Nicolinux

Now you've done it. I want one too!!! But regarding the 4vs14 parts - isn't it pointless if you paint it anyway? Imho, this would mask small irregularities. Painting might be harder though (like Valcrow wrote), but the time you save with painting, you gain when printing.

Hmpf, I ordered filament for around 150€ and totally forgot about bronzefill. Damnit! Guys, please post some pics of your prints. This bronzefill filament looks super interesting. Also coupled with (wet) sanding, there are some great effects to be achieved.

Yup, they even (import/doublepost?) it here in the forums: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/forum/2-current-google-groups/

Where? Link plz Edit: thanks.

Alright, added you all (except for Tommy, can't find him on Facebook). @Skint: Man it is so weird to call you Wayne. Got used to Skint. Btw. what does it mean?

Thanks for mentioning wet sanding. It somehow didn't occur to me that sanding might be an option. I tried once to sand PLA and it was a total mess. Now with wet sanding it is a whole different story. Sufrace finish looks awesome - even when not painted. What kind of sanding paper did you use? Or are there any other tips for wet sanding? Might want to start a new thread. I am sure many others would be very interested.

Hi, iGo3D bietet dieses Filament an. Klingt ziemlich gut, hat jemand hier vielleicht schon Erfahrungen damit gemacht? https://www.igo3d.com/de/pla-filament-2-85-premium-innopet-innofil3d.html Was sie z.B. leider nicht schreiben ist die Temperatur ab dem die Ausdrucke weich werden (glass transition). Normales PET liegt bei 150°.

This MK8 knurled bolt/mantle looks indeed very nice. Where did you get it?

@Robert: Another bit of feedback. Due to the way the bowden tube fits into the feeder, the area where these two parts connect isn't flush. And since the filament is always a bit curved, it tends to catch on the edge of the boweden tube when it is inserted. Don't know how it can be fixed because you don't want the filament to rub against the feeder case.

The description on Youmagine has this info: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two#!design-materials

Ok Steve, I'll call you Mr. X then Oh, can't wait. This will surely bring some light in this underextrusion matter. Very interesting. I think right now bigger leaps in 3D printing will be made with new materials than with other printing technologies or improvements to existing ones. Because as interesting as say metal printing would be, the time it takes for this new technique to stabilize might be quite long. In the meantime and with the existing tech, newer interesting materials will produce far more interesting results. I think people here on the forums would be able to give great insights in demand for new material. Also there is a lot of experience. You could start a discussion thread about it.

No, this wasn't the case for me since I started Cura directly and not from the console.

Same here. I kept them hoping to recycle them at some point. But since filement quality is quite important, I don't see myself producing quality filament at home in the near future. So I am throwing broken prints away.

If you want comparable results, you should print at 230°. Then you shouldn't need to compensate with a high flow rate.

Oh, very nice. Titanfall rocks. Played it on PC though (I can't imagine ever playing a shooter with a controller...). Here a few tipps: Shoot many AI enemies so you can shorten the titan availability time. Learn the terrain and start parcoring. When piloting a titan remember that you are a big moving target for other players. Don't forget the burn cards (although not super important, still nice)

I seem to live in the wrong country. They don't sell gaming consoles where one can buy beer over here... Skint: Don't forget about the games... http://kotaku.com/the-best-games-for-the-xbox-one-1500422046

Yep, that's pretty flawless. Your printer rocks (extrusion wise). Illuminarti's famous test print increases speed (and thus volume) for every "band" you see on your print. To calculate the filament volume per second you have to take the nozzle diameter into account: 0.4mm nozzle diameter X 0.1mm layer height X 100mm/s speed = 4mm^3/s

Ian, the other way round. First writing _then_ drinking :mrgreen:

The crack looks scarry! Maybe the head crashed into the frame. Take a look at the side panels at the top. And check your endstops. You should contact Ultimaker support in any case.

Hi Svan (did I guess your first name correctly?). Thank you for the clarification. You are right, filament varies greatly. So can we settle on a common underextrusion pattern when - say at least 3 different filament brands fail illuminarti's underextrusion test below 5mm^3/s (printed at 230°)? By the way - team Ultimaker - cool! What are you doing at UM? What is your main task?

You have to right-click on the Cura.app file itself, not the folder it is enclosed in.

http://www.airbnb.com FTW

Hey guys, just wanted to say thanks for the new start-up procedure. Now I can start a print and walk away and don't need to anxiously grab loose filament strands that might get in the way of the first layer. Still getting crappy prints, but that's another problem and not firmware related.

Ok, then the connection is faulty. I'd suggest you should try to pinpoint the location where the connection is broken. If it is a broken wire, this can be easily repaired (although re-soldering might be tricky depending on the location on the wire). Did you check the white molex(?) connectors? Are they seated properly?

This will only work until you opt for dual extrusion, but that's still not released yet. I like the idea though. How did you make sure that it is held firmly into place? I didn't fully understand the description about this bit.