gr5

Axes is plural. As in two axes. Axis is singular as in one axis. The plural of Axe and the plural of Axis are both spelt the same but pronounced differently. It is not pronounced axe-es (as in more than one Axe), but Axe-ees.

The object in your video is perfect to test with. It doesn't matter if you have an ulticontroller or use cura, in either case there is a setting to control the print speed (%). If you use cura, set all speeds to the same % because for this test you don't want pressure build up caused by infill speed. I usually set my mm/sec to 100 so that the percentage equals print speed. So 50% would be 50mm/sec. I would do 10 layers at 70mm/sec, then 10 layers at 50mm/sec then 10 layers at 20mm/sec then 10 layers at 10mm/sec. Use a permanent marker pen to indicate where you changed speeds. Keep good notes on paper while you do this.

If you decide to tighten this be very careful as the brass nozzle is easy to break. Heat up to 200C and let it sit for 30 seconds before tightening.

Any cheat sheet needs to be on a wiki. That way people like illuminarti and I (and Aaron and nicolinux and others of course) can update it and add to it and correct it. If the cheat sheet gets really good then you will see many answers on here being links to the cheat sheet. So it shouldn't just be an intro, it should also be useful for people who have a particular problem (e.g. "my part is tilted!"). The cheat sheet needs to be able to show problems with photos so people can recognize their particular issue and solution more easily. It needs to have separate pages linked together so people can start with their particular problem: "I have blobs" which would have links to the 12 causes of blobs which are mostly unrelated (Cura infill pops through edge, Z movement releases blob, over pressure, stringing, ...)

@nicolinux - I have the heated bed. It works. But I rarely use it. My bed is aluminum with kapton tape on top. For cold prints I add blue tape on top of the kapton tape. For heated bed prints I sometimes use blue tape and sometimes kapton tape. Recently I printed my most difficult print - a "boat propellor". Even using the heated bed and covering sides and tops there was excessive warping. I had to push down the parts that warped upwards repeatedly with a putty knife to keep it from hitting the fan shroud. I had to add extra support in CAD also. Similar to this one (was also 5 blades, steep pitch, rounded blades): http://www.the3dstudio.com/product_details.aspx?id_product=523162 So I have found that even a heated bed isn't enough when you have steep overhangs on long skinny objects. The warping lifts the ends and makes it a challenge.

I've printed on cold kapton tape and it doesn't stick well but good enough for easy prints. On a heated bed at 70C with PLA it sticks quite well but at 60C it sticks no better than room temperature.

Original poster fixed the problem by oiling rods apparently (he cross posted in google groups).

Other people claim the z limit switch is repeatable to better than .001mm so no need to do hall effect or optical sensor as existing design works fine.

You were successful at getting part to stick to tape so now you need tape to stick to acrylic. Use wider tape as Illuminarti says.

Love the video. Clearly there is still pressure built up before the Z moves up. Reduce this by slowing down the print speed or raising the temp. If you cut speed in half I would expect half the size of a blob.

I don't think it's #2, I think it's #1. #2 is about your z screw. I don't see any other indication of problems with z screw. Do you have problem with z screw also?

If you had posted this 12 hours ago I could look at it but I am away from home for 3 days so I can't open the STL. But I see the name mentions .5mm wall. Just as a quick test, try setting your nozzle width to .2mm. See what happens in layer view in cura. With a .4mm nozzle you can't print anything smaller than .8mm thick in X or Y.

i agree with aaron. Put the head together with both. Leave brass nozzle off. Never insert filament into second head until you get the nozzle back on.

so it's #1 above. You can have cura split the trilobyte into it's seperate pieces and it will print them all in one go but one at a time. That way there is no chancee of stringing. The old project planner in cura did this but now the project planner is built in. I always set temp to 0 in cura and set it manually. If you try it you will see it's much nicer experience. I print hotter for first layer (usuallly 230C or 240C then as soon as first layer is done I lower the temp. You can do this with ulticontroller or cura. But never go from 230C down to 180C because it will overshoot and has a good chance of tripping the 170C minimum. So instead go to 190C first and wait until temp is stable then go lower if needed.

>I found out that on some models the V13.07. adds support without any connection to the print bed.. lol. That's why it's still in Beta maybe. Daid might appreciate it if you post the model on some website and provide a link.

I don't think that works anymore. I recommend you use pronterface. It's free and great for playing with gcodes. It can also send a gcode file to the printer instead of using cura and people say it's more dependable but I wouldn't know.

But --- to me -- that top part of the walls was the most interesting. I'd hate to hide it under the roof. Will the rooms all have high ceilings like that? Or will it have flat ceilings and will that be a separate attic? If attic then fine - hide it. If it is part of the room space then it is going to make for interesting rooms and should be prominent (not hidden under roof). :-P

As long as you have a relatively new Ultimaker (with the newer hotend - when did they switch to V2 hotend? A year ago?) then you can set the min cooling time to zero. Mine is at zero. There's not going to be a minimum feedrate issue if your layers are .2 or .1 or even .05mm thick.

>PS: I'll send some pictures later on Please! I still think it's PLA leakage, bubbling, and melting but if those crisp corners and edges of the peek part are now droopy, soft, and rounded then of course it's the peek. The heater definitely has the power to melt the peek if it is stuck on. But PEEK shouldn't melt/deform noticeably below 300C (even though it's glass temp is 143C): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK I think I mentioned this but if you let PLA stay hot long enough it turns roughly the same color as PEEK and then if you wait long enough turns black.

That's normal. Mine often get too hot to touch. That's without even using a heated chamber - then they get really hot!

I would instead print with tons of support and file it all off afterwards.

But none of this is what you want to know!! What is wrong with your print??? I'm not sure. 1) Was this printed by itself or with other objects at the same time? If the answer is "other objects" then almost guaranteed that is "stringing". You can verify by looking at the gcode view in Cura and there should be a blue line right at the exact same location of each blob. You can fix this by printing one object at a time. There are other ways to fix stringing but the best is method in this case is to print one object at a time. 2) It could possibly also be caused by over extrusion or over pressure - sometimes the pressure is too high and the UM keeps printing just fine until suddenly it all leaks out in a burst/blob. This could be caused by a bad Z movement - maybe it is sticking and some layers are less than desired so there is less space for plastic and over pressure (over extrusion). 3) It could be infill. This also can be checked by looking at the layer view and see if each blob lines up perfectly with the infill pattern. Even better, print it again, look at it when it is half way through and see if the blobs line up with the infill. If this is your problem, increase the shell thickness to .8 or 1.2mm to prevent the infill from reaching past the outer skin. This "extruding infill" is a problem with the latest cura (steam engine). I have some details on it here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2501-is-this-slicing-settings-or-hardware-problem/?p=17683

Yes! I keep a notebook and pen under the print bed. When I start heating the nozzle I also write down the date and what I'm printing. I usually mention temperature and feedrate as those are the main things that aren't obtainable from the gcode (the gcode always stores all the settings in the last line of the gcode file). My Cura print temp is always 0 which makes it much easier - I set the temp manually and can start the print when the temp is "close enough". I don't have to wait for the temperature to settle. 170C is the minimum temp for the extruder to work so I would set the nozzle to 175C or 180C. I wouldn't recommend leaving it like that for more than 5 minutes but I have many times and nothing bad every happened.

printing at 82% is about right for a very fast print. Illuminarti was able to get it down to 72% with very high pressures (fast extrusion rates). See this article for an explanation - especially look at the graphs (I like graphs) but if you really want to understand it you should probably read the whole article: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/

Definitely don't solder when you can screw it down as this is safer. N is neutral from your house power (white wire) L is power from your house power (black wire) Third one is ground from your house power (green wire) You can use any old junk extension cord and screw it in there. Make damn sure there are no tiny wires anywhere shorting between any of these 3 signals. The 24V comes out of the + and - terminals. You might have to short them together as possibly one each are for "sense" where it senses the voltage and adjusts as necessary. Meaning short the - terminals together and short the + terminals. You want to use the largest wire that seems reasonable to fit under those DC terminals. Anything laying around the house that fits that description is fine. After you hook it up to your heated bed and run it for 5 minutes, feel the temperature of the wires. If they are quite hot then you need larger diameter wires.