Nicolinux

This looks like grinding where the feeder at the back of the machine pushes too hard and eventually the filament gives in and the knurled bolt on the stepper motor eats away the filament. This will certainly lead to underextrusion (less filament than expected) and also the teflon piece will have a hard(er) time when buldges like that pass through it.

Sounds familiar. I managed to get a single clog with the E3D but it was my fault. I forgot to have fan0 run all the time. Other than that I don't know why it would could clog so often. Maybe the temperature sensor readings are wrong and the feeder tries to move filament although it is not hot enough. I saw a video where you use a sharpener to take out the edge of the bowden tube so it can travel a bit further down in the metal socket. Maybe try that too.

I am retweeting!

Along with good manners and passion for slow things. No - when a gentleman reaches a certain age, those things regain their former value

So I switched to Robert's feeder but the issue still remains: Stock feeder: Robert's feeder:

Thanks for the info. You know, we do all sorts of tricks to improve quality but really, the hardware should handle it. There is no justification to print PLA up to 250°. It should print fine as low as 200° or even 210° - regardless of the filament. What we are doing here is trying to overcome some problems that shouldn't be there in the first place.

The value you are looking for is "MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS". That's the distance from the nozzle to the bed. I choose a smaller value like 236mm in order to allow for negative endstop offsets (moving the nozzle down). Remember the calibration workflow where you have to constantly move the nozzle to one tower, then down and then adjust the offset until the nozzle is a paper width away from the bed. Then repeat this for all towers. Then check the center. If the nozzle is too high, you'd need to increase DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET. Then start the workflow anew... The other _POS values are derived from a heated bed radius of 70mm. Although my heated bed has a diameter of 170mm, due to the short arms the nozzle can only reach to about 140mm diameter - hence the 70mm radius.

We are all using the Rumba board. That's another thing you have to change in the Configuration.h Sorry, forgot to mention it... Depending on your hardware configuration it is MOTHERBOARD 33, 34, 35 or 36.

Yes it is.

Just a side note - I now have a 3DR Delta printer and I see the very same issues with bang-bang vs. PID mode. The surface quality is worse with bang-bang mode. I am using http://www.euclidframeworks.com/products/hbp/ heated bed, a Rumba board and a 12V/30A power supply.

Daid, just a quick question. If I want to change a little something in the UM2 firmware but otherwise stay in sync with your releases, I just need to check out the latest "release" from: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin ... and generate a hex file right? All settings are set and I don't need to scurry around in Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h to add missing settings? thx.

People, stop calling this thing pluggable unicorn!!! It sounds way too kinky (color and shape does not really help) Thanks for the update! Very much appreciated. This transparent way of handling updates does help us to wait patiently for the new versions.

Hi, I'd like to start a thread where we collect Cura profiles for printing Fairphone cases. Here is mine (for the UM2): https://www.dropbox.com/s/jeao0ajkduox8ix/cura_fairphone_um2_profile.ini?dl=0 It takes about 1.5 hours to finish (printing at 30mm/s and 210°) and there is no postprocessing needed! Here are two photos (printed with Faberdashery translucent green):

I have started a thread where we can collect Cura profiles for Fairphone cases: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8630-fairphone-cura-profile/

Wow, nice find. I can't believe it is that easy because someone else with this issue would have used Robert's feeder (which is pretty popular). But I'll try it too. Wanted to change the feeder anyway.

Thanks guys. @Jonny: Well I didn't think too much about the Igus bushings. Maybe I was lucky because they fit perfectly. The smooth rods rattle a bit but they did that before with the cheap LM6UU's too. The build plate is from here: https://www.reprapsource.com/en/show/7007 http://www.euclidframeworks.com/products/hbp/ The hbp doesn't fit so I created an adapter that uses the holes that are already present in the 3DR base: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:530534

Same here but those other missing perks do tend to move the WAF higher up on the list of priorities

My happy (toilet) corner got even happier now I finished building the 3DR Delta printer.

That's how it looks now (the three caps at the top are missing because I needed to increase the tension on the spectra line).

It took 2-3 weeks but in the end I could have had it from day one (after the build was finished)... There is a tuning workflow for delta printers that ensures the nozzle maintains its height when it travels above the bed. I started with this workflow but I could never get it to the point where it was stable. So I fiddled quite a lot with the settings - most notably DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET. I even built a z-probe and added it to the head hoping that it would compensate for any build errors I was having. Because it looked like a build error (skewed assembly, bad plastic parts or something like that) was the only possible answer. When I tried to print, the first layer would never stick and just catch on to the nozzle. I never tried to print directly after I turned the printer on. I always did move the head/nozzle via gcode just to test movement. But as soon as I tried to print right after turning it on - it was perfect... WTF?! There is one key component though. I ditched the LM6UU linear bearings and bought Igus bushings: http://www.igus.eu/wpck/2407/DryLin_R_Lineargleitlager (part name: RJZM-01-06). The printer is much quiter and the movement of the arms is very smooth now. They're not cheap though.

And you should start a Fairphone thread too. I guess quite a lot of us signed up at 3D Hubs and print cases.

Played the Evolve beta too. It was interesting to see how some gamers could master it in such a short time. We were able to play as a full team. I think this is a great game for lan parties.

I got sidetracked a bit lately because I am building a new 3D printer (3DR Delta). The new printer - although barely tuned - does not have problems with tight surfaces. I printed this vase with the same settings (but different slicers) on the 3DR and the UM2. The 3DR one is watertight, the UM2 is not. Shell thickness is 0.4 (I used the spiralize option)!

Just printed my first pretty object with the 3DR (without a fan)

Mind the WAF with the Ultimaker on the living room table...