eldrick

Could you please show an image of the jumper in question?

You would get more motor cooling by simply drilling some holes in the back side of the machine into the "engine covers" area, to let convection create cooling airflow.

New bugs in newest version: - on a gcode file created by Kisslicer, the UM2 now immediately turns off the bed and extruder heaters when starting a print. - It also does not control the fan as directed in the gcode. These issues did not occur with the same gcode yesterday, before I updated to the 15.01 RC7 version. On the positive side, adjusting Flow from the main panel works, which it did not in the previous version.

You can control the fan and bed temp settings by height using Tweak at Z under the Plugins menu.

For PLA, start the print with the bed temp set to 65C with fan off, then after the first layer or two, reduce it to 55C and gradually increase the fan speed to whatever works for the print. This gives good initial adhesion, but then makes the bottom layers firmer and less flexible, without causing them to shrink much. The net is that they will remain stuck to the build plate, but be less likely to be warped upward by additional layers as they are added and shrink with cooling. This is good practice for any PLA print.

I'll second 300x300x300 build volume, and without those crappy clips that can interfere with the nozzle. And how about getting rid of the lousy Bowden-tube design, and replacing it with a Flex3Drive direct-drive, that can move more plastic at higher speeds, and is easily cleared if the nozzle ever clogs? Oh, yeah, and how about a heater that won't be a restriction on print speeds?

If gluing parts together is the issue, acetone will work fine on ABS, for which it is a solvent, but it won't work on PLA at all. Superglue is as good as it gets for gluing PLA.

You write the code, you choose the icons. 6^)

It works fine for PLA. However, Elmer's Glue stick works better for both ABS and PLA.

Nope - I haven't touched it since early 2014, when the newer fibreglas-filled version was made available. I'll take a look at it again when I install the Flex3drive in a couple of weeks, but it's been printing fine.

Use a q-tip and Brasso (metal polish) to finish cleaning and to polish the inside smooth and shiny. You'll have to remove some of the cotton on the tip to get it to fit.

I don't understand why people keep griping that the plastic collet overheats and degrades, but no-one seems to do have done anything about it, aside from costly replacement. Look at this thread - it works! http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6084-um2-bowden-block-cooling-improvement/ I've got over 2000 hours printing mostly ABS, and the collet has not gone downhill at all, because I took 15 minutes to improve the cooling of it. If you use all of the always-on-fan output, instead letting half of it be wasted, the collet lasts apparently forever, and since there is no dual-extruder option for a UM2, nothing is lost.

Possibly a UM2 firmware bug?

All I can tell you for sure is that if I raise the flow setting to 200%, my Kisslicer-generated prints don't change at all.

I'm not dead-certain how it works, but when I tweak the flow on my UM2 while printing gcode generated by Kisslicer, it does not appear to make any difference at all. My guess is that Ultimaker gcode uses a variable for the flow, instead of a fixed constants in normal gcode.

"Flow", of course, would only work with proprietary Cura-generated gcode, where it is a variable. It does not work at all with "standard" gcode.

Pictures are nice, but the information is what counts. Thanks for your efforts, and Happy 2015 from Portland, Oregon.

I just installed it - works great, but for a regression: when I go to Expert Settings and set Geek Mode, it instantly goes back to the Advanced menu - does not allow me to see the setting. If I click Expert again, it does show Geek as selected, but then when I return to the Advanced menu, I can't exit Advanced. >Return just recycles, and I can't get back to the action menus without a power-off-on. The use of color on the knob is excellent UI design - nice! This should be incorporated into the base code, as the UM2 really needs a non-novice mode. Daid? Are you reading this?

Yep - Select to Continue. Thanks for the update! I'll give it a try tonight.

Venkels fan ducts are so much better than the metal OEM one that I rarely use the fan at more than 40% for PLA, because the heater can't hold the set temperature with any more air.

The Raw option on the marlin/firmware page IS the code. It loads into, and operates on, the UM2 just fine, i.e. it is a valid .hex file. This morning I pinned down the issue - this tweak only works for gcode created by Cura, and with the Ultimaker gcode features set On. It does not work for standard gcode create by any other slicers, such as Kisslicer. Unfortunate for me, as I rarely use Cura because it does such a miserable job of hiding the path start/stop blivet, aka "z-scar".

You can change the machine settings to indicate a larger print bed, or you could just use Kisslicer...

I just tried it - no effect at all. I copied/pasted the Raw code into a file saved as a .hex, and uploaded it from Cura. Power-cycled the UM2. I found a new Advanced / Expert Settings menu and selected Geek Mode. >Return and then go back to check - yep it's in Geek. Print a piece and I see no change whatsoever - same old uninformative progress bar, the name of the file, and bogus time estimate - useless, as usual. Back to check - yep, says it's in Geek mode. Very disappointing. Oh well, back to 14.12.1...

Yes, I had done autotune, although it did not work nearly as well as I have seen it do on other Marlin-based machines. I was starting to wonder whether the 14.12.1 code had reverted to bang-bang, as it never converged on a stable temperature until I Factory Reset it today.

I can confirm that a Factory Reset cures the unacceptably wild temperature swings that occur after installing 14.12.1 I was seeing +/-7 to 8 degree temperature variance that began with 14.12.1, and lots of ERROR STOPPED, which have now dropped back to a degree or so of variation after a reset. This is better than it had ever been before, and well worth the PIA of being forced through the initial setup again. It sure would be nice to have an Exit option from the initial Setup, or at least the bed leveling. The instructions and release notes for 14.12.1 should include advice that you Must do a Factory Reset after installing.