Nicolinux

In my (limited) experience with the 3DR Delta printer I found no problems related to feeding filament. On the contrary - where as badly wound 3mm filament would cause underextrusion, the 1.75mm filament can be carelessly tossed around and the feeder would push it through the bowden without problems. But as I said - experience is limited. I guess Ultimaker has tested it before and they decided against it. I just hope they didn't ditch 1.75mm just because someone doesn't like it.

Very nice print. I think it will look very cool when polished.

Das mit 10 Grad Unterschied klingt nicht gut. Das ist zu viel. Wie hast du das getestet? Wenn die Temperatur noch stärker abweicht, hat der feeder Probleme das Filament zu bewegen. Probier mal im advanced Menü den Punkt "move material". Hier wird die Temperatur abhängig vom ausgewählten Profil benutzt. Drehe dann das Rädchen an der Front und schaue ob der feeder immer noch zurückspringt.

Ich würde sagen 120mm/s bei höchstens 240° sollte drin sein. Ich habe allerdings einen Ultimaker 2 und kann mich leider nicht mehr so gut daran erinnern wie groß die Unterschiede zum UMO waren.

Wenn es trotzdem nicht helfen sollte, musst du leider das hotend auseinander bauen. Das ist nicht so aufwändig und wird in der UM2 Aufbauanleitung beschrieben. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf?raw=true Es könnte sein dass das Teflon Stück (das weisse zwischen Düse und Filamentführung am Kopf) einen Schaden hat. Falls du es ausbaust, schaue in das Innere des Teflon Teils - dort könnte sich eine Einkerbung geblildet haben wo das filament hängen bleibt beim hin und her bewegen (retractions).

Hi, eigentlich sollte es deutlich schneller gehen. Dafür müsstest du aber auch die Temperatur erhöhen. Und dass der Drucker so stark wackelt ist auch ungewöhnlich. Wenn du kannst - nimm mal ein Video auf poste es (ungelistet) auf Youtube (und hier verlinken).

Ich habe mit dem Ultimaker 2 es noch gar nicht erlebt dass sich ein Objekt gelöst hat. Bei ganz breiten Objekten verwende ich Prittstift und verschmiere das mit einen feuchten Tuch bis eine unsichtbare Schicht übrig bleibt. Das mit dem Eisspray wäre mir zu umständlich denn man muss dann jedes Mal die Glasscheibe ausbauen. Normallerweise lassen sich die Objekte nach dem Drucken einfach abnehmen.

Hey guys, by the way - anybody playing Elite: Dangerous? Just started with the game this week and I haven't looked at Steam since then I am "Nicolinux" there and would love to fly/rob/get lost together with some of you

Yeah right...

The Go would have been a great chance to use 1.75mm filament. I know that UM wants to minimize the number of custom parts, but if the Go is a marketing machine anyway, then they should have gone through with it. I don't like 2.85mm filament. It is "stubborn" and harder to handle. Nearly poked my eye out a few weeks ago when I switched filament... I know that 1.75mm is pricier but Ultimaker is in the best position to change that. If their printers start to adopt that filament size, there is another big argument for the thinner filament. For the Go I am not that sad about the missing heated bed. The glue stick thinned down with water works wonders. And with the little dude you wouldn't print huge warping parts anyway. The Extended is very sexy but I wonder why increase the z-size "only" by 100mm? With twice that much the build size would have gone from "pretty big" to "enormous". And for an enormous build size I think those interested in it would pay the extra price easily.

No that is not needed, but it is easier for fellow Ultimaker users to get in touch with you about a test print. I am from Europe/Germany so it wouldn't make sense to print something for you and then send it the long way over the ocean But maybe someone from Ohio will chime in. There is another way to get a test print. The platform 3DHubs is working with Ultimaker to provide test prints in your area: https://www.3dhubs.com/ultimaker

You need copper grease? Nope, I don't think it is crucial.

My preferred tool is "Moment of Inspiration": http://moi3d.com It is not free but it has the most intuitive interface I have found so far.

I saw it, but I didn't have metal polish at hand nor did I want to use sandpaper. I had hoped for other ideas.

Hi, Suspecting a partial clog I have burned out my UM2 nozzle (using a bunsen burner). The nozzle is clear but the inside walls of the filament chamber are dark and I can't get them as shiny as before. What do you use to clean it? So far I tried acetone, cellulose thinner, vinegar (stuff that I had at home...). Here is a picture of two nozzles - the one on the right, is clean and shiny and the one on the left is the nozzle in question: By the way. Printing with the nozzle like that (after the burning) produces extremely bad results:

It should be this one here that you can buy on the Ultimaker shop: https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/45/ThermocoupleSensor

As far as I know, it only works for ABS.

If nothing else helps, I fear you need to disassemble the head and take out the filament by "hand". Be careful to not burn yourself. Here is the link to the Ultimaker 2 assembly manual: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf?raw=true

I'll make it short. With the Ultimaker Original+ you get a more "hackable" printer where it is easiert to add upgrades. The Ultimaker 2 on the other hand is pretty much ready to go from the begining. But bear in mind that 3D printers all need some care as there is no real "plug and play" printer yet. But I'd say you are closest with the Ultimaker 2.

No, you can tighten the short belts by loosening the screws on the stepper mottor and pressing down on it (down as in the same direction as the gravity exerts power on the stepper) and then at the same time tighten the screws again. You'll have do to it a few times until you get a matching tension on both short belts.

Alright it has nothing to do with this firmware in particular. I have moved the posts to a new thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8937-um2-heater-error/

Ok, sorry for hijacking the thread. It is not the firmware. Went back to 14.12.1 and the heater error appears again. I did change the nozzle, teflon piece and the fan shroud. @Daid: What exactly is the meaning of the heater error? What triggers it? Do you check for a big temperature difference? I am asking because I see that right before the error is triggered, the temperature fluctuates quite a lot due to the cooling fans. It went as low as 204° (from 210°).

I think it was a heater error. Didn't have that before. A few months ago I had a temp sensor error but it went away after a restart. Now with the new firmware I had the error twice in a row. I will try it once more and then revert back to 14.x to see if it is hardware related.

Hi, Thanks for the new release. I have tested the HQ profile, but I think it doesn't work as intended... I have flashed the firmware that comes with this release and used the default PLA preset. The temperature is set to 210° which is fine for slower speeds, but the HQ profile uses quite insane speeds for infill and the inner shell so there is underextrusion everywhere. Other than that the print stopped after two layers with "TEMP ERROR"... Might be just a coincidence - I'll try again soon.

I'd take the descriptive variant. Not all icons are clear and one might forget their meaning if they don't look at the display very often. The buttons on demand is a very good idea!