jonask

I think u need a number of minimum posts to add pictures. Maybe google "upload picture", find a picture upload service and post the link here. I did not quite get what you mean. As far as i understand it your missing some details / forms und the bottom surface? Check if the details are not to small Check if "cut off bottom" in advanced settings in cure is at 0 where it should be Welcome btw

Hello makers! Im trying to getting more into Meshmixer beside Supports. I found a nice .obj file from a Mustang online. But its not really sliceable. It got alot of stuff in it and the hood and doors for e.g. are single parts. How do i make this printable with meshmixer? I thought i could maybe only take the outer surface and thicken the walls. Is there a way to do that or is there a better solution? Cheers Jonas

Hello, today i also did some strength tests in my university and i want to share the results with you. I tested Black abs http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/555893/3D-Drucker-Filament-Velleman-ABS3B1-ABS-Kunststoff-3-mm-Schwarz-1-kg/SHOP_AREA_857889? I printed the 1BA.stl from here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190386/#files all parts were printed flat on the build plate. I tested 4 samples. Print parameters: All speeds: 50mm/s 100 %infill 0.8shell 1 sample: 260°C 100% infill 2 sample: 250°C 100% infill 3 sample: 240°C 100% infill 4 sample: 260°C 110% infill Diagrams: (notice: The first Sample should be ignored, it was a normal (non printed) plastic probe, so my first sample starts with number 2) So what you can see is that with lower Temp the strength goes down. No big suprise. But the last Sample with 260°C and 110% got a very good improvement on the breaking elongation. Under the microscope you can see that the infill did not really melted together. While the two outer lines were much stronger. So it looks like i need to go up with the flow rate. Its funny because with the eyes only, it looks almost over extruded, but under the microscope you could see that the lines are not always touching each other. Also under the microscope the outer lines didn't look different at 100% flow or 110% flow. Witch means going up with the flow rate should not affect print quality that much. Here are the pictures of the broken surface. The whiter the surface is, the more deformation it gets before it did break. So you can see all three 100% flow rate samples have very bad sticking on the infill, but quite good sticking on the outerlines. Even the sample with 110% flow rate still got not a perfect infill. I will try to do some other tests with lower speed, more flow, and thinner nozzle size in cura soon.

looks good. You did print it a bit hotter then the skull right? If so, did the non overhang sections look better?

this is really weird :grin: Call it "The men in the men". looks really good! Maybe a bit under extruded? Im really loving this model that you made and gonna print it soon

I also still try to get rid of this. I also thinking this is related to cooling/shrinking. Normally turning print temp down helps a bit on this one.

Im really loving your work braddock and everytime i see a picture of a final painted high end print it blows me away. Prints like yours is my benchmark and motivation to keep on improving. But i would not wanted to see models on Youmagine or other sites that you have to pay for like Skint mentioned. I think this would completely ruin the "Print every thing you want" mentality. Its okay that there are other sites where you can buy models. Personally i would never buy a model just to print it out. If i could sell it easy and get the money back in its another thing. But i would welcome a Donation feature on the free sites so every one can pay what he think is right. Or just donate to an artist witch you like to say "keep up the good work" As far i understand this with my limited English, you said that you don't like to see poorly printed prints of your models on the sites? Correct me if i understand that wrong. Not every one got an awesome ultimaker like us. There are alot of cheap self build machines who also print those models. And this are the people that gets 3D Printing growing! And also the poor designed models that you can download are often also from people who just started learning and put alot of work in it. Just because they are not high end models designed by a pro doesn't mean they are not worth to print. And of course 100 People download the Files and only 2-3 People write a comment to say thank you and may even remember the artists name, but hey that's life. If i pay 20$ for a model it doesn't help me to remember the artist name either.

the more i am looking at the skull, the more i need to get some metal paint :rolleyes:

Hey Calimero! i cant see your pictures :???: wow i think i also have to Print this in full Size again! I am really liking this model. I used black PLA from igo3d. cura said 7hours. But it actually took about 8,5. I started with 225°c and scaled it down to 210°c but i didnt make any real difference. Bottom/Top/shell 0.8mm 10%infill outer shell: 35mm/s inner shell: 45mm/s infill 80mm/s on the first picture u can see the strings. Second picture is after cleanup, and burning the strings with a lighter. I think i have to work on my retraction to get rid of the strings? Overall i´m pretty happy with the result.

You level your bed with the three screws under the buildplate, right? I did miss the third screw and the back of the build plate when i first leveled my UM2. If you are using Cura, check your "initial layer thickness". Its set to 0.3 on standard. You can try to lower it. Im using 0.15 for all Prints right now. I think cura takes your bedleveling and then add some height related to the first layer thickness. I level my bed while im printing a really large cube (or something that prints a large area for the first layer. You can also take a small cube and print a really large skirt around it). Just repeat printing the first layer and level the bed with the three screws underneath the build plate, until you fine with he result. I set initial layer thickness to 0.15 on all prints so its always the same first layer thickness.

Hi. Yesterday i started a multiple parts print. I did place 1 object as far on the front as Cura allowed me. When my UM2 printed the Skirt the head crashed because its reached it maximum possible travel. I was watching my UM2 when this happened. It looked like the buildplate Space is only 1-2 mm to large in Cura. I used Cura 14.03-TEST2. I did not want to test if it also crash in the original 14.03 because i dont want to destroy my printer. Maybe someone from the UM Team can test it. Cheers Jonas

Looks awesome Jonathan! The funny thing is, i just started to print the same Model this morning :rolleyes: I down scaled it to 0.54 and print it in 0.1mm at 40mm/s. I get some stringing, but it looks really nice so far. Im gonna post a Picture when its done. Did you downscaled it or get any stringing? Or did it just came out of the printer like it is on your photos?

Things i have learned today: if someone try to move Google maps with shift+rightklick, he is using Cura!

If there is any meeting in Germany let me know! Or tell me where i get information about meetings in Germany and i spend you a beer if we meet there!

warning! Joke!: or just turn on the UM2, try to raise the buildplate in the advanced settings and let the buildplate run against the glasplate with a really bad and loud noise 5 times, until you contact the ultimaker support! (like me)

you may have to scroll down to the first layer (in layer view mode on the right) to see the raft or brim. have fun with your UM2 and keep us up to date!

I really like to hear its on you list Daid! Keep up the good work!

http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_702/gallery_34510_702_3052512.jpg (u can edit your post -> then write a text -> mark the text -> click the link icon -> copy the link above) have you tried to enable the cooling fan? I would enable the cooling fan and dont set the fan speed to 250 at layer 0. I would youse the settings in the expert settings. Something like fan full at 1mm. This way your fan increase by 10% every layer. this helps the nozzle to heat up and hold the temp while fan is turning on. I would also try every Temp between 185 and 230 with 10° steps to see if the quality improves. right now im printing a multiple parts keychain. I printed out all the parts for one keychain. After 5-6 attempts i was happy with the results. today i printed multiple parts of the keychain (likem 10 times the base of the keychain), and everything looks different, suddenly combing on is better then combing off. 230° works bettet then 200. So its always different! just hang on!

As gr5 already mentioned. Check if it really retracts where the strings are. Just open layerview in Cura and check if there is a blue line that goes up! (those mean retraction). If cura does not retract there you have to change minimum travel in the expert settings. set it down till the upward line appears. I would not recommend to set this to 0, because it will then retract everytime it starts a new line, even in the infill. as shown https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/R4bWf9jQhmMmcfBmGVuc4-eM7Nu27DDfeaf4llTXtw4=w1007-h865-no

Looks awesome braddock! How did you clean it up? Is it sprayed with color?

I agree it look a bit weird. Its grown out of a Project we got from our university. We should build a navel cannon but with given Parameters. So i just threw some different canon designs together :grin:

Hello guys, i wanted to share this Print with you. Its not the nicest Print but this time i run through the whole Process. From the idea to building it in cad and of course printing it. Its made out of 4 Parts and got stoppers for the rotations.

Thanks guys, i think i found the issue. In my first settings, minimum travel was set to 0mm. My bad i changed it to 1mm before making the screenshot. So i guess this means "always retract". I got upward lines everywhere, After i set it to 1mm all of the useless retractions disappear. :rolleyes:

ok this is strange, i changed the minimum travel to 100mm and nothing changed. also set minimal extrusion before retracting to 5mm and nothing changed. i even restarted cura and uncheck enable retraction before loading the models, and it still show the blue lines. could it be that the blue lines dont mean "retraction" and just "travel"?

Hello Guys, I am printing a kind of Tower right now. And i noticed Cura does a lot of retraction, witch i think is not really needed. As you can see it´s basically retracting every time its starts a new line, even in the infill. I think it would print alot faster if it only retracts when traveling over the holes. Do i got some wrong settings or should this be improved in cura?