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Run the firstrun wizard (you don't need to connect to an UM). Answer just the first 2 pages and then when it wants to connect to your machine cancel out of the first run wizard. This will set up all the settings for you that are needed. The most important thing is to tell Cura that you have an Ultimaker. Then this should work fine.

It looks like all the movement is in X only. So you only have to pay attention to the X axis. 90% chance the problem is a loose setscrew like illuminarti says. Tighten all 6 of them! (6 - not 4). Consider using the extra ones supplied with the UM kit. The pulleys come with black set screws but the UM kit comes with better ones that are silver colored.

Nick speaks wisely. Your problem is underextrusion but there is a third cause he didn't consider: Is your infill speed faster than your print speed? If so then you can leave the print speed alone - you only have to slow down the infill speed (or raise temperature). A part like this appears to have no stringing issues (no times when the head jumps a gap) so I would print it at 240C. At 240C you can print much faster than at 190 to 210C.

I'd rather wait until you have problems before explaining how to fix them. That way you will remember the answers better. If you want to know more just read every question and answer on this forum. Subscribe to the google groups ultimaker group also. I can tell you things you will run into if you want to search for issues and answers now until when it happens: Part not sticking to tape tape not sticking to bed underextrusion aka holes in top of print, or holes in side of print insufficient cooling warping stringing clogged nozzle min or max temp error infill not touching sides

Yes, I had the same thought - it may have been broken before you even got it. More likely something shook loose during shipping. This is a bad place to communicate with support. Create a ticket. Unfortunately you probably won't hear back until Monday. You might not want to hear this but I recommend you do some electronics debugging. Plus shipping from The Netherlands is slow if you need a new board or switch. You might not agree but I recommend you do some more debugging. You said you checked the cable - what does that mean? Did you take the bottom cover off the electronics board (by the way there is a single 3 pin voltage regulator that sticks up - this can get very hot so if power is on check this with your fingers occasionally and cut power if it is hot enough to boil water)? I would hook up a volt meter to that connector and measure the resistance - make sure it is under 10 ohms (should be under 1 ohm) when you click the switch and over 1MOhm when switch is open. Giggle the wire especially near the switch and near the connector end. Make sure the meter is always connected so you can see brief wiring errors. If it is broken even slightly then consider replacing the wiring or replace it with another switch. You only need one sensor for each axis (x,y,z). For example you are unlikely to ever need the Z bottom sensor. The firmware in the UM (Marlin) has software limits on I believe by default so those other switches should never get tripped unless you have a hardware failure and if you have a hardware failure, the UM can handle the force of going beyond the limit (well maybe the Z can't but the x and y can). If it seems fine then connect a different sensor anyway (e.g. Z bottom switch) to the Y front sensor, put the UM back together and test it with Cura or by homeing and hitting the switch with your fingers. If it still is broken then it's your PCB (printed circuit board). There may be a cold solder joint for the pullup resistor. If you are good with electronics then we can send you the circuit diagram if you want or you can get it through googling. Or if you are not good with electronics just ask Ultimaker for a new board and they will likely send you one free. While waiting for it you can continue to print.

If you are getting stringing on the eifel tower just slow down the print. Make the decision that you can wait a few more hours. I recommend layer height .2mm and 50mm/sec max to avoid stringing. And keep the temp low - no higher than 220C. 200C might be better. And at those cold temps I might go down to 30mm/sec. If layer height is .1mm then you can go twice as fast of course (60-100mm/sec) - the whole issue is keeping the pressure in the nozzle low so when it stops extruding you don't get leakage/stringing.

Thanks. But every imperfection is caused by my badly ripped and torn and scratched build surface. It's Kapton tape and it badly needs changing. I hope to finish my new Galaxy S4 cell phone case with this purple lady on it this weekend and I will put on fresh tape first.

I'm very good at levelling the bed. But I still hate it. I wish it could be automated somehow.

Very nice videos by the way. Good taste on that octopus - I love that one also.

If you mean "stop messing with levelling" then good luck with that. Everytime you pop a piece off the bed it changes. Or just over time the bed droops (gets lower and lower every day a tiny bit). Don't use the UC to move the head. Just push it around with your hand. On the UC under "prepare" you can do "home all axes" and then conveniently above that is "disable servos" which then allows you to push the head around. Extruder also.

I think you have the wrong instructions. I think you want these instructions: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.3_assembly:_Extrusion_head#Parts_needed_in_this_section_2

I could have used that 2 nights ago. I'm going to bookmark this for future.

This is basically impossible to do. Or damn hard anyway. When you slice 2 consecutive layers, one might have just finished the top of the part. Or the 2 layers may be significantly moved in X or Y from each other. Where do you put the infill? Should the infill go only inside the inner of the 2 combined layers? So it only touches the edge of one of the shells? The way the current slicer seems to work is it seems to be relatively stupid about what is going on in the layer above or below. So I think it would be hard to do even this "do the smaller area" infill option. But I agree it would be great if Cura could make half as many infill passes as shell/skin passes.

I doubt your pulleys are slipping as this would cause a shift on layers above. Please post a photo of the part. How much error are we talking about? Sometimes the bearings in the head of the printer get loose. With power off, try pushing the head back in forth in X and in Y (with the maximum force where the head does not yet move). Is there any play? If you have "play" or "backlash" then you would also see issues where the infill isn't meeting the edge of the part and the infill is in a pattern (sometimes) where there are 2 lines together, then a gap, then 2 lines, then a gap. Please post a photo showing the problem.

M221 sets the flow rate I beleive so this would be trivial. There already is a plugin that lets you insert gcodes at a particular layer - just add the M221 command. Although most of the plugins broke when cura changed the move commands to G1 and G0 instead of ... just G1 maybe? Or you can insert the M221 command by hand with a text editor: M221 S90 ;set flow to 90% http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M221:_set_extrude_factor_override_percentage Regarding antenna - it's not clear to me that flow rate needs to be changed here. If your antennae's look "melted" or overextruded it's actually common - it's caused because it's printing them too fast and not letting the layer below cool. In Cura make sure: advanced/cool/minimal layer time: 7 (at least 5 seconds here) expert/cool/minimum speed: 0 (this is probably your problem - this defaults to a bad value and should be zero)

In other words, Cura 13.06 doesn't have the "skin" feature anymore. 1) To get rid of the vertical seam at one corner, print slower so there is less oozing when you pause. Also double your Z acceleration to 200mm/sec/sec so that it hops up to the next layer faster. 2) To get rid of ringing, which is vertical seams that are stronger at a corner and fade out, reduce your XY acceleration by half. 3) To get rid of vertical seams that are part of the CAD model, you have to edit the CAD model. 4) To get rid of the remaining vertical seams you have to play with temperature or flow (see second picture with white cubes): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/ I'm wondering if lowering flow instead of changing temperature would have worked better in the above photos.

Printed this 2 nights ago - subject chosen because I have NYC on my mind as Maker Faire is coming up in 9 days. I'm thinking about making a smartphone case and this is an experiment to see if it works. It worked better than I expected and if I just repair the kapton tape rips on my bed, it will come out perfect. Click on image for details of how I made it but quick summary - used lithopane software then flipped it so that the part sticking up is now sticking down. Turned off support and cranked the "flow" when printing the white, second layer. Flow back to normal on 3rd layer. It's a hack, I know but it came out good enough and will come out better next time.

Pronterface is free and works great. I love it. google it. It's a nice application. However I believe there is a way to get to the print dialog without having a print loaded. I forget. I think maybe you right click on the "save" button maybe and there might be a choice there. I know there are more choices when you right click on some icons. Daid explained how to do it once but I never tried it and forgot (because I have an ulticontroller). Also you can speed up slicing drastically by increasing your layer thickness if all you want is to get through that step. Try layer thickness of 1mm maybe? if it will let you.

The versions of Marlin that come with Cura are pretty stable I beleive but if you want to be safe, download and install Cura 13.04 or older and use the first run wizard to install Marlin. That is a very safe version of Marlin. I don't recommend building marlin. You can google "ginge marlin builder" but I advise against this until you get your Ultimaker working. Please be aware that you can print even if all the XY switches are broken. But Z I think needs to be working. The printer makes a horrible sound for maybe 10 seconds while the steppers try to go past the end, and then it prints just fine after that. Perhaps your cables came loose during shipping. I would take off the bottom cover (with power off) and remove and re-insert all the limit switch cables: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.3_assembly:_Mounting_the_electronics#Step_6:_Connecting_the_rest_of_the_cables

I haven't tried too many filament colors and brands but printbl white is definitely a very strange material. It's definitely pla. But it's stickier. Like Lecitin. Like caramel maybe.

strange. I like Ian's explanation. But also check all the values in "file" "preferences". Particularly anything in mm. Also it helps to run the "first run wizard" if you never did - you only have to answer the first question or two - telling it that you have an ultimaker. Or do you not have an ultimaker?

I recommend you don't use raft ever with cura. You shouldn't ever need raft.

I know it makes a horrible sound but if you just let it do that for a few more seconds it will give up and print just fine afterwards. This is something you need to fix but you can at least print some things now. Could it be that the limit switch is a little too far away and isn't always getting touched by the block? Maybe you are missing a pullup resistor on your PCB. This would cause the voltage to float I think. Did you let Cura load your firmware? The firmware that comes with the Arduino I believe might have the limit switches backwards.

Progress!

I have had this problem occasionally so I usually print with my ulticontroller. Many other people have had this problem and fixed it in a variety of ways. Some just switched to a different computer (usually laptops are better?). Some have used a powered usb hub and that fixed it. Some changed cables. Some lowered the baud rate and used pronterface instead of Cura for the printing phase.