takei-naodar

A four wheel solution is overkill and would make any maintance probably very hard. Also nearly as good would be a 2 Wheel solution where both wheels would form a Circle. On the side of the grove of each wheel they would need to be flat ( otherwhise you would have problems with different diameters that affect the filament), sort of like the Mk7 Drive Gear but with a smaller diameter like in this picture (D) and even a lager flat part on each side of the grove.

And that is why i cool my feeder motor..... called it (mainly because otherwise the Feeder holder made out of Pla could get deformed, but who would think that the heat would stop there?)

The ´Friction itself was probably not the problem.... atleast not the biggest one..... the aluminium if properly treated would also have a low friction.... not as low as teflon but still low enough. The biggest problem was that the aluminium insulator got to hot , allowing the material in it to get warm enough to get squished to the inner diameter of the insulator and through this increasing the friction manyfold.

Some time ago my tempsensor broke and i contacted Ultimaker support. Whilst ordering a new tempsensor i also ordered one of the new glass-filled teflon thermocouples. The old one was quite worn out.... at the end it was drilled out to 3.8mm and i could not get more than 3-4mm³/s with silver metallic PLA from Ultimaker. After changing it this is the result. Bliss

Its simple EldRick the filament path needs to be readjusted. I have done that months ago with the Variant for the MK8 of my feeder.

The M500 command saves the change, so you will only need to do this once and you will not need to change any other settings. Although i am not sure if this setting is kept after a firmware update.

Printing at an angle could introduce new problems. I would go with the easiest approach and give up on aesthetics. That would be the most efficient way to go. I never gave a shit about aesthetics. It is a nice cherry on the top, but if it introduces problems, takes to much extra time or makes stuff more complicated than it has to be just go plain easy and simple

It relates to bad printing Orientation, not enough strength in between the layers or a too big carbonization of the used material .

Ok after some test i have found 365 Steps to be very good usable. to apply them copy this to layer 0 on any gcode: M92 E365 M500

just set you filament diameter on the machine to 2.68 or 2.69mm instead of the normal 2.85 and set your retraction settings to 114% of your normal settings. Keep in mind that the MK8 needs to be placed correctly. Otherwise the filament will hang on the side of the indentation. Bam you are done I could calculate the E-Steps but i dont know how many degrees per step and how many microsteps the machine does. Edit: Finally found all of the info. Calculating

Could someone give me a quote who said first the factor is 1.06? That one has not taken into account that the feeder material amount is taken from the effective diameter. The correct factor for the MK8 is about 1,1428571428571428571428571428571. 1.06 is just correct if you calibrate through the filament width option on the machine. addendum: effective diameter mk8: 7mm effective diameter knurled wheel: 8mm factor=(8*)/(7*)= ~1,1429 edit: rephrased+ addendum

Really nice it is going to get when there is a pin inside the nozzle to close the opening when retracted. no oozing or anything else

Since i always easily want to use the newest firmware version without much editing i did not change the E-Steps. Also i want to be able to do the extrusion tests.

They are a sort of Replacement. This is for the MK8. You will need to alter the Feeder Case to be usable with the filament path changed by 0.5mm, due to the new effective Diameter of 7mm. Also due to that you will need to change the new filament diameter to 2.68 to work with the new effective diameter aswell as set Retraction Speed and length bigger. Everything in a Ratio of 1.14:1 but for that "hard" work you will get a drive gear that cuts in the Fiolament so well that you can use 1.6A on the feeder motor without problems. Except that the drive gear may Start to slip on the rod because of the power.... but that is another topic The biggest difference is that you have now a Set height where you have to put that drive gear. I think i put the needed Parts for an MK8 Replacement in my Version of the feeder. Link in the Siq Have fun

A 0.5mm radius at the edges will help will help.

Could i preorder 2? In Case 1 breaks .... but seriously can i preorder?

Only Problem is though that the kickstart only is done on the second layer as far as i can see... or is way too underpowered/ not long enough.

Printed out of what? Nylon, ABS or PLA? I hope PLA this would give us a good laugh afterwards ;D

Ich lade eigentlich nur bei Youmagine hoch... Diese 400 Stk war warscheinlich sein Gesamtverkauf....

That would introduce more problems than solve.

So i ordered the MK8 drive wheel from reprap.me and alternated my feeder to be usable with it. (Silver-Metallic) A nice foto of the drive wheel with the new feeder case printing(Silver-Metallic): closeup on the feeder case(Silver-Metallic): Before installing the new feeder(Silver-Metallic): After installing the new feeder(Silver-Metallic): Still needed to adjust the pressure by the ballbearing(Silver-Metallic): pressure adjusted with 1.6A on feeder motor(Silver-Metallic) : As before with bronze: and with silver-grey: The best part is after i had adjusted the ballbearing pressure i had no problems with grinding anymore.... not even at 1.6A on the feeder motor. Also the parts where the wheel has cut in feel not at rough as with the old one and have a smaller diameter meaning there is a high chance of lower abrasive factors to the bowden tibes and the teflon coupler. I will stick with it Still.... the results are not what i hoped for.... i think i will make a support ticket to ask for a new teflon coupler.... mine has widened up to 3.5mm in a V-Shape so that is probably the cause of the rest of the problems.

is this filament also usable as conductive element?

IGO3d ist auch nicht gerade verlässlich.... habe bei denen ne Bestellung seit dem 26.3 stehen und ist bis jetzt immernoch nicht verschickit.... Support hatte sich auch nicht mehr gemeldet.... Und dass nur für 2 Spulen Silver Metallic (mein absoluter Liebling in Sachen Filament) <_<

It is one pice connected by brim

It is Silver Metallic