Nicolinux

I loosened the four screws too and printed a test cube. Look at the pattern. Looks as if it is inverted diagonally.

How could one test that? You mean the downward pressure of the bowden tube on the teflon piece right? Or the bowden tube in general? If the four long screws are super tight, I can still remove the bowden clip, press down the tube coupling collet and slide the bowden tube out without any resistance.

So? What is causing the problem then? Something that pushes on the bowden tube or teflon piece and increases the tension in a weird way?

Btw. I didn't remember all firmware names/numbers. If you find a complete list, please change the poll or tell me to do it.

Hey Bas, I think the problem lies elsewhere since different UM2 owners with seemingly identical feeders, still have very different results. I suspect a firmware problem or a combination of bad pulleys and bent rods. I wanted to test the rods for ages but now that my 3DR Delta build is finished and I need to fine tune it, I got sidetracked. However, for the firmware idea, a few posts ago I asked around about the combination of firmwares used. But in order to structure the data a bit more, I have started a new thread/poll. I see there are 12 people following this thread so please be so kind and vote here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8336-um2-top-surface-firmware-poll/

Hi, In order to structure data on a possible cause for top surface problems on prints with the UM2, I have started this poll. For more informations please see: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5375-top-layers-not-touching-um2/

Just for reference since I might have the same issue. I can print the cylinder test up to 12-13mm/s^2 and the nozzle temp is fine (did the boiling water test - not very accurate but still).

Ah ok. I don't do that. It is too tedious to have to change the filament settings for every print. When I slice something I do think about it and set everything I need.

Don't know. Just printed with your gcode. I didn't change any print settings.

I am using the Rumba board. But I remember that you can use RAMPS without problems. There is also an adapter somewhere.

I've printed the gcode files too: calibc.gcode Has some nice pillowing but otherwise the surface is tight. calibration_cube.gcode Surface is not tight and the strands are evenly spanced

Well that was a shitty first time experience with the E3D hotend :/ The stupid fanduct was loose and could be moved around. It looks like the part is too big for the aluminium body. I asked about it on the E3D forums and got this answer: http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=280 Pretty lame for such a "great" hotend. While implementing the fix I didn't notice that the fan duct would be pushed outwards so much that when the fan is clamped onto it, it also bends. This damaged the fan beyond repair. The rotor is now connected with only one leg to the frame. It may or may not rotate freeley. After removing the worst clog ever it is 3am here in Germany and I won't try to print further. Damn, and I was so close to the first print... I will post fotos as soon as I have printed something. If you need help in the mean time, just ask.

Oh by the way. When you assemble the hotend, take a look at this video in order to prevent further clogs:

Nice design. I went with this coupler: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285405 By the way - on my first print I forgot to turn on the hotend fan. After a few minutes there was already a clog. Had to take the hotend apart to clean it :(

I am using an E3D hotend too. And now that I am done with building the printer - I juuuuust need to calibrate it. Today there will be printing!

Or are you beta testing Mosaic? http://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com

I downloaded you gcode files. The "calibc.gcode" looks wonky though. If I import the settings in Cura 14.07, it shows me a layer height of .05 which would be 0.05. Top/bottom set at 0.6.

Hreedijk, Could you post your print settings for this part? It looks perfect! thx.

According to Rich it is 150mm: http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/3dr-reprap-delta-printer-part-2.html Keep in mind that if you use longer rods, you loose build height. The hotend can't reach the very top due to the axis geometry. Your build height will be roughly half the length of the aluminium profiles. I made the mistake to choose the default length. If I'd build another 3DR I would go for 500mm build height...

Hi, I have posted a question related to yours (about the full step length on an UM2 stepper). Maybe useful to counter z-wobble: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8281-relation-between-full-step-length-and-layer-height/

I am setting up my 3DR delta printer and while tinkering with Slic3r I came across this statement regarding z-wobble and how to counter it: Source: http://manual.slic3r.org/troubleshooting/troubleshooting#z-wobble The question is - what is the full step length for an UM2 stepper?

I am pretty sure this is again one of those weird issues where most others think we are crazy and then it turns out it is a software/hardware issue after all (like the Cura issue where the z - height was not consistent between prints and everyone thought we just couldn't level the damn bed properly...)

@gr5: Apart from the first big pictures, all other pictures are hidef enough to spot the problem. His point is that with any combination of print settings a layer height of 0.2 seems to always produce a top surface that's not tight. Where as the red cube (layer height 0.1) has an almost perfect top surface. I say almost perfect because in the top right corner, the strands begin to drift apart again. I have the _exact_ same issue. I didn't make to connection between layer height and this problem but I will test it.

Hi Chris, I bought my stepper motors from my-home-fab.de, but I guess that's not an option for your since it is based in Europe/Germany. I don't know about your steppers but regarding to Rich you'd need these: 4 x NEMA17 Stepper Motor's - ideally over 1.2M versions (look for 1.7A or 2.5A) max 50mm Long body. Btw, nice Razer keyboard

Hey Randy, It is not my video, I just linked it. I think the shininess comes from the materials used inside the tumbler. The original video creator trieds some shiny silverish stuff. Maybe give that a try.