gr5

continuing resuming rescuing failed print resume First you need to use pronterface to find the exact layer to continue on. Pronterface is here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ read all gr5 posts here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5213-ideas-for-recovering-failed-prints post #9 here has specific code change example for um2 (ultigcode): https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/6269-um2-printing-more-than-24-hours-non-stop

Dear ultimaker. For Christmas please send me an Ultimaker 3 (I don't know that such a thing exists but I can hope).

I can explain some of the details. There are 3 different rewrites of the engine by the way. There are many steps - an STL has all the triangles in random order so when you intersect that with a plane you get a bunch of unrelated random line segments and you Cura then goes and links them into loops but sometimes has trouble. That's one of the key steps that it has trouble with. What were you curious about in particular? infill algorithms? shell? Support algorithms? Slicing? "fix horrible" features? Calculating line width? There's tons of details but usually people only care about one tiny aspect.

These settings look good - my comments included: absolute_extrudersteps = 1 acceleration = 0 bed_size = 200,200 bed_temperature = 60 bridge_fan_speed = 100 bridge_flow_ratio = 1 bridge_speed = 20 No need to speed up or slow down on bridging - don't know why speed is different here. brim_width = 3 complete_objects = 0 cooling = 0 disable_fan_first_layers = 1 duplicate = 1 duplicate_distance = 6 duplicate_grid = 1,1 end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors external_perimeter_speed = 100% extra_perimeters = 1 extruder_clearance_height = 20 extruder_clearance_radius = 20 extruder_offset = 0x0 extrusion_axis = E extrusion_multiplier = 1 extrusion_width = 0 fan_always_on = 0 fan_below_layer_time = 60 definitely change this one to 2.85: filament_diameter = 1.75 fill_angle = 45 fill_density = 0.4 fill_pattern = rectilinear first_layer_bed_temperature = 60 first_layer_extrusion_width = 200% first_layer_height = 100% first_layer_speed = 20% This is on the cool side - not sure why so cool. I would go more 190c or 210C. UM printer bridges very well with PLA and fan on 100%: first_layer_temperature = 185 infill_acceleration = 50 infill_every_layers = 1 infill_extruder = 1 infill_extrusion_width = 0 This is crazy slow - go with 30 to 40mm/sec: infill_speed = 20 layer_gcode = Wow - very thick - I guess maybe you can do .5 - these are strange objects but maybe go with .3mm layer height? layer_height = 0.5 max_fan_speed = 100 no - make min fan speed 100% I think: min_fan_speed = 35 min_print_speed = 10 Ultimaker has 0.4mm nozzle: nozzle_diameter = 0.5 output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode why so slow? Ultimaker typically is 5000mm/sec/sec acceleration but this might be for a good reason as bridging is tricky: perimeter_acceleration = 25 perimeter_extruder = 1 perimeter_extrusion_width = 0 perimeter_speed = 20 perimeters = 3 post_process = good: print_center = 100,100 randomize_start = 1 Not sure if this is in mm but I would maybe change this to 4.5mm as 2mm is not enough on the UM which has a long bowden: retract_before_travel = 2 retract_length = 1 retract_lift = 0 retract_restart_extra = 0 retract_speed = 30 rotate = 0 scale = 1 skirt_distance = 6 skirt_height = 1 skirts = 1 slowdown_below_layer_time = 15 small_perimeter_speed = 20 solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear solid_infill_speed = 20 solid_layers = 3 start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes again - try 190C to 220C: temperature = 185 top_solid_infill_speed = 20 travel_speed = 100 use_relative_e_distances = 0

ultimaker takes all the standard gcodes that reprap printers take. Ultimaker uses the marlin firmware and so the gcodes for marlin are well documented. If it works for any open source printer (like lulzbot or printrbot) then it will probably work as is on an Ultimaker. A few details - where is 0,0? For ultimaker 0,0 is in front left corner and all X,Y,Z,E values should be made positive. The limit for UMO (which has smaller bed) is about 225X225X205(height) so the center of the bed is half those X,Y values. Z=0 means nozzle is touching the bed. This is a fantastic refernce and tells you which gcodes are supported by marlin: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code Also keep in mind that E movements normally are in mm of filament but the UM printers use 3mm filament (actually 2.85mm) and other manufacturers use 1.75mm filament so you want to move the E disances MUCH smaller.

I don't think half (about 150 per day to about 80 per day) the volume of before is my definition of "dying". I haven't noticed much difference myself other than a few key people gone and a few new people fill in their place. But yes, "half the volume" is kind of disappointing especially after a 4months to recover.

What? z steps? or e steps? esteps/mm on UMO I think should be about 830 to 840. What? Extruder skips back? this sounds like UM2! That shouldn't happen on UMO I think. Maybe UMO+ does that? If that is true then print at half speed. Or 1/4 speed. Until this problem goes away.

Isn't that part supposed to be square? It looks strange shape. how can you say it "looks good" if it isn't even square? I'm still confused if your problem is underextrusion or play. If underextrusion try printing slower - half speed. But assuming problem is play - it can either be loose belts (CHECK ALL 6 BELTS NOT JUST 4 LONG BELTS) - usually the short ones to the motors - or it can be too much friction. Did you test friction? You should be able to push head around with two fingers one on each side block. What is this test result? I wouldn't worry about "tick" sound - that's usually harmless and can have many causes - one is that the long belts don't line up with the rods and the belt goes up the pulley side and then falls back into the groove. There are other "tick" sounds - none of them that I know about are serious. Maybe make a 10 second video of the sound - but I don't think it's serious.

Well you can design a kind of raft until you are above the clips and then print the full volume from there up.

peg?

Oh - don't go over 240C with PLA. That's asking for trouble. Consider 240C to be the max temp and only when printing really fast.

Okay - the problem is not underextrusion. The problem seems to be that infill is not reaching the shell. This is caused by backlash or play usually (two words for the same thing). Is this a UMO or UM2? The UMO gets backlash more often. Backlash is most often caused by either loose belts (most often the short belts to the motors) or by too much friction. Test for friction by pushing the head around. You should be able to push the head on UMO or UM2 with one finger on each block opposite the head. If friction is too high on the UMO then it's usually the end caps. Hell just tell us which printer you have and if it seems the belts mighth be loose or too much friction. Tight belts can cause backlash due to creating high friction also. Which printer do you have?

If that's supposed to be 50% infill then I ahve one answer for you but assuming that's supposed to be 100% infill then clearly your problem is underextrusion: CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 100 hours. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block. Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand. 3) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 4) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 5) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 5b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 5c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 6) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. 7) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 8) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 9) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 10) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 10b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. 11) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. 12) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it.

Photos please - people think words are clear but there is often something TOTALLY different going on than what we think and photos are helpful. Photos of the part and also show what you are talking regarding the feeder please showing where it is rubbing.

learn gcodes. Here's a good reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code The key feature you want is the "G92" command. so for example you can move up 5mm like this and then tell the printer this is the new 0mm: G1 z5 G92 Z0

I find .8mm with one shell layer stronger than .4mm two shell layers. I'm not sure how strong a single pass with .6mm is though. Is .8mm not possible because you have walls too thin? If so consider buying simplify 3D. I don't have it but I hear good things about it - you can customize certain areas of your print for different features so you could maybe lie and say the nozzle is .6mm for some walls and then tell the truth for other parts of the print.

gorgeous! Was there an earthquake? Why are some of the lights fallen over?

What you say is true but it's more complicated. Mostly you have to worry about the clips. If you know 100% certainty that the nozzle won't be hitting the clips then there might be a way to print to that full volume.

Hmm - okay well I take it all back. I looked at the gcode in repetier-host and it looks fine. There must be some bug in Cura when viewing gcode files. :( It looks fine at 23 mm- I don't think it's a slicing issue - probably a hardware issue. Either underextrusion or Z platform moves too far. Can you measure the printed height to see if it's off by .5mm or whatever the gap is?

Well look at the gcode file you posted. It's subtle - when the yellow traces are missing on a layer or when they are faded in color (darker) that's because it's still showing the layer below but hasn't printed anything on the current layer. You can also see that the red sides have gaps every 5 or 10 layers - somewhat regularly. Something very strange is going on. Near layer 230? Well it skips over layers: 210,215,225,234,248,265 And many other layers are skipped. Another clue is that there are zero blue lines on the layers that it is not printing on.

Actually you can set the lower current in the regular menu. It often happens the same spot because that's how long it takes to overheat the Z driver. But you could be right of course - it might be mechanical. If you can prove it then you can get some parts replaced. Probably the Z rods and/or the Z bearings.

The whole point of this contest is that the sockets cost too much. These steel pieces would be much cheaper. Meduza's design is better than ultiarjan's (so far) I think because the hot part of the tools is farther away from the plastic. Yes IRobertI is smart. So damn smart. He never ceases to amaze me. There are companies out there who need mechanical engineers that have no idea what they could be hiring! I think it would be so cool to take the meduza part and combine it with the iroberti torque-arm design and make that in PLA such that when it touches you stop torquing. Then you don't need such a huge torque wrench you can print something much smaller.

I agree - 250C for 10 minutes will definitely turn ABS into a kind of material similar to chewing gum.

Titus it's just too much glue for a perfect bottom. Put down glue in stripes on only half the surface, then use a wet tisue to spread it around (the tissue will remove 90% of the glue which is fine). It should dry to invisible - or very close to invisible.

If the temp is indeed wrong it's probably something that opens up as you heat it up (I assume it reads 20C at room temperature - if not then there is a bad connection). Anywhere you have a bad connection (wire to terminal block under printer, wire to terminal block at back of bed, solder connection from terminal block to bed, solder connection to little pt100) you get increased resistance which increases the temp reading which means the actual temp is lower (cooler glass).