mnis
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Posts posted by mnis
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Have you already tried this?
YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cpv9
Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:697481
You no longer need 12 screws. You do not need optional insulators / reflectors. In linear slowly increasing fan performance up to 100 percent, there is no risk to get a heater error. Optimal Maximization of fan performance for object-cooling and separated print head cooling.
Cons:
There is a little wider on the X-axis. The fans must already be active with the first layer at 15-25 percent. It is necessary to protect the fan cages, and depending on the material used for the cages, while large first layer be placed. On special print platforms this is not a problem. On glass surfaces, it has not been tested.
Markus
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I use Ultimaker silver gray metallic PLA continuously for many months for the best of my prints. This particular variety PLA is generally suitable for easy and good to very good print results.
- PLA residues may cause problems in general when moving to ABS.
- Long idle times during active Hotend cause very quickly stubborn residues.
- Very slow printing in a temperature well above 210 degrees should be avoided.
- Temperature and speed must match the material currently in use.
- A misadjusted material feeder can cause many problems, you might try using alternate feeders.
- The ColdEnd could be worn.
- The Bowden should be checked for proper fit in the couplings and guides.
- When threading the new PLA you should make sure that the fractures are rounded as possible. A heated and therefore partially softer ColdEnd may be damaged, especially in the hot transition zone to the Hotend.
HotEnd-Cleaning:
- Tetrahydrofuran is known as a solvent for PLA, but it is extremely harmful to health.
- A cautious Cleaning the exterior of the Hotend is possible with Dremel tools (brass brushes).
- Other Dremel tools (drill and various other attachments (...max 3.17mm) may be used cautiously manually.
- Abrasive paper with at least 500 grains per mm is suitable for cleaning the inside of the Hotend.
- Polishes and Polishing Tools for brass are suitable for a good visual restoration.
Markus
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Ich sollte vielleicht noch darauf hinweisen, dass Du mal den Boden des Druckergehäuses nach Spuren / Dellen absuchen könntest, denn das wäre ja ein deutliches Indiz für echtes Aufschlagen irgendwo...
VG Markus
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Tatsächlich fährt das Druckbett des Ultimaker 2 mit einer einzigen Geschwindigkeit bis zum Auslösen des Endlage-Schalters hinunter, das kann schon unangenehm laut sein. Ebenso verhält es sich mit den Motoren für die Druckkopf-Positionierung. Besser wäre es, wenn das Druckbett via FirmWare-Anpassung im letzten Viertel vor erreichen des Endlage-Schalters deutlich ausgebremst werden würde. Aber eine Hörprobe könnte im Einzelfall für etwas mehr Klarheit sorgen...
Meine Maschine machte auch viel Krach beim Auslösen des Endlage-Schalters, darum habe ich die maximale Reisegeschwindigkeit der Z-Achse (40mm/s zu 20mm/s) dauerhaft halbiert. Dies ist für meine Anforderungen immer noch schnell genug, und das Druckbett schlägt nicht mehr so hart / laut auf...
Maschinen-Einstellung:
MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Motion settings > Max speed Z > xxmm/sec
Markus
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Unfortunately, your pictures are not available... :wacko:
For me, the whole thing looks a little bit overdressed, but certainly interesting. The front of the print head offers the only possibility of optional components. At this point you have to do almost not worry about a possible collision...
Regarding this fact, I already thought about installing something like a little "wifi camera", and or object illumination. Hehe, it stimulates my imagination very much, as there are probably a few more sleepless nights, fabi580 Thank you... :lol:
:idea: But I think CPv9 uses the power of the existing fans already very efficient. The original design may be pretty to look at, but in terms of performance, it is certainly extremely well at the lowest level...
CPv9 is certainly not perfect. I think that would be a perfect cooling around the nozzle opening, with perhaps ~5mm distance, but then it must be a metal construction in any case...
Markus
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Mit welcher Betriebsspannung muss und kann Deine Bed-Level-Elektronik denn nun zurecht kommen?
Der kleine weiße Anschluss wird ein paar Watt bringen können, also etwas, wie ein kleiner DC-DC-Konverter plus Bed-Level-Elektronik ohne Motoren, wird man dort schon anschließen können. Die zu diesem besagten 19-24 Volt Anschluss führenden Leiterbahnen sind sehr wahrscheinlich extrem filigran, und allein Aufgrund dieser Tatsache kann man schon Rückschlüsse auf eine eher geringe Belastbarkeit ziehen...
Aber warum nimmst Du nicht einfach zwei Strippen mit gutem Querschnitt, lötest diese an die beiden in den Abbildungen ersichtlichen Punkte (...24V direkt vom Netzteil) der Systemplatine? Dann führst Du diese beiden Strippen sauber aus der Systemplatinen-Abdeckung heraus und montierst den DC-DC-Konverter irgendwo ausserhalb am Boden des Drucker-Gehäuses. Weiter geht es dann mit deutlich dünneren Strippen zu Deiner Bed-Level-Elektronik und gut is...
Ich verstehe jetzt irgendwie die Kompliziertheit dieser Angelegenheit nicht mehr, sollte ich jetzt etwas übersehen haben?
Markus
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Small addition:
+ The fan cages are not made of metal and much more sensitive than the originals. That is why it is a good idea to print each variant more than once to get a spare part is in stock.
+ Smaller drooping deformations near the hottest zones can be easily corrected with a nail file.
+ Before printing of very large objects, you need to check if risk of collision with the glass bed retaining clips. The perforated insulator bolt at the ColdEnd (Teflon-piece), allows you to slightly adjust the Z position of the Hotend. Then be sure to realign the print bed.
+ Try printing with minimal fan speed of perhaps 15 to 25 percent already during the first layer, so that the fan cages continuously receive cooling, and can not be distorted too much. You can call at any time the Tuning menu directly on the machine to regulate the fan power: "Set fan speed".
Mounting examples:
Markus
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hello everybody
There are a few small news:
+ The integrated support material has been revised, but also still required automatically generated support material.
+ The General structure has been improved.
+ The Snap feature for the fan has been revised.
+ New (smaller) model variants CPv9 ( B) published, with more cooling for objects and less cooling for the print head ...
So it is written on YouMagine:
• Since today 02.23.2015 revised versions are available on YouMagine.
Now there are fan-cages for the original version Ultimaker 2 CPv9( A ) and also for the Ultimaker 2 version with the ~ 11mm shorter print head CPv9 ( B ). The downloadable files are marked accordingly. The original Ultimaker 2 version can be equipped with the variants ( A ) and ( B ), but the Ultimaker 2 with the shorter printhead needs the variant ( B ). Variant ( B ) I have not personally tested. Please give me feedback if something does not fit and do not forget about the most current information in the corresponding forum thread.
What would interest me about UM2 printhead also:
If the Ultimaker 2 with the shorter print head actually on the Z-axis 11mm more height for objects available? May have before making changes manually in the Cura-machine setting so that the additional space can be used, or not? Cura can not automatically detect this, I think ...
As it is with the all-new Ultimaker machines? Apparently they have similar or even identical printheads, or not?
Best Regards
Markus
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Actually, the whole can be considered positive, because it guarantees a clean print start with enough material in the nozzle. So the skirt is almost superfluous, which is only stored so that the object to be printed at the beginning gets enough material.
Previously, the filament was very much drawn back at the end of printing. On the print start, was the possibly deformed and still cold filament pushed through the ColdEnd into the heating chamber, as prepared more problems than good in some machines. And maybe the previous procedure has inflicted on the very sensitive ColdEnds damage, so it came to faster wear.
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Hehe, die Erfahrung hat mir jedenfalls gezeigt das dieses häufige Druckbett-Ausrichten total überbewertet wird. Und das automatische Ausrichten ist ganz sicher ein nettes, aber nicht zwingend erforderliches Feature.
Als gebranntes Kind justiere ich das Druckbett nach jedem FirmWare-Update. Ansonsten wird nach dem Wechsel zu einem anderen Filament gelegentlich etwas nachjustiert und gut is...
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Dem möchte und werde ich ganz bestimmt nicht widersprechen :mrgreen:
VG Markus
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Na Andreas, da hast Du ja eventuell ganz großes Glück gehabt. Denn die UM2-FirmWare hatte einmal einen ganz besonders liebenswerten Bug, der das Ausrichten vom Druckbett unmöglich machte :-) ...war das ne schöne Zeit...
Ich mache es übrigens immer noch mit Kopier-Papier, weil ich ständig meine Lesebrille verlege und mit ner Taschenlampe den Druck-Kopf von hinten anleuchten...Hm, ich hab zwar ne Kleine Funzel mit der es gehen sollte, aber mit dem Papier bekomme ich es zuverlässig genug hin, denke ich.
Ich halte dazu an jedem Prüfpunkt das Papier locker zwischen zwei Fingern und versuche es unter der Düse zu bewegen. Es ist bestimmt routinierte Gefühlssache, denn ich spüre wie viel Widerstand / Düsenabstand vorhanden sein muss damit es letztlich passt.
Gruß
Markus
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Thank you people for the very active participation First, I quote myself and am very glad I wrote it:
"However, the main concept of this fans-cages is Intended for Ultimaker 2 in its original version, and maybe, I do not know yet, is it compatible without modification to the two new models ...". Perhaps could I better write: "... to all newer UM2 similar machines.
Oh, this I had also written: "However, I am Referring to a correct replication and original design."
Anyway...VISUAL-A operates or has already made adjustments for the different from the original model, also I am very pleased and can not wait to see some of it. And also I have modified CPv9 fan cages almost done. Because it is supposed to be a good solution for all. So you can decide which solution best fits your requirements at the end.
YES, I try to keep the ColdEnd cold :smile:
I know that the transition zone from Hotend to ColdEnd the most critical area is. It is indeed very difficult to cool a piece of plastic in a uniform, it acts just like an insulator everywhere, especially when the heat comes from below.
In fact, my understanding is that the perforated insulator-screw should keep in basic form, the ColdEnd, and cool. This screw has direct contact with the bottom aluminum plate. Both aluminum panels, the aluminum heat sink, and the little rear fan should give priority cool the ColdEnd. In this scenario, the entire print head needs to be cooled so that the ColdEnd can be kept as cool as possible.
The small rear fan is undersized for Dual Head with Single Head perhaps sufficiently, I think CPv9 makes the rear fan actually almost superfluous.
That's why I try to cool the entire print head with the side fans:
With CPv9 the heat of the entire print-head construction is greatly reduced and taken away immediately, this is possibly more scope for further experiments. Maybe it works then even with ColdEnds of ceramic or metal and PLA no longer sticks to these materials.
Yes, but the rear-fan at my UM2 is for quite some time depending on the temperature automatically active / inactive, this is controlled very simple means of a thermal switch. I have subsequently made in one of the posts from this thread corresponding explanations.
Big Sorry for the big confusion, I now know a little more respect UM2 modifications. But area0404 your black fan cages look better than mine. I think black filament should I order in any case... :lol: ...And again area0404, your question makes sense, it must be cooled only around the nozzle in the ideal case. But with increasing speed and temperature, much larger areas of an object must be cooled as quickly as possible, I think...
Thank you and I have already begun to create lower Versions.
@all: If I still owe someone an answer, then I apologize. :oops:
Markus
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Basically, the fans are suitable, which were mounted and delivered with the first UM2s.
Regularly every fan with dimensions of 30x30x10mm should fit even if the basic design is visually slightly different.
Markus
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Das sollte schon passen, die Lüfter werden eingeschoben und gut is. Für Versuchszwecke ist PLA ausreichend , aber für haltbarere Lüfter-Käfige sollte später auf jeden Fall ein spezielleres Material Verwendung finden.
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Ausgehend von den ersten verbauten Lüftern des UM2s, die folglich mit den aller-ersten Ultimaker 2 - Maschinen vor etwas mehr als einem Jahr zusammen ausgeliefert wurden, sollten also auch Ersatz-Lüfter passen, sofern diese identische Abmessungen haben. Selbst UM hat zwischendurch kleinere Design-Änderungen am Ultimaker 2 vorgenommen, so auch andere Lüfter-Modelle verbaut.
30x30x10mm...Es wäre gut wenn die vier Einbuchtungen ebenfalls an alternativen Lüftern vorhanden sind, aber andere Rahmen-Designs mit identischen Grundabmessungen sollten ebenfalls passen.
Ich habe ja auch einen wahrlich mächtigen, alternativen, und zudem universellen, Material-Feeder im Programm, der garantiert sauber und zuverlässig arbeitet, sofern nicht im Druck-Kopf irgendwelche Flaschenhälse vorhanden sind. Das Hauptproblem an allen alternativen Feedern ist ja leider, dass man für eine erfolgreiche Reproduktion zwingend einen einwandfrei funktionierenden Feeder benötigt...
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Marcus...Folgendes hatte ich vergessen Dir mitzuteilen:
Das Unternehmen Multec bietet aktuell weißes PLA-HT an, welches zum Einen erst bei Temperaturen oberhalb 84 Grad instabil wird, und zum Anderen weniger Probleme mit Überhängen bereitet. Die empfohlene Druck-Temperatur liegt bei 205 Grad. Der Preis für das Gebotene ist akzeptabel, aber direkter Druck auf Glasoberfläche geht damit nicht.
Und die Sache mit den zwölf Schrauben ist auch bereits am laufen :smile:
LINK: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9706-lets-talk-about-12-screws/
VG
Markus
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Hello everyone and thank you for your many contributions / opinions.
After this probably very long answer I will make the fan cages available. I want not to disappoint anyone. The reason for this decision: I can not currently working on this little project, because my wife is abruptly ill and I do not know how it will go on...
@Didier Klein :smile:
Of course, I am aware that PLA is almost completely unsuitable actually for such applications. But PLA-printing with PLA fans-cage... I'm actually surprised because maybe up to 5 minutes without active "side-fans", and the PLA does not deform. During the heating phase, only the rear-fan is running. While the first layer is deposited at 220 degrees, no side-fan is still running and I do not see any change ... In the second layer, started the side-fans to work (Cura-v15.01 Expert setting: Fan full on at hight is 1mm)...
OK, there is little visible deformations (curves) in the hottest zones, and I think this is absolutely un-critical, but without active side-fans during storage of particularly large first layers it will be quite sure to be a problem.
So far, no heater failure...
The Ultimaker Machine display shows me a very stable temperature behavior + - 1 degrees throughout the printing time, I have no idea how reliable this information is. I usually had the fans at 75 percent max...
More than 220 degrees, I have not been tested. The printer is not in a cabin, the room temperature is usually 21 degrees. Unfortunately I currently do not have time for more intensive testing at higher temperatures...
But I have recently found that the side-fans directly to the machine operations, such as: "Heatup nozzle", can be activated manually. Since when is there this great feature?...I may once again a bit sleepy?
I think at a 45 degree position of the side fans, more heat is sucked in from the working surface, but I do not have suitable measuring Equippment for a confirmation of this conjecture...
I hope I understood your question correctly:
The reflector directs more fresh air to the ColdEnd (Teflon piece). And the deflector creates suction and so draws the air by his back to the front, I think, I believe, I mean :ph34r: Anyway, there is for air only one way forward, this is even clearly perceptible.
In addition, the two-chamber system directs the heat above the lower aluminum plate away much more effective. You can actually feel a little storm. And right after a completed print session when the print head so moves to the home position, you can clearly feel with your fingers that the lower aluminum plate is almost cool :shock:
Again, I'm not quite sure I really understand everything correctly:
However, the main concept of this fans-cages is intended for Ultimaker 2 in its original version, and maybe, I do not know yet, is it compatible without modification to the two new models...
Initially I had in mind because the Hotend is not encapsulated, but the only way I can prevent heat accumulation below the aluminum plate. Have you already discovered the many small holes in the cages? The channels carry some air upwards, ie on the Hotend beyond.
Sorry, but I have no profound idea of aerodynamics, it is much more trial and error...Maybe someone can later visualize the exact operation of this fans cages for Us?
The question regarding positioning of the fans I've already tried earlier to answer.
And also I would like very much to see exactly this fan cages in glistening metal and have of course :smile:
No there is no danger of collision with respect to the slider blocks.
Between fan and slider block is a gap of at least > 1 mm. However, I am referring to a correct replication and original design. The total height seems to confuse many, I think. The total width of the fan-cages is ~1mm close to the original design. And the total depth of the fan cages is almost 5mm below the original designs.
You lose almost no space, so please refer to the pages 1,2,3 and 16 in the original size. A finished printed and already mounted object may perhaps have small deviations in dimensions, so everyone should measure it once.
Certainly, anyone can make suggestions, but I can not currently make any improvements. Therefore, I will also publish the source files and look forward when someone wants to perfect and present the design. Disclosure of modifications is certainly desirable for all Ultimaker users. Therefore, I hope it is an unwritten law for many.
And now, unfortunately I did not understand your suggestion, please explain it in more Detail :smile:
Perhaps you meant a Snap feature, so that the fan cages can be fixed and replaced without any screw?
Tip:
You can in the use of CPv9 while the printer is printing, touch the bottom aluminum plate with your finger for a long time without fear of burning or pain. In this test case, the fan speed is above 60 percent ...Make this little test rather NEVER with the original fan-cages, Ouch...Ouch...Ouch...
Even more:
The Rear fan from the print head of my Ultimaker 2, has another small additional feature that is not absolutely necessary, but easy to implement.
This fan is switched automatically with a bimetal thermal switch so that the printer is idle makes absolutely no noise.
The thermal switch will always turn the fan with some delay ON when the top aluminum plate heated to more than 40 degrees. CPv9 is so powerful, that it is no longer 40 degrees above are achieved, the rear fan remains OFF as CPv9 works with medium to high power setting. Only with active Hotend and low CPv9 fan power setting, the rear fan is activated ...
Thank you, dear Ultimaker community :smile:
Markus
Download it from here please...
CPv9-LINK: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cpv9
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Let's talk about 12 screws:
All Ultimaker 2 users should to be very attentive now...Than here comes a ultimate free upgrade for your machine ...
...The future is now...
What happened if ...
... I would say the following?
+ Twelve screws on Ultimaker 2 printhead will soon be obsolete.
+ You do not have to buy an additional upgrade and no other optional components, so that the Ultimaker 2 works more efficiently than before.
+ You will get the opportunity to produce an upgrade for your machine itself.
+ With the upgrade, you get the basic preconditions for successful dual extrusion.
+ You will soon be able to cool one or even two ColdEnds more than adequate.
+ With the same upgrade, you will also be able to cool the objects to be printed better than ever before.
+ If you work exclusively with PLA, it is quite enough if they also make the upgrade with this material ... really.
+ If you also want to continue working with ABS and more specific materials, please make the upgrade, at least with ABS.
+ With this upgrade you need for ordinary printing operations, never again the maximum fan-performance / speed.
+ Your Ultimaker 2 will be able to run more quietly.
+ Maintenance of the Ultimaker 2 printhead will be easier than before.
As of today, they may all call me like an idiot, but please not before they've tried this upgrade itself. Of course I had spent before this announcement, many hours with experiments. And also I myself am very surprised with respect to the performance of this upgrade, which I had not expected.
Here we go:
- Compare the new dimensions with the Original, relevant here are the depth and the width.
Tip: It is a good idea if you correct all holes before mounting with a 1mm drill.
Note: For a successful reproduction of these objects a combination of manual and automatically generated support material is required. Cura v15.01 is currently unable to generate the required support material for these objects completely automatically...
- This pretty PLA material I use mainly for prototypes, it does not have any properties to be highlighted, but it is sufficient for testing purposes.
- Note: After installation of the new fan cage to check for correct function of the end stop switch is mandatory. Perform this test either with the machine switched OFF, or test while the engines are in IDLE.
- With these new settings you get less noise at almost identical effectiveness tested with Single Head and new cages.
- Here I would use some support from you, I would be very happy about it. So please measure it again after the successful installation of the new Cages.
First attempt with material of known low Quality.
Here is another attempt with optimized settings and known better material.
- Who has the opportunity and time to make these three objects, with a more particular less sensitive material as PLA, or maybe even from a lightweight metal? This would be a good additional option for me personally and perhaps other interested parties. Please login with a matching offer in this regard via PM to me ...
Interested?
...The download...is already available on YouMagine
...Download it from here please...
CPv9-LINK: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cpv9
And do not worry ... Because if you bought a newer model UM2, then the one shown here CPv9 version will not fit, as in the meantime minor amendments to the UM2 original design were made. But soon all UM2 users will be able to use newer machines with a customized fan-cage, it is already underway.
Markus
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I wasted many hours trying to update my designs on YouMagine, and that has my nerves greatly overused. In the end I had everything ported to Thingiverse, although I sure wanted to take distance from MakerBot, but there was no other way for me.
- Uploading large files (STL, DAE, PNG, JPG, etc.) that works not good at all, since there are already problems above 1 megabyte.
- The general access is extremely debilitating ...
- Image collations are not feasible.
- Automatically generated images of the object files are sometimes duplicated.
- Pictures from strangers designs can be found suddenly in your own presentations. After login, but everything is displayed correctly, but not for visitors.
- After long and in the end failed uploads, there are only a terse, meaningless Apology page without any useful information on possible limitations.
- These problems are definitely completely independent from the currently used browser.
It gave no joy unfortunately, when it is so difficult and time-consuming things for others in his precious free time to make it available ...
And many of the things mentioned is to experience not only for a few days so, but for months...
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:mrgreen: Haha, ganz genau...PeterF :lol:
Sieht ganz gut aus, aber Bilder könntest Du auch in Deiner Foren-Galerie ablegen und zum Beitrag hinzufügen, das geht auch noch nachträglich :smile:
:twisted: Zu YouMagine:
Ich habe viele Stunden mit dem Versuch verschwendet, meine Designs auf YouMagine zu aktualisieren, und das hat meine Nerven sehr stark strapaziert. Am Ende musste ich alles auf Thingiverse portieren, obgleich ich, ganz sicher, von MakerBot Abstand nehmen wollte, es gab aber keinen anderen Weg für mich.
- Uploads von großen Dateien (STL, DAE, PNG, JPG, etc.) geht überhaupt nicht, da gibt es bereits Probleme oberhalb 1 MegaByte.
- Der generelle Zugriff ist extrem lahm...
- Bild-Sortierungen sind nicht machbar.
- Automatisch generierte Bilder von Objekt-Dateien sind manchmal doppelt vorhanden.
- Bilder von fremden Designs findet man plötzlich in seinen eigenen Präsentationen. Nach dem LogIn wird aber alles wieder korrekt angezeigt, nicht aber für Besucher.
- Nach langen und am Ende doch fehlgeschlagenen Uploads gibt es nur eine lapidare, nichts sagende Entschuldigungs-Seite ohne jegliche nützliche Hinweise auf mögliche Limitierungen.
- Die genannten Probleme sind definitiv Browser-Unabhängig.
So bereitet es leider keinerlei Freude, wenn es so schwer und zeitaufwendig ist Dinge für andere in seiner kostbaren Freizeit verfügbar zu machen...
Und vieles von den erwähnten Dingen ist nicht erst seit ein paar Tagen so, sondern seit Monaten...
Markus
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Also mein UM2 steht in unserem kleinen Wohnzimmer und es ist im Grunde bereits eine leise Maschine, da kenne ich ganz andere Kandidaten. OK, bin aber auch kaum Geräuschempfindlich und kann sogar bei laufender Maschine ein gutes Schläfchen machen, aber die Sache mit dem Lärmempfinden ist eh eine sehr individuelle Sache.
Wichtig ist nur, dass der UM2 mit seinen vier Ecken nicht direkt auf einer Abstellfläche steht, sondern auf weichen Füßen. Und was tatsächlich am aller lautesten an dieser Maschine ist, sind nicht etwa die Schritt-Motoren, sondern die beiden seitlichen Lüfter. Diese Lüfter übertönen nahezu alle anderen Betriebsgeräusche. Darum lasse ich die Dinger fast nie mit 100 Prozent laufen, eher mit max. 65 bis 75 Prozent.
Die unmittelbar darauf folgende Lärmquelle ist übrigens der Material-Feeder, der in Abhängigkeit zum verwendeten Material eine sehr vielfältige Geräuschkulisse entstehen lässt...
Markus
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Ach so, wenn doch alles so einfach wäre...Jedenfalls hast Du es jetzt so erklärt, dass auch ich es verstehe :smile:
OK, Ich muss gestehen:
Hätte ich Deine ersten beiden allerersten Absätze aufmerksam genug gelesen, dann hätte ich mir meine aufpoppenden Fragezeichen selbst vom Himmel schießen können :smile:
Richtig der kleine 2 polige Anschluss mit der Beschriftung 19-24 Volt ist kaum belastbar und gibt vielleicht 1 bis zwei Watt frei, ich glaube Du könntest damit allenfalls einen Lüfter oder etwas RaspBerry-Spielkram betreiben.
Die gesamte Power des UM2-Netzteils kannst Du hier abgreifen und gegebenenfalls mit einem DC-DC-Konverter auf Wunschspannung herabsetzen. Dann fehlt nur noch ein Steckverbinder Deiner Wahl für die zweite Platine und los geht's, Denn einen vor-konfektionierten Y-Stecker für das bestehende System wirst Du mit großer Wahrscheinlichkeit nicht finden können.
Und wieder muss ich ganz dümmlich fragen:
Geht es darum, dass der UM2 Dir insgesamt zu laut ist, oder wären da ganz andere Vorteile gegenüber dem herkömmlichen Setup?
VG Markus
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Sorry...
Aber ich habe Dich so verstanden, dass Du auf: SilentStepStick-Schrittmotor umrüsten; möchtest. Ehrlich gesagt verstehe ich es so das die originalen Motoren gegen diese SilentStepStick-Motoren inklusive passender Treiber ersetzt werden sollen, oder wie genau meinst Du es?
Also läuft es auf komplett neue Maschinen-Elektronik inklusive Netzteil hinaus?
Oder liege ich total daneben...?
Markus
Thank you people for the very active participation 
Venkel shroud - 100% fan solution
in Coffee corner
Posted
If the Heater problem is solved, there is no compelling reason to try a different design. Unless, you are not completely satisfied with the results. Please do not get me wrong, i earn no money with the presentation of my designs and I want to offer you only one possible alternative to try out :-)
The only important thing that the cooling air flow is not negatively affected the Hotend. I think an extreme object-cooling is not a problem but not mandatory. So the fan power and noise can be significantly reduced if the object quality can not be further increased ...