yellowshark

Yes I have checked my ISP and my desktop client and my Outlook rules; cannot see or think of anything else that would be rerouting them.

Err, actually Simply3D has done that for some time amongst many other things. Bear in mind though Cura is free whereas S3D is 150USD.

It is the nature of 3D printed circular geometry that the finished dims may well be too inaccurate for you, be that the inner or outer geometry. Our printers do not draw circles they draw straight lines. In my experience, which includes producing circular seals for an automotive suspension system requiring pretty precise dims to prevent fluid leaks, it is trial and error. Sure with experience you can get pretty close on first run by adjusting the dims but for an engineering application you will almost certainly need several attempts to get it right. I have seen diameter errors up to 0.4mm

Hi @SandervG, just done a quick check. The email address under my profile is correct. Just checking a few, the following forums are being followed as indicated in the line at the top of the forum Post processing New post October 19th nothing received Trouble shoot and maintenance 8 new topics all raised in the last 2 or 3 days Cura and Merlin 15 new topics in the last week and a half No emails received for any of the above new postings nor for topics being followed

Well, I do receive them. Lol Sander, one of the other programmers is probably moving yours manually so you think it is OK how are your notifications getting along? Nothing so far although I have not had time yet to check all my settings. I will try tomorrow and give you an update soon

I think it is a great idea. Sure something like a tree frog would not benefit probably but I have plenty of stuff where a pristine top layer would be great. Which is not to say one cannot get a good top layer but the slicing sometimes seems to take an odd route if one considers the optimum result to be a perfect layer.

My personal experience is that it is always the same

That is great news Chris. Those small "conical" shapes can be tricky to get right.

Yup jshanemcknight is right(ish). The surface area at the top of your model is too small to cool in time. I suspect that printing two of the model will not do it because the top area is so small the delay will not be enough. For arguments sake you want a delay of 10 seconds before printing the next layer. I would... ensure your fans are 100% print a hollow cube alongside the model (using "print all at once" under the Tools menus) when you are two or three layers away from the top of the main part of the model- reduce your print speed to 15-20mm/sec set the size of the cube (ie the perimeter of the cube) so that at 15-20mm/s it takes 10 secs to print a layer An alternative to the cube is to set minimum layer time to 10 secs and tick "cool head lift" under the Experts menus. You may well get some oozing with this which will probably transfer to your problem section at the top but you can snip that off normally. If I were doing it this way I would set my print speed so that the main part of the model takes 10secs+ to print a layer so that "cool head lift" does not get invoked

Hmn, well I have never seen "cones" looking that bad. If the missing 6 pulls cam out after your photo and were white then you have probably cleared it. If they cam before those 14 pulls then I would say you may not have cleared it. You to have a bit of a mess there. I ask myself if you have been running your PLA too hot - what temps. do you normally use? Was the photo above of the print bed taken before or after you did the atomic pulls? What is you first layer speed?

Well, I do receive them. Lol Sander, one of the other programmers is probably moving yours manually so you think it is OK

OK the symptoms you are describing would normally arise from one of.. Inconsistent filament width, so it will get stuck in the feed path, maybe momentarily but consistently. A problem with the drive mechanism; but if you are not hearing clicking that is unlikely. Maybe too low a temperature; but you sound too experienced to fall for that one. A blockage. Now you said you have done an atomic pull but as you are seeing black bits in the flow then I would say you still have filament stuck in the nozzle. Several points here… Sometimes you can clear a blockage with one atomic pull, sometimes you need several, sometimes you might need 6 7 8. Filament can get stuck in the nozzle shaft and the atomic pull does not always shift that. I think my nozzle shaft is longer than those fitted to the Ultimaker and I have experienced it several times. The technique I use is to boil a small saucepan of water and submerse the nozzle(removed from the extruder) in the boiling water for two or three minutes. Then taking the nozzle out I poke around with a pin, through the nozzle hole and also from the shaft end with something pointy like a small flat bladed screwdriver. If you hold the nozzle up to the window and look down the shaft you can often see some strands of filament. You may have to do this several times to dislodge the filament. If you use ABS and PLA and use PLA to atomic pull, then if the stuck filament is ABS you need to push the PLA temp. way beyond your normal temp. so that the ABS melts and dislodges. As for the filament, if not done so already, it is worth taking readings along the first 1-2 metre length to check they are all sub 3mm

Yes I spotted the enable bit 8). Well I checked the junk mail folder. If there are other people receiving them then I will dig deeper at my end.

Just wondering if anyone is getting email Notifications? @SandervG said it had been implemented a week or so ago but I am getting nothing.

That is my experience too, using 14.7

Hi David, you will no doubt get better answers from ABS experts but firstly I think your temp. is too low. I think 235/240 is about the minimum and people do go hotter. Also I get the feeling those two models are quite small, I would chop the speed to 30mm/s for starters and see how you go.

Yes I am sure we have all had your problem at some stage. In addition to what you have done... When you say "recalibrate" I assume you mean bed levelling; have you checked the nozzle tip to bed distance too? When it has happened to me it has been one or both of these causing the problem. Bed temperature; I would be 99% sure that your temp. sensor is measuring the temperature of your bed, not of the glass plate. Have you used an IR temp gun to check the glass temp.? Also depending on the temp. sensor and its location, if the centre is showing the right temp. it can take another 10-15 mins for the perimeter areas to get up to temp. But if you have printed this model before I suspect this point is not relevant. Are you using the same filament as before? Have you done a manual feed beforehand to check that the filament IS flowing OK i.e consistent and not thinner than before?

If the thinness of that wall is crucial to the customer then it should work with .4mm although I am not sure how the small holes will turn out, I have never tried holes on a wall that thin - but we can have a look at that if you get a new model and still have problems.

Yes abysses are tricky things and certainly best avoided 8)

I did load up the new version of Repetier but did not like it so I went back to the previous version which does not have the function to load Cura. So I cannot be sure but assuming the Cura version you use externally is the same version that you use from inside Repetier, then I think you are using the same .exe file so to get a difference does not make a lot of sense. As I said before, if you are using Repetier firmware with RepetierHost then that could explain it - I always have done so I cannot make a comparison to check for you.

Sorry, I have never ever used that and had forgotten that it existed

I think you have your words mixed up. It is not possible to set different shell thicknesses for different parts of the model. Also shell thickness has nothing to do with infill. You need to set your nozzle size to 1.0 and make your shell thickness the same or a multiple of the nozzle measurement. If you are looking for solid infill at the bottom then you need to check your initial layer thickness and layer heights and check they can add up to the thickness you have set for bottom thickness. After that if you have not set 100% infill you will get lines.

Yup layer view shows the base but stops once you get to the section with the holes. The section with the base has infill, the section with the holes does not. I am assuming that the thickness of the section with the holes is too thin. Going under .4mm is asking for trouble. Going under .8mm will give you a part with a very thin wall and little strength, but will work.

Lol, let me make the same point with different words. Removing the ability to utilise wifi or usb is a retrograde step. Using a stick is inefficient and old technology. My next step when I have the time is to implement remote control software so I do not have to be in the workshop to run the laptop which runs the printer.

One alternative is to use your SLR, taking say 30-50 pics and then use the free Autodesk 123D Catch software. I have used it a couple of times and was impressed with the result. I am not suggesting it is a solution for everyone as it may well depend on the type of object you are scanning, but you never know.