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I'm not a fan expert. I'm just repeating what other's have said. Daid (who wrote Cura) recommends this one which is as close to the stock one as possible: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-fanduct-replacement

Under expert settings/Cool/"Minimum speed"

Hmm. It's probably some of the comments in the start/end gcode. Make sure all those comments are still there maybe?

lol! I'll give you $2 per roll! Cash! I'll be at MakerFaire along with many ultimaker employees and other people such as illuminarti on Sept 21,22. Will you be going nick? I'll message you off this forum.

I haven't looked at it yet but the latest beta evidently has more options in cura - more choices - for support. It's still in beta but if you want to experiment with it, it apparently works okay: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/

Good post! Just so you know - the black plastic is called "Delrin". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delrin I suspect Ultimaker likes it because they can cut it with their laser cutter along with the plywood.

By the way you probably don't understand CURAs limitations. All "solids" must be completely enclosed - no holes. So for example if you print a cube it must have 6 sides. If it has a little opening in it Cura (by default) will discard that object. There are some checkboxes in "fix horrible" section of cura advanced options to get around this.

There are 1000 ways to upload a sketchup file to the internet. Here are a few that come to mind: 1) If you have a website you can put it there. If you have an ISP they usually give you at least one free website. 2) You can download dropbox (free up to 5GB) put it in one the "public" directory and tell dropbox you want to share and post the share link. 3) You can upload it to thingiverse or youmagine but make sure you mention that the model doesn't work yet. 4) There are thousands of wonderful, free sites that let you create good quality free web content: facebook, google, geocities, myspace, wordpress, blogger.com, weebly... This is a LIFE SKILL. Like learning to use email. Like being a fast typer. Like using a text editor. Learn how to do this once and it will be useful for the rest of your life.

A good heated bed kit should include longer rods and hardware for mounting the X and Y steppers *outside* the box so people can make a heated chamber instead of a heated bed.

I already have a heated bed but I would have paid $100 for everything *including* the power supply. I think you should include that. Just buy it and resell it like the rest of the parts. Or offer to sell the kit with or without the power supply.

What? Did you time it? This feature works quite well. Make sure you set the minimum feedrate to 0 as this setting can override the min layer time. This is a difficult print because of the steep overhang and the cooling shrinking effect on steep edges that warp upwards. Not sure what to do about it other than adding some support. A heated chamber might help. Anyway I recommend you do not make this at all. For one thing, it is bound to get too close to the nozzle and melt/droop onto your print. For another, restricting the air flow this much is not a good idea as the fan isn't designed for this small a nozzle and won't create much pressure and you will basically just drastically reduce the cooling.

I have win7 64 and cura 13.06.4 and it's fine. I doubt this has anything to do with win7 or 64bit. Try killing the process steamEngine maybe? Or look at the log file for errors in the cura folder? Do you get the progress bar when you change a cura parameter?

If you post your sketchup file I'd be happy to look at it and see what the problem is. It's probably something very simple to fix in sketchup.

Did you try meshlab yet? It's free. You just open the STL file and then save it. It's that simple.

Are you sure the PEEK part melted? Or did you just get some leakage? Sometimes PLA leaks out through the edge of the PEEK. PLA can turn brown or black if you keep it hot for too long. If it melted then something is wrong with your temperature readings. You need to fix this before replacing the PEEK part or you will melt it again.

It says: You do not have permission to view this image Did you upload it to your gallery? Maybe part of your gallery is marked private?

Send the filament back.

Maybe you are right, naz72. Maybe this 1.6% scaling is enough of a correction to get 90% of the errors. I'm starting to think maybe it's a good idea as a first approximation of correcting values. I'm not convinced that it will work for larger parts over 100mm in two dimensions. Maybe after you have printed some larger parts you can let us know how those outside dimensions went - exactly how accurate they were. I suspect you will need to undo some of that 1.6% but I could be wrong. What I think happens when printing a square is that as the nozzle lays down the outer edge, after it converts to a solid it shrinks, then when the nozzle comes by later for the next pass the nozzle is farther outside of the print and lays the next layer outside the layer below by a little bit. Then that shrinks. This keeps repeating and is why it is easy to see the layers even at .1mm height. So the printer keeps trying to correct for the shrinkage and this explains why larger parts don't need as much correction. Or maybe I'm wrong. Maybe larger parts need less correction because they take longer to do a layer so the part cools more completely before the next layer is placed down.

I strongly advise you not to mess with steps/mm as they are probably fine. The problem is that PLA shrinks when it cools (among other issues such that you might have only had 10 or 20 segments in your outer circle which also reduces the diameter). Much better to increase your CAD model outer diameter by 1.6% (80/78.74) or scale your object by 1.6% in Cura. You will have different scaling needs at different scales. So a part that is 100mm long will need much less correction than a part 10mm long. So "fixing" this with steps/mm will only work for parts that are about 27mm across and are cylinders. Other shapes might need slightly different scaling.

Instead of waiting for Daid I recommend you use an older version of Cura before 13.05. And choose "hexagonal" infill. Or try kissslicer. But really if you know Cura already I'd get an older version. You can install both and they will be clearly marked by their version number so it's easy to choose which cura you want.

His leveling is excellent. If he was too close to the bed by just .1mm (thickness of sheet of paper) the PLA would have been noticeably squished and he would have had corners with a radius of more than just .2mm. But with a round nozzle producing filament .2mm in radius you can't get tighter outside corners than that. That's the radius of the filament coming out of the nozzle. I believe you that positioning is 12.5 micron but outside corners can't be better than your nozzle size.

This is great, thanks. If you *do* create drawings they should all be 2D to show the thinking and "view" of a slice and you should *not* show 3d pictures since these options only affect a slice. But I read your post twice and I think it's reasonably clear and not sure pictures would help unless you showed all kinds of examples like what you do do if two lines cross in an "X" or if two lines are on top of each other and identical, or if there are 2 possible loops to choose from and so on. Do you ever do things like combine line segments shorter than say .05mm into one longer line?

Can you be more specific? Maybe post an image of what you are talking about? I think you are talking about one of the "thin wall" problems but not sure. Thin wall issues were somewhat improved in Cura recently. Usually you can do a fudge fix with thin walls by lying about the nozzle size and saying your nozzle is .3mm or .5mm instead of .4mm but I don't know what you are asking so please give more details. And include relevant distances.

I can only see the tiny versions of these images. When I click it says I "don't have permission". Can you fix this? I'm going to guess that your CAD model has internal surfaces inside the walls. Play with the "fix horrible" checkboxes in Cura. One of them should fix this for you. Or a combination of 2 of them. If not you will have to fix your model.

I recommend you *do* use a brim or your model might lift off the blue tape even with isopropyl alcohol cleaning the blue tape first. So personally I would rotate this 45 degrees (z axis) and print it diagonally from corner to corner where you have more space and should be able to add a brim (or a skirt if you want to).