Nicolinux

Hi, Now that I missed the heavy weight dudes ( ), I wanted to ask if any of you will be at Euromold in november? http://www.euromold.com/

I bought this one just now: http://www.ebay.de/itm/371170263015 Wanted something small that I can put somewhere without the need to fold it out.

Oh sh... Did your monitor survive?

Thanks for the tips guys. But I should have named the thread "Better photos with the least amount of effort" But I get the hint about light. Something like this looks easy to create: http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent/

1980... when men used to get kills with skill and not having the game to mollycoddle them with autoaim...

Alright, thanks for the tips. I've got it. Didn't want to use brim (don't like it). I have increased the bed temp to 75° and set the fan to come on at 25mm. This time it stuck to the bed. The quality is ok, occasional underextrusion but I can live with it.

Blasphemy... How can you play a shooter without a mouse and keyboard?

Hi, Since many of use post photos of their prints, maybe some "pros" could share tips for better photos. I am using an iPhone 6 to take photos and put a paper bag around a Ikea lamp to difuse the light a bit. I know... very ameteurish... Thanks.

Ok, next try. This time I printed with 100% infill and at 235°. Quality is much better but now the part warps and lifts :/ Any tips for that? I'd like to avoid blue tape... EDIT: I used gluestick too

Ok, same here - forgot to mention that I had 14.07 before.

Hey guys, I don't know if this idea has been bounced around before - but which firmware version do you use? Right now I have 14.09.

I bought this heated bed: https://www.reprapsource.com/de/show/7007 Doesn't fit the 3DR directly, but one can create small adapters. I intend to print them in XT (or ABS).

Oh very nice. You took a simpler approach to the ball bearing joints - didn't think of that. We just made our own adaptor. About the rod length, I read somewhere that someone also used 220mm. You loose some build height but you can use the entire build plate in return. No resource about weight - so stick to "as light as possible"

I just wanted to write "pics or it didn't happen" but UltiArjan took care of that

Hi, Just wanted to ask if the UMO hot end isolator coupler is made of teflon only or if there is something else added like the UM2 one. thx.

Hey guys, I've canceled the trip for tomorrow :/ Sorry

Hey guys, I know it is a long shot but maybe someone from UM could pack an UMO hotend insulator for sunday. A friend of mine needs it badly. I'll pay for it of course. It is this one: https://www.ultimaker.com/products/isolator-coupler thx.

@illuminarti: Ok the sliding blocks bounce considerably. Left and right quite a lot - I'd say around 2mm height difference. The rear sliding block maybe half of that and the front sliding block not at all. @3Dmaker4U: Your thinking about eccentric pulleys is not far fetched. It is not a secret that they are pretty bad. So far I had 4 Ultimakers and they all had bad pulleys. They do the job, but I really can't understand why Ultimaker who sells machines for 1k-2k € uses pulleys that look like they only cost 10ct each... I don't think that the rod manufacturer managed to produce oval rods, but who knows. I will test it for sure. Regarding the 100% flat cube, I already printed it and it produces the same pattern as the others. It looks something like this:

Cool, thanks. Just booked the train ticket. I'll wait with the hotel reservation until tomorrow. Now, how weird would it look if I travel with a square shaped suitcase? :mrgreen:

I'd say the underextrusion test looks pretty fine. You'd know when it fails Regarding your printing problems, just open a new thread (and don't forget to post all your printing settings - like layer height, speed, temperature, top/bottom and so on).

Alright sold, I'll be there. Initially I planed to attend to our anual lan party with some close friends, but it will have to be for saturday only. Speaking of Utrecht, any tipps for a decent hotel in the neighborhood?

Tempting... so tempting. I don't beer, but the prospect of seeing some of you is indeed very tempting Hey Sander, any info where this will be in Utrecht? Want to buy a train ticket and Utrecht seems to have a lot of train stations... I guess I won't do anything terribly wrong with "Utrecht Centraal"? @Dim3nsioneer: What about monday? The day in question is this sunday right?

As you can imagine, I am very curious how it turns out too... The deltas sure look cool - also one of the main reasons for me to build it (and also as an experimental platform). To be honest I don't think I'll have the motivation to create a step by step tutorial... But Rich did a pretty good job of explaining it here: http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/3dr-reprap-delta-printer-part-1-release.html If we are to write something down, then rather some kind of errata for the official guide. And you don't need that much technical knowledge to build it. But it sure helps to be crafty since there are a few opportunities where you need to get a bit creative and drill holes through stuff or adjust parts. If you intend to build one, I can help you. I am not finished myself, still have some headaches with the (non standard) heated bed and cable routing (posted earlier about it http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7431-3dr-delta-bot-continued/?p=72813). The next step that I am looking forward to least is cutting the carbon fiber rods. I heard from a few people that they are a b***h to saw. Let's see how it turns out

Hm, hard to say since I don't have any point of reference to compare the "wobbleness". It is not overly sturdy as it wobbles. However, according to some 3DR users it produces very accurate prints and I guess that's at least some indication that the wobble is not such a big problem or that it is sturdy enough.

:evil: 20 it is. So the rods might be it eh? Ok, I have ordered a new teflon piece and bowden tube as well as another 3rd fan with higher cooling capacity. Right now I am also printing the replacement fan holder with improved air flow for the right fan. I will dismantle the head, soak the nozzle in acetone (there are some dark spots inside that I can't get out with the atomic method). I will use this opportunity and take half of the machine apart and check the rods. And while I am at it I'll try to find out why the z-screw wobbles (a bit). Whish me luck!