ahoeben

You may notice that in Cura, some settings are indented. The indented settings are "more specific" versions of their parents. The slicer actually only looks at the more specific version, and the less specific version is only there as a convenience for the user.
 
In the case of "Retraction speed", there are more specific speeds for the actual retraction and for the priming ("unretracting"). If you set the "Retraction speed" setting, then that normally sets both the "Retraction Retract Speed" and the "Retraction Prime Speed". If you, or the profile, put a specific value in either one of those settings, than the "Retraction Speed" setting is no longer used for that particular setting. If you, or the profile, put a specific setting in both the "Retraction Retract Speed" and the "Retraction Prime Speed", then the value of "Retraction Speed" would no longer be used at all (because both settings that use its value are getting overridden). To visually show that the value is not used, Cura disables the setting. Once the more specific versions both have their own values, the more generic setting is simply irrelevant.

Looking at the pictures again it could also be that you enabled the "Mold" setting. In that case, your model could be fine. Again, hard to tell for sure without seeing a project file.

You could always add an additional "Search and Replace" script to change "M0 ; Wait for Pause" to "M0 S30 ; Wait for Pause"

The materials downloaded from the Marketplace only include profiles for Ultimaker printers. They will not show up at all for printers that use 1.75mm filaments.

Only if you specifically made a backup. See Extensions -> Cura Backups.

It looks like you are using my Sidebar GUI plugin. There seems to be a problem with the latest version of that plugin that causes this issue:
https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-SidebarGUIPlugin/issues/42
 
You can download the previous version of the plugin - which AFAIK does not have this bug - here:
https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-SidebarGUIPlugin/releases/tag/v4.5.0
Download the .curapackage and drop it onto the Cura buildplate as if you were opening a model.

Please be more specific than "cannot be printed". What happens when you try? Ofcourse we can try to see if something goes wrong when we load the project, but in this case for example a screenshot would have been helpful. Help us help you.
 
When I load your 3mf project, it looks like Cura thinks the model has some geometry at its original origin. You can see that from the "shadow" that is way too large. I used the "Split model into parts" function of the MeshTools plugin (available from the Marketplace) to separate that phantom part from the wing part. This made Cura realise the true footprint of the part so it could fit on the buildplate.
 
 

You have to realize what the "Hole Horizontal Expansion" setting does, and that Cura is neither magic nor can it read your mind.
 
Both "Horizontal Expansion" settings only work on the layer level. To understand how they work, you would have to look at a slice layer by layer. The "Horizontal Expansion" setting tries to expand or "grow" each layer (as opposed to  "scale" the layer). Typically the outside gets bigger and holes in the layer get smaller. Scaling would make the holes bigger.
 
The "Hole Horizontal Expansion" setting applies the same type of expansion on holes, but leaves outside walls as is. And here's where the "not magic" and the "not reading your mind" bit comes in. Cura regards the rectangular void in the layer as a hole. It does not know that you only meant the smaller circular parts. If you would look at one of the layers where the two circular holes in your screenshot seem to affect the hole horizontal expansion, you'll notice that the rectangular area is in contact with the outside wall. As an effect, Cura does not see that section as a (rectangular) hole in those layers so it does not get expanded. Hence the change in hole dimensions.
 
So what to do in your case, where you want to expand some holes, but not all of them? You could add meshes (either from a support blocker, or another mesh you load) to overlap the holes you want to have expanded, and use the "Per Model Settings" tool to change the Horizontal Hole Expansion setting only where the added model overlaps your original model.
 
You may also want to look in to the "Slicing Tolerance" setting.

Without seeing the model it is hard to tell for sure, but chances are the model is "non-manifold", which confuses Cura. Basically Cura looses track of what is "inside" or "outside" the walls of the structure. I always thinks this is a good explanation:
https://github.com/Ghostkeeper/SettingsGuide/blob/master/resources/articles/troubleshooting/missing_parts.md#non-manifold-meshes
 
Your model would need to be "repaired". 3d Builder, which comes with Windows 10 and 11, often does a decent job at repairing meshes (but it too can get confused about what you actually meant the model to be like).

In the Machine Settings in the Printers pane of the preferences, make sure the "Origin at center" option is not checked.

Yes. The "tune" settings start at what is currently printing. You change the "live" value.
 
I think that once the gcode file specifies a new temperature or cooling fan value, that may override what you tuned. The speed change in the tune menu works a bit different than the other two values you mention and it is mostly a "multiplier" for the speeds in the gcode.

The "add network printer" is (effectively) for Ultimaker printers only. Though just about any printer that has a USB port can be controlled with the same "protocol", just about all printer manufacturers came up with their own protocol to communicate via the network. Cura only knows about the Ultimaker network printing protocol.
 
There are some plugins that add other network printing protocols (eg via OctoPrint, Moonraker/Klipper, Creality Cloud), but even those generally don't integrate with the "add network printer" UI but have you connect Cura to the network printer in some other way.

You have the "Make Overhang Printable" setting enabled. This effectively fills in the area below overhangs.

We need to see your Cura.log to know what GPU is being used.
See Help -> Show configuration folder and find cura.log.

Correct. The minimum OpenGL version for full functionality is OpenGL 4.1

The blue lines here a brim lines. This happens because these letters have an "island" inside them, and Cura gets a little confused about what is the inside and what is the outside of the first layer.
 
Since this print is very round, you could try printing it with a skirt instead of a brim.

Not for Cura itself. Cura itself does not use the registry at all.
 
There's a registry entry for the uninstaller, and some (optional) packages that get installed with Cura, such as the Microsoft Visual C++ runtime, and the "Arduino" serial port driver for USB printing probably have some registry entries.
 
You can open the installer in a zip application (eg 7zip), extract the files from there and run Cura without installing the runtime and driver. That way the registry is not touched.

I think that the major thing that goes wrong is that there are a lot of values that are getting calculated in the UI, which are not calculated in your command-line usage. CuraEngine does not understand Python, so "value" fields in the .def.json need to be evaluated.

Your model is not "manifold". See this explanation:
https://github.com/Ghostkeeper/SettingsGuide/blob/master/resources/articles/troubleshooting/missing_parts.md#non-manifold-meshes
 
You could try loading the model in 3d Builder. It will tell you that it is "invalidly defined" and will offer to repair it.

The materials in the Marketplace only come with profiles for Ultimaker printers and as a result only show up in Cura for  printers that use 2.85mm materials,

The layers of the vertical part are simple, so they don't take long enough for the material to solidify before the next layer is printed. There is a setting called "minimum layer time". You could try increasing that. Another way to work around these fast layers is to print multiple of the same object at the same time.
 
Here's a more indepth explanation from the Settings Guide plugin:
https://github.com/Ghostkeeper/SettingsGuide/blob/master/resources/articles/cooling/cool_min_layer_time.md

Cura is doing what you are telling it to do.
 
The "Dynamic Quality" profile (and custom profiles based on it) have the "Use Adaptive Layers" setting enabled. That setting varies the layer height to get nice rounded geometry without "topography lines", while not taking too long on straight parts of the print. Read more about it here:
 
https://github.com/Ghostkeeper/SettingsGuide/blob/master/resources/articles/experimental/adaptive_layer_height_enabled.md
 
You can either pick another profile or turn off the Use Adaptive Layers option.

If you change a setting in the "Print Settings" floater (on the right of your screenshot), that always overrides what is set in the Materials pane of the preferences.
 
If you do not have a value set in the "Print Settings" floater (and the profile you have selected doesn't either), then the value set in the Materials pane of the preferences should carry over in the "Print Settings" floater. However, it is very possible that the profile you have selected overrides the value from the material.

Here's a listing:
http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/Replacement_Patterns.html
 
Most of this list is a "transmogrification" of the fdmprinter.def.json and fdmextruder.def.json files that are part of Cura.

It is better to use the "Extensions -> Start optimsier -> Restore all configuration files" option before disabling the plugin. Otherwise, if you at some point re-enable the plugin, your new printer configuration may break (because its definitions and profiles are once again not loaded).
 
Only when you tell it to though...