jameshs

Wow - in London - I store mine open all the time and never have any bad effects. Personally I would do the long slow oven - or even in news paper in the fridge (fridges are really dry environments!) or just in dry cardboard for a while. Skip the vacuum - does not work. James

I run a um original with no heated bed and glass plates - I have blue tape under the glass plate and a small 3mm spacer to fool the end switch when I have glass on. I use dilute PVA - I probably print for about amonth or so before I wash and re-coat the beds. That is for PLA - for XT I use the tape and get no warping, but I want XT to be as easy as PLA - so I am going to install the upgrade and see what happens (I have 2 UM classics so if the heated bed is no good for XT I will still have the cold glass/blue tape set up) While I am always impressed at the accuracy - I am curious to see if the z-stage improvements will be worth it without the heated bed. So I love having both glass and blue tape available - if I don't like the HB then I can just use the same glass sheets I have now - it has just dawned on me that I could put blue tape on the underside and then have a removable blue tape plate But I really like having an OEM heatbed option. James

does the polished object stay shiny or do you have to spray it to keep the polish?

Love the spreadsheet - i am trying to put together UK sources/Prices for some of the components Love the name Daedalus - it may be that Ultimaker does not want yo use the word Ulti - but if they do ti could be the Ulti-Daedalus. There could then be several versions that take their name from the myth. The base model perhaps being the Daedalus, The waterproof model being Icarus (or ulti-icarus) Daedalus created the labarynth in which the Minatour was kept - part man part bull - so perhaps this could be the biggest, most powerful part quad part camera What is really nice is that things of quality are called daidala which is a great description for a family of copters but there is more as he 'invented (this is myth after all) "agalmata, statues of the gods which had open eyes and moveable limbs" - what better description of a quadcopter with folding arms and a camera. So some good synergies there from Sander! James

I think that the bulge is because you have a higher pressure in the nozzle - that small z lift allows a bit of a bleed. In s3d you can specify a random z - more like a spiralize, and you get the same benefit with no blob. James

Hi Fordy, Welcome to the community (from West London ) Just jump in with any questions and show us your prints - the flexy is quite hard to print with - go super slow to begin with as I found it needed much slower speeds and a bit more heat to get good layer adhesion. It is 'flexible' as opposed to rubbery - for rubber you need to think Ninjaflex, but for that you need to read all the extruder update threadsssssss The more you push the boundaries the more you need the forum - but I am continuously amazed at the boundaries - to see the kind of detail these things can print have a look at the fairphone cases (do a search) and how to print them - amazing! James

been there, done that - need to get into my inventor thread tables and adjust them for clearance for printing, unless someone has already done it

Hi Nick - Faberdashery gets a good write up for those that use them. I also use lots of Colorfabb materials. (yes they have to come from Holland) It is worth noting that PLA is much easier to print than ABS and has smell advantages etc - but for strength I hear ABS is superior. I use Colorfabb XT for strong stuff and get good results - I am about to upgrade to a heated bed for my UM1 as XT does warp a bit - but prints more like PLA So have a go with a few different filaments - if your machine is mission critical then use filaments like woodfill with caution as these are more prone to block nozzles - on the UM1 I have lots of spares so a quick swap out is possible - not sure if this trick works on a UM2 I may well be at TCT! James

no heatbed in the shop YET - I'm gonna open a ticket! only kidding! James

Last time I used UM's flexible PLA it was flexible - but not rubber like. But the UM can print ninjaflex which is rubber like and for small things like the O ring could probably be good - even better if an O ring is used in conjunction with a gasket. I would think that the issues of water should be addressed by making sure that the bits that need the most water resistance are heavily protected - and the rest is designed so that a landing on water is done so the drone sits with no seams in contact with the water. As these are not going to submerge the pressure should not be too great - and ironically there should be pressure relief to allow for heating/cooling cycles (I am a rower and we have small holes in our buoyancy chambers as boats have been known to explode in hot weather) James

George, That sounds like a good way to go - I might build one by hand to begin to understand the whole thing and then look at the printed design options. James

I am all for someone helping to define a kit of parts (of which I have no knowledge at all), which I think has to be the FIRST port of call - then from a common set of parts we can have a family of frame designs - and it would be great if things were then interchangeable with a few clever clicks - waterproofable with an add on case, wheels on the side (subframe) different leg designs if a gopro/gimbol is fitted - but if the 'core' component(s) are kept to one or two versions then we could start cracking James

Waterproof is definately on my agenda. Woofy - love the design, but echo the assembly comments - looks to me like your central module is great - the waterproof enclosure for the central gear, and a screw down dome, but most quads that i have seen seem to use an open beam design that could connect to the central enclosure and allow mods to the legs and motor mounts. From what I have read the central electronics needs to be proofed. ESCs need to have a heat sink connection to the outside air, motors can get wet. No idea what the disadvantages are to having longer cables from ESCs to the motors - is there a loss there? If the escs can be brought into the centre of the bot then can they be mounted on one large heatsink? i guess we should start to think about a parts list as setting out can then use some standard sizes? James

I always think it is worth having a few new nozzles on hand - we do pit them through tough times Drilling out is good - I have drilled out to 0.65mm and for 'draft' printing it works well - oh, and for ninjaflex I use th elarger hole size with good results. To drill it out was slightly tricky - I bought a good pin vice chuck - a proper one with moving jaws - the cheap ones are no good at all. Put it in my hand drill within has a pillar drill stand. Drilled a hole in MDF and screwed the nozzle tight into it until I had seated it at 90 degrees (i.e. perpendicular to the drill bit.) Then wearing my best glasses I slowly drilled through the nozzle tip - quite tricky with a steady hand! Clean the chips of brass off and you are ready to go! I find with some filament I need less heat, and some I need more - but I can do layer heights of about 0.25 and single walls and for some of the architectural models I do this reduces print times from 12 hours to 3 hours - slightly cruder, but they completely do what I need them to. Don't forget to change your settings - I have profiles for filaments and nozzle sizes. James

Have to say that I was not too impressed with the UM stand - I was on the 3dhubs stand as one of their hubs, and if anyone came past our stand we were all over them like a rash - when I went on the UM stand and stood looking at the UM2 for a while I was left alone while they chatted on the stand - and ended up not talking to anyone :( But was very impressed at some of the other stands that had UMs - they seemed to be everywhere! it might be worth, in future, having UM users on the stand (I did the 3dhubs for a morning for a free show pass ) as we really really know the products. James

It is a question I always ask myself as I take pride on being fairly trinket light but having my printer(s) running as hard as I can. I am on the 3Dhubs stand for the London Printshow and so have been throwing a few things together to take and realise how many things in my life are printed A holder for clamping my dremel to the desk Various bits and bobs christmas decorations, cookie cutters, jewelery, plant pot holders, plant dishes architecural models and I was commissioned to print and make a e-nable talon hand to take to China to encourage them to get into 3d printing! There are heaps more things I use for rowing and attaching things to the boat etc. Everyday I need something small to help do something else and just turn to inventor and then print it out! My hub orders so far have been very practical - and the fairphone case is a good example of a real-world use. I was amazed the other day that I have only had my printer a year as it is so indispensable to releasing my brain from all the objects that used to clutter it up - even if it is more quantity than quality! James

D'oh, Found it on their website - search for devantech on the playstore! hanks James

Hi Woffy, I can't find IO network on the playstore? - does it have a longer name? Thanks James

what is your hub ID? I had a few months of nothing then 3dhubs gave some advice on setting up the hub, photos and ran a review test of the marvin print and things started rolling - not a way to get rich, but pays for new filament. I think that the space is becoming more crowed though and the search seems to be on location rather than skill, but the guys at 3dhubs are really developing things all the time - so worth spending some time trying to make your landing page pretty. Here are my early efforts - about to update because of printshow! http://www.3dhubs.com/london/hubs/jameshsx

if you print too high with PLA it can look like under extrusion - and you up the temp (did this yesterday) I dialled back the temp (to 210 for a Colofabb PLA) and back to good infill and normal printing. Try to do the bottom layer hot (220) and then back to 210 for normal printing? each filament is different - so move the temps around. I am using a cold glass plate on a UM1 so check your plate temp is low for PLA James

George, What is your twitter handle? James

I like BOTH options - but would prefer option 1 - waterproof and gopro as I want to fly filming over water and in the rain - but would love it to have foldable arms. IMHO foldable is fine rather than spring operated as I believe in the KISS principle. Would be good to have two platforms under development - there has to be heaps of crossover ?? James

I will be there on Friday Morning on the 3DHubs stand (They have asked some of their hub "makers"s to populate their stand) - some and say hello if you are there! James

A picture of the model would help as the words do not create an image in my mind. Convex can work flat but the last bit tends to fail. However, do not underestimate side printing with a brim - bit to make it work you would normally want to print slow and fairly cool. Enough infill for strength and no more - perhaps none if you use two or three perimeters. James

Voted I think that UM - despite the teething issues experienced in a growing company, and perhaps because they are human, has managed to tread that tricky line between offering a prosumer and a tinkerer's product. Sander - I only disagree with your focus on the UM2 as the UM Classic is still a blistering machine - the more I use it and push my knowledge, the more I am amazed at how an assembly of laser cut ply and some vitamins can produce such a wide variety of outputs. I have a 3dhub and through feature request like the fairphone case, and UM's own certification test pieces I have had my cnowledge of printing and materials pushed to its limit - and just when I think I have dialled the printer in, a new challenge comes along that pushes the settings even harder (moving parts) and shows me that there are even more depths to the capability. So far I am not attracted to the UM2 as I love the hands on of the UM1 but am happy that the company continues to support us tinkerers (so looking forward to the heated bed ) and I really hope that UM stays with this approach (there are pitfalls for those who don't - witness the large number of paperweights that MB is shipping!) I also love the Kammermaker - saw it in operation - and think this kind of research and development is essential to the whole area of 3d printing and UM's development. Keep at it James