olivierc

congratulation! And it sounds much more quiet than my ultimaker

So acceleration of 3000 gives better results? it's funny that it used to be Marlin's default setting before I'll give it another shot because I was mostly messing with the jerk value thinking it was the most responsible for ringing. Thank you for sharing. I tried to do similar tests a month ago, but for some reason, it was one of those days where nothing worked: print not sticking to bed, under extrusion, nozzle getting clogged...

Hi again Daid, I have another suggestion/request, maybe it's just me, but I think the brim line amount should be moved from the expert setting to the advance setting, because that's something I tend to modify for every print. Mostly because the supports are not yet taken into account when the brim is generated and I have to adjust the raft size so the supports are printed on it. Once this is fixed, this should not be a problem anymore.

From my experience, I have tried modifying jerk, acceleration and even adding weight to the plate, but did not see any improvement. In fact, lowering the acceleration and jerk too much produced worst results, as the print head would slow down too much and produce some blobs. I don't see how changing temperature may affect this though.

Yes it was printed with an ultimaker. It's about 3 inches tall, layer height is 0.1mm. I sanded it for a while, maybe an hour, but I did it while watching TV. Then primed it with spray paint, that's it

Very nice work and very nice photos too, at first I thought it was a 3d render Not nearly as bad as in Maya, really. I used to go to 3dsmax just for boolean before because it would just not work in maya. The proBoolean in 3dsmax is really not bad at all. Now I have found a decent boolean script for maya which works ok and allows me to keep it all in one program, which is much easier

looks very nice. Did you lay down the walls flat on the bed or did you print them vertically like that? if so, then how did you get the windows holes that nice? did you use any support or you are able to print nice long bridges without problem?

Cool video, blender evolved a lot since last time I used it, like 10 year ago

Hi Daid. I have been trying printing multiple objects in one session, and I must say it's really cool, saved me a lot of time, really useful when you need to print several small objects. I printed six small object at once, which took only half an hour to print, but would have taken much longer if i had to print them one by one. I would have had to remove the printed objects and re-heat the head every 5 minutes while here I just launched it a did other things in the meantime. I noticed one thing though, with the brim option. When printing multiple object, sometimes the brim spiral is printed backward: instead of starting printing from the outside of the skirt and moving inward and then start printing the object, it starts from the end of the spiral, where the object boundary is supposed to be, prints the spiral from the inside to the outside, then retracts and goes back to the object position. Add to that the fact that the filament got retracted from the end of the previous object, so when it starts printing the new brim, the filament does not stick immediately to the bed. This would not be an issue if it started the brim from the outside, but it is when it starts printing from the inside, because then the border of the brim supposed to stick with the object is not printed correctly. I ended up with brims not touching with the object, making it quite useless

Thank you for the file gr, I had already prepare my own, 7cm, and like illuminarti said, I unchecked the top and bottom infill. I ran through the hardware store yesterday and found a couple of small heavy metal plates. I have not weighted them but I'd say they are 500g together. I'll try to attach one under the lift and I'll glue one under the bed (go epoxy!) , see if it helps. I also found small rubber ring joins, generally used for plumbing, I wonder if putting one of these between the bed and washer for each screw would reduce vibration. Also, I'm going to install some feet with rubber cushion, maybe it will keep the whole machine from shaking

Oh right, I'm not used to print that fast and that hot, you guys are right. I just don't know if will be able to print such a big bridge for the top if I print the cube hollow

Cool I will try that on sunday (don't have time before) and will post photos of result here. I know you can modify the acceleration and jerk with the unticontroller but I don't know if doing mid-print works. 3 inches seems kinda big, I can already see ringing on the 20 mm cube from thingiverse.

wow thanks for that very detailed explanation, very helpful! So, I guess I'll try lower values for max jerk (default is 20 indeed), see if it helps. So you think lowering the acceleration won't change much? I tried various belt tensions but it did not seem to affect ringing. But flat surfaced print much better with tight belts. I like the box of sand idea but a bit over the top But I'll try adding weight to the lift just too see.

C'est pourquoi j'utilise uniquement l'ulticontroleur et pas l'usb. Il y a deja tellement de facteurs qui peuvent faire foirer une impression, que si je peux eliminer ceux dus a un plantage pc ou une erreur de connection, c'est toujours ca.

nevermind, after more research, I found my answers, going to try what he says: http://blog.lincomatic.com/?p=773 But if you guys have some input, I'm interested. Any one has experience with glueing some heavy part to the print bed to keep it from shaking (something I have read, not sure if that's such a problem, I would expect more vertical shaking that horizontal from the bed)?

Hi, first of all, I'm not sure if I should post this to the marlin forum or here, but I think this sub forum gets more views, so I post here. I'm very happy with my printer, I'm improving the print quality every day, the only thing that bugs me now is some ringing effect. I don't mind doing some sanding, but ringing happens when the head takes sharp turns, which generally means in detailed and complex areas, which I either don't want to sand off or are too hard to reach with sandpaper. I thought that having belts tensed properly would solve it, but not really. I did some research on this forum and the solutions I found were either to put some weight on the print bed to keep it from vibrating, or to modify the acceleration and jerk in firmware. I'm going to try both. Since the acceleration and jerk values can be modified directly on the ulticontroler, I want to try that first before messing with the firmware. I lowered acceleration from 5000 to 2000, I don't know if that's not enough or too much. Same thing for jerk, don't know much about it so I googled it and I found only little info about it. But I understood it's the speed when moving from a segment to the next one, which could actually be what causes the most ringing in case of 90* angles. I want to lower it but I don't want to lower it more than necessary and loose too much speed. What do you guys recommend? 10 mm/s? 5?

oh ok, you used acetone on ABS, I thought it was PLA. I'm interested in printing with ABS just for that reason, but I don't have a heated bed yet

A little thing that I liked from the old cura that is no longer available: when you focused the cura window that already had a model loaded, it automatically detected if the source model had been changed and asked you if you wanted to updated, keeping transfomation. It's a tiny feature but it really increased workflow when you wanted to fix errors in your model. Combined with the autoslice, it would be great. I know it would not be that simple with multiple models on the print bed Also, I might be wrong, but think that when using the brim or raft , the supports are not taken into account, they are are printed directly on the plate. As a result they don't stick very well and the smaller ones fall off. I remember the old version would generate rafts for the supports too.

Very nice, very smooth surface. What kind of post-processing did you apply? good-ol' sandpaper or some chemical?

Celui de Faberdashery a bonne reputation aussi, je ne l'ai encore pas essaye. Sinon j'ai vu ca dans une discussion sur le google group http://www.formfutura.com/3d-printing/filaments/sandstone-1.75mm-3mm/laybrick.html C'est du sandstone, un des matieriaux proposes par shapeways. Avec ca les prints ne ressemblent plus a du plastique mais a de la pierre, et ca l'air de s'imprimer comme du PLA. Ca m'interesse, je vais peut etre m'en commander une bobinne

well it seems that your model is made of intersecting objects, that are not merged together. The slicer does not handle those properly. You must merge everything is one single continuous mesh, using boolean operation for example. I think the latest version of cura has a quick fix for intersecting objects in the expert options, but I have not tried it yet. Oh and the hair on top of the head will never print

C'est chouette que ca s'arrange pour toi. Si tu veux te lancer dans la tete custom : http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1877-e3d-all-metal-hotend-for-ultimaker/ Mais bon, je persiste a dire, essaye d'abord la version officiel, voir si ca suffit a tes besoins avant de te lancer dans des modifications lourdes. Moi j'arrive a imprimer a 0.06mm sans modification de la tete

well, my pyro bust failled after 34 or 35 hours of printing and it took another 5 to 6 hours to finish it, so about 40 hours total. If I had printed with no infill, chances are it would have printed it successfully in one take in a dozen hours

best dad ever

I tried yesterday to print with no infill, 3 loops (so 1.2mm shell), 0.1mm per layer, 50mm/s, 210* and it worked fine. I used supports though. It's super light and seems strong enough for sanding. The model printed in 3 hours. The same model took 7 hours the day before with 20% infill! (it'a a tall cylindrical air tank for my pyro) I will try with 2 loops next time. If it turns to be reliable, I might only use infill for parts that need to support weight, the legs of a character for instance (however if the rest of the model is so light, it might not even be needed)