell width because the shell width must always be a multiple of the nozzle size. Although with the .8mm nozzle I usually just do one pass (.8 shell) and with the .4mm nozzle I usually do .8mm shell also (two passes). But if I switch to .6mm then I would likely pick .6mm wall or 1.2mm if it needs to withstand severe forces (people standing on it).

If noone replies, go to 3dhubs and have someone nearby print something tiny ($10 worth) and then tell them you would like to pick up your part and chat if they don't mind about what they know about 3d printers. Also nice thing about 3dhubs is you can pick which printer they print on (hint - pick ultimaker! lol!).

In USA I recommend colorfabb from printedSolid.com.

By the way the "spiralize" feature in Cura used to be called "Joris" but he asked to have his name removed from Cura.

Joris makes lots of cups that are watertight - he is the expert so consider talking to him. I think he lives in Eindhoven or somewhere near Amsterdam. Anyway he prefers to use a larger nozzle I believe. A .6 or .8mm nozzle. His cups are quite light weight. But if he uses a smaller nozzle than .6 I think he over extrudes (sets shell to maybe .8mm or .6mm with a .4mm nozzle). This fills in all the cracks and makes it water tight.

the feature discussed above was implemented. First don't confuse Marln and Cura. Marlin runs on the printer. Cura runs on a desktop or laptop. Cura tends to not have material profiles as the idea is to keep that on the printer and have the printer adjust for each material so several settings can be easily switched based on material. You can create many material profiles and edit them and rename them. You get the most control though if you save them to the SD card and edit them with your computer and then load them back in.

If combing is on and you have to comb to get from one line to another then make sure you aren't passing over infill lines that haven't been filled in yet on the way. That should help. The guy with the maze turned off combing and his print was much faster. He's happy.

There's an inexpensive slicer called Simplify3D that almost everyone who tries it loves.

You have severe underextrusion or maybe zero extrusion. I guess the first thing to check is the "third fan". Is that coming on as the nozzle heats above 50C? Having that fan fail is a common cause of this kind of thing. There's lots of possibilities - could there maybe be too many retractions? If the same piece of material goes through the feeder 20X it's usually fine but 40X or 100X and it can grind the filament down to dust by the 40th time going back and forth over the same spot. This infill looks fine but maybe another area? Your nozzle could be much colder (pla like toothpaste) or hotter (pla chemically changing) than you thought. Your feeder stepper combined with warm air nearby can cause the extruder to get above the glass temp of PLA and the PLA melts/squishes. The PLA may be brittle and breaking in the bowden and catching in the print head - this has been very very common this last few months. You need to start eliminating some of these possibilities.

Turn on the "spiralize" feature. This will make it do the double thickness that you want. Without that checked then it will do 2 passes with the .4mm nozzle but spiralize is designed to make water tight cups or vases. Also print slow - this is heavy over extrusion (.8mm trace out of a .4mm nozzle). Also .05 is a bit thin - the upper layers might not be able to nicely melt the layer below with such a thin coat. I recommend .1mm at least to see if that helps with water tight.

This is most likely your Z stage. It could be that your nozzle is varying by more than 10C in temperature slowly - so check that first as that's easy to test while printing. and it could be filament that varies wildly in thickness. But most likely it is the Z stage. Probably the linear bearings and not the Z screw. You want to keep those vertical rods very clean and no oil is needed - in fact it's better if there is some friction as the ball bearings like to roll and if they don't roll or get clogged with oil it can be a problem. I recommend taking it apart and removing the 2 vertical bearings and cleaning it out very well with WD40 and drying it completely with rag or something similar and making sure they slide nicely and putting it back together. Other people have had similar problems and fixed it by cleaning the 2 bearings.

I printed this one for my UMO. I'm pretty happy with it: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126716 I don't remember if I had to drill any holes or not. If you have a clothespin - remove the spring and use that as your tensioner - that's what is used inside the blocks on the UM2.

does the LineOrderOptimizer algorithm take into account combing? A guy in another thread is printing a maze and so obviously only the walls are printed. Because combing is turned on it is jumping all over the place following very long paths to get to the next spot to do infill on. The next spot might be 1cm away but it might travel 20cm to get there through the walls of the maze. But it skips right past many other areas that need infill while it goes over there.

Picking the most efficient order of infill is very very complicated. What seems simple to a human is incredibly hard to do in an algorithm. This algorithm was just explained in another set of posts just over the last few weeks - there is this tree structure or grid structure where the slice is grided into 4 squares and then those into 4 subsquares and repeated on down to a small size and every vertex is placed in a square and when it finishes with a line of infill it uses this to find the closest line to do next. And there's other stuff I forgot already. Anyway it tends to pick the closest line to do next ignoring the fact that if combing is on it may have to travel a LONG way around. I think a better algorithm might be to try to do the lines from Y=0 to Y=200 or something like that (top to bottom basically). At least anytime the next line is more than 1cm away.

Don't worry - someone at DHL will notice within 10 minutes.

@swq0603 for a limited time my conversion kits come with a nozzle also. 2 or 3 left I think. No rush as these are not big sellers and 3 kits should last a few months. But the next few kits have no nozzles so you have to get them elsewhere. I don't recommend the kit unless you already have lots of 1.75mm filament going to waste. I also don't recommend owning 2 sizes of filament as that just results in more waste and more storage and more keeping track of which filaments you are running out of. If you do want to be able to print both then you should also get a complete head so get the steel coupler, the spring, the teflon insert, heater, temp sensor. It's a lot of stuff to buy. The advantage is you can quickly swap bowdens and change which heater is active in the "tinker marlin". So once you are set up, switching takes about a minute. For USA/canada/mexico people only these kits are here: gr5.org/store/ For other countries start at 3dsolex.com.

Consider unchecking "combing". This will at least move directly to the next area instead of following the inside of the maze walls and will save you lots of time. It might reduce the quality slightly but hopefully you won't notice any difference. combing is among the retraction settings.

Alternatively your X and Y pulleys could be loose allowing the head to move the wrong path. But this is very unlikely to happen in *both* axes at once. But if the part stuck well to the glass and you watched this happening and the part wasn't dragging around - then plan B is to tighten the hell out of ALL SIX (not just 4) pulleys on each axis - usually the pulleys on the motor. Tighten the hell out of those - the hex wrench should twist a little.

I've seen this before when the part doesn't stick to the bed and gets dragged around by the nozzle. Is that what happened? There are several ways to improve this. Here's my standard answer pasted in - you can probably skip brim step as this part (car) should be relatively easy to get it to stick: lifting corners, curling corners, part not sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

It's bad to upload to imgur as it will not host that image for years yet a mere few months from now someone will come to this thread and look for you picture and it will be gone. Here it is:

Definitely you need oil as without oil there is huge friction in the bowden. I have not tried vegetable oil but it probably works fine. I use "3-in-1" oil which is just a basic light petroleum oil. Sewing machine oil also works will. it will not damage the printer. It may cause some slow build up on the inside of the nozzle over many dozens of prints. Maybe. Probably not. But you can just change the nozzle after you go through a few rolls of filament. For ninja flex which is even more flexible and more difficult I print very very slow (10mm/sec) and hot (240C). I don't recommend going to 240C right away though - start with the oil - make sure you can see the oil inside the bowden. Just one or two drops is enough but unspool a few feet of filament and put one drop on the filament *before* it goes through the feeder also. Then start printing slow - the bottom layer - if it is squished too much the filament will have trouble coming out and you will have your issue (tangle at feeder). Go into the tune menu and slow the feedrate down to maybe 20% of normal just to see how things work. Or maybe adjust the 3 leveling screws by the same amount to give it a little more room to come out if it's not coming out. Then try speeding up the feedrate faster and faster until you see it's underextruding or having trouble at the feeder and back off. Higher temps help also but don't go above 240c. Consider printing out the IRobertI feeder (google it). It's better at flexible filaments than the regular feeder.

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