Nicolinux

This looks very weird indeed. Can you post your print settings. Did you set the nozzle size correctly? And which printer are you using? Ultimaker Original or Ultimaker 2?

Ok, this sounds like the nozzle is blocked. If you don't succeed with the "atomic method", then I fear you need to take the head apart and clean out the nozzle with a hot flame (careful so you don't melt the metal). Atomic method is described here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the

Oh come on, don't be mean. Their system is totally sound. My foot is as big as your foot for sure

Diff is my friend but Deal!

Hi, since you mentioned the atomic method - are you able to push filament at all through the nozzle (by hand)? Also if you look from the top (when the bowden tube is disconnected), can you see the small nozzle orifice where the ambient light shines through?

Hi Marcus, könntest du ein kurzes Video davon machen und bei Youtube (unlisted) hochladen? Dann könnten wir besser helfen. Grundsätzlich sollte es nicht rattern - es könnte vielleicht etwas mit dem Zahnriemen zu tun haben. Kannst du den Druckkopf von hand leicht in allen Richtungen bewegen?

Very nice, I like it. Since I need to customize the firmware anyway (PID mode vs. bangbang), maybe you could publish yours. Since you stay close to the official branch, it should be easy to merge new changes when an official version is released.

Hi, das kommt mir bekannt vor. So sieht das muster auch bei mir aus (weiter runter scrollen): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5375-top-layers-not-touching-um2/?p=73462

I can't see the specs for the bowden tube you mentioned. You'd need to know the inner and outer diameter. But why not cut a little piece? It is easy. I just did it a few days ago for my 3DR printer. Granted it was a bowden tube for 1.75mm filament - but if you use a very sharp blade - I don't see why there should be a big difference.

Hi, mit dem orginal Spulenhalter messe ich bei mir ~47cm. Und in der Höhe (mit bowden tube) sind es etwa 58cm.

Shurik, just cut a little piece from your bowden tube (about 10mm) so that the bad part moves down and ouf of the way of the coupling collet.

Hier ist ein Beitrag dazu (mit Bild): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6907-horizontal-banding-on-um2/?p=75660

Oh btw. Happy Birthday Gerry!

That is indeed scarry. That's one reason I don't stay logged-in when surfing (Google and Facebook).

Hi, hast du danach ein Testobjekt gedruckt z.B. eine 0.1mm dicke Schicht um zu sehen ob das Bild noch so fleckig ist?

Ich habe noch etwas vergessen. Man muss noch eine Datei aus der Arduino IDE editieren. Hier ist eine genauere Anleitung: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7807-main-links-for-marlin-firmware/&do=findComment&comment=73025

Hi, was die Kallibrierung der Druckfläche angeht bin ich mir nicht sicher wie man es machen kann (außer über das leveling). Aber du könntest einne Blick in die Aufbauanleitung des UM2 werfen und so ggf. sehe wie das Druckbett befestigt ist. Vielleicht ist dort etwas nicht in Ordnung: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf Ansonsten um das Heizen des Druckbettes auf PID umzustellen, müsstest du die UM2 firmware von hier herunterladen: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin und mit der Arduino IDE öffnen. Dann die Configuration.h auswählen und in Zeile 227 dies einkommentieren: #define PIDTEMPBED Danach könntest du den UM2 per USB anschliessen und oben links mit dem Button mit dem Pfeil nach rechts die Firmware hochladen. Ich würde danach über das UM2 Display ein "factory reset" machen.

@gr5: I didn't know about the Jumper series. Nor the others (except for the movie...). Thanks for the recommendation. Will be very useful over the next two weeks

Me too. It is on my absolute top ten list http://nicolinux.org/game-dev/my-all-time-favorite-games-ever/

I am not complaining... I love it and I will keep using it. I am using the shorter yoke, the longer one would press the ball bearing too hard against the knurled bolt (at least with the spring and screw that I have here). My UM2 is roughly 3 months old (it had the semi-old feeder without a metal grommet).

As many of you already use Robert's great feeder: https://youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two I thought it would be a good idea to collect feedback in one place. Here is mine: I have a newer UM2 which uses a very strong feeder spring. In oder to use Roberts feeder one has to use a 35mm M3 screw with it. With a 30mm screw you'd have too much tension on the spring and a 40mm screw is too long an would touch the ball bearing. One thing is weird though. I tried quite a few variations of spring tension but I am unable to have the feeder stepper spring back when there is too much back pressure. It always grinds filament. Interestingly my problem with top surfaces on objects got worse with the new feeder which is weird because the feeder is great in so many ways. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5375-top-layers-not-touching-um2/?p=82613

I left the retraction settings untouched in Slic3r. As for the original feeder - there aren't many parts you need. I've got the hobbed bolt somwhere off ebay I think and the ball bearings too. The only custom made part was cut by onkelgeorg which is just a short piece from a smooth rod. The other screws and nuts I had here. But to be honest I can't imagine why the feeder would lead to clogs. I guess you calibrated it before printing (like disconnecting the bowden tube, moving filament a set amount and then measuring the real distance it traveled). Other than that the feeder can either move too much or too less. If it moves to much filament, then it starts skipping or grinding. Maybe the culprint is really the hotend itself. Did you contact E3D?

I find XT harder to print than PLA. Had to fiddle with the print settings to get a decent quality. When XT is left near the nozzle (or some residue remains on the nozzle itself), it tends to form dark spots that look like they could wonderfully clog the nozzle. I can't say this for sure because I haven't printed with XT that much - it is just a guess. Regarding the feeder tension - maybe the spring inside the feeder got stuck and you un-stuck it when you changed its tension.

Ok, that could be it but I never have seen the seam and by now I have printed all designs. I am using Cura 14.07.

I think it hides the z-scar on the left inner part of the case. At least I never perceived the seam as a problem.