Nicolinux

Too bad it didn't work because I would have saved quite a lot of build height. Btw. do you have a good idea about a fan for the printed objects that does not take too much space around the micro platform and ideally blows air on both sides of the printed object? So far I have only found fan holders that are either too big or where I wouldn't believe that the air could still be squeezed through.

I can make that! Valid point for pretty everyone here on the forums. But really, how many times did I consider an object and already thought about the best printing orientation and infill percentage

Very nice. Please post your print settings.

How did you get the right ear to print that well? Did you print two at the same time?

Haha, awesome. Poor little guys were disturbed by the sudden light. But how did they get up there? Those spider mice...

Wow, this is a nice corner. When I grow up, I'd like to have one like that too

And I wanted to measure the metal thingie for ages but didn't come around to take the standard feeder apart (because I hoped Robert would be finished with the mod before that)

Hi, here are my suggestions: Fix search. Fix the way photos/media are attached to a post (it is still a hassle for such a simple task). Add gravatar support. Make quoting posts suck less (multi quoting does not really work, one has to cut/paste the "quotable box" several times). Highlight new posts better not just the box on the top right. Trim the number of sub forums - there are way too many and some are almost empty. As for the ranking system, I don't see any problems with it. Look at the reputation system of http://stackoverflow.com. I think they did it just right. It is not the number of posts that count, but rather the quality of them expressed through votes.

Hey guys, sorry for the fsckup... Total n00b with Steam groups here. I have set the group to public, so please join. http://steamcommunity.com/groups/ultimakers

Hey folks, I can't find you on Steam. But it is better to apply for an invite through steam anyway or else we'd spam this thread too much.

Steam Group - Done! http://steamcommunity.com/groups/ultimakers

Cool, I guess it uses an MK8 right? Wanted to print it too but decided to go with the stock one. Not too fond about the filament change mechanism.

These posts were split off from another thread. Hope you guys don't mind! - I Robert I PC guy too. We should start a Steam group

I'd say you have the same issue. And it is interesting to see that (whe you rotate the cubes by 180°), the pattern is the same. It gets worse on the top right (where the hot end leaves the object when the print is finished).

Same here. I don't like printing too hot because of stringing and other issues. I've built a 3DR Delta printer and I am just fine tuning it. But I can print already way colder than with the UM2 (using a E3D hot end).

To me it looks like you have "regular" underextrusion. The lines on the top surface are not evenly spaced apart and some of them are broken (or look like a dotted line). Printing hotter is just a workaround but I'd check first the usual suspects for underextrusion: Nozzle partially clogged (atomic method) Filament hard to pull by the feeder (loosen filament, use a filament guide, unspool it a bit) Bad filament with uneven diameter that gets stuck in the bowden tube (use better filament) Feeder gunked up with bits of filament (build a filament dust filter) (Old) UM2 feeder loosing bits of its housing that are transported into the nozzle and block it (print Robert's feeder) Deformed teflon piece (disassamble hot end and take a look, maybe drill out to 3mm or order a replacement) Nozzle tip deformed maybe due to excessive force applied to it - bed crashed into it or delivery fail (inspect the nozzle and make sure the tip is even and round) Unknown issue (had this two times - contact support if everything else fails) I'd also print the cylinder test by Illuminarti (or did you already?).

I didn't even see the overextrusion on the outer edges... Seems that it doesn't bother me that much I don't like increasing flow. Tried it already and it doesn't help with this issue. I do have the latest stable firmware installed (14.09.0). Also tried older firmwares. But I have this issue since day 1 (UM2 is a few months old by now). At first I didn't care much about it because I was so glad that overall underextrusion was gone. But now that everything else is perfect, I start to look closer.

Since I don't have anything in the printing queue now, I just printed the same object with default acceleration and jerk settings and temperature of 235°. Do you believe me now that there is a real issue here?

Maybe because he doesn't want it to melt in the sun light?

The small hall sensors seem to be the only ones available now. How did you attach the adapter plate? I did it with scotch tape... My 3DR is finished but I have a hell of a time tuning it. No matter what I try the nozzle won't stay parallel to the bed while traveling. There are a few variables that can be changed in firmware (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET) but it doesn't really help. I measured everything I could and the build seems to be very accurate. Out of ideas right now.

Help to find the root of this problem...

Well, 210 is not too low if the printer would work properly in this regard. Printing that hot is just a hotfix (see what I did here ) and should not be a permanent solution. Printing at high temperatures has its problems and should be avoided when not necessary.

I'd like to add another remark. We are printing quite a lot of test cubes here and talk shop about print settings and theoretical speed/volume constraints. But as you can see, this issue is real. It does happen with real prints and it is bothersome. It's not just that some of us are to dumb to choose print settings. This particular object (bathroom sign) was printed at 0.24 layer height, 50 mm/s speed and 210° temperature. The filament volume that goes through the nozzle (or at least that's pushed by the feeder) is 4.8 mm^3/s which an UM2 should handle well.

Man your desk looks cool. And it ought to be messy Regardign your E3D mount - it looks cool. I'd be very interested. Build volume is precious and your design saves quite a lot. The heater block looks dangerously close to the platform. I think it might melt the pla on longer prints.

@3DMaker4U: Yes. Lower half first, then upper half. @gr5: This particular cube was printed somewhat fast, but most of the other ones where printed around 30-40 mm/s. Here are the print settings: layer height: 0.15 shell: 0.8 bottom/top: 0.8 speed: 45 temp: 210 @Illuminarti: The first cube was printed with an acceleration of 1500 (is this the default? I can't remember). Then I printed the same cube with the same acceleration but at 0.1 layer height: And then another at 0.1 layer height but with accleration set to 700: The pattern changes but other than that, the gaps are still there.