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Everything posted by eldrick

  1. Adjust the Line Width by a a few hundredths of a mm up or down until you see the long gap vanish, for a start, and it will reduce the triangles size.
  2. sketchup does a lousy job of exporting 3D files in useful formats for 3D printing. Use almost anything else.
  3. I agree with Smithy - use a high number of walls, like 50, so it prints solid. In any case, a small printed plastic screw is unlikely to be strong enough to be useful, because the unthreaded core is only around 8mm at most.
  4. The problem with the 1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1 sequence is that parts one and four are going to have two layers printed in sequence, and for small parts the first layer won't have time to cool before the next one starts, which often affects print quality negatively - it can leave globs on the parts at the beginnings and ends of the sequence. Several slicers have used this sequence in the past, and most have stopped doing so because PQ is more important than time - it's a bug, not a feature…
  5. Your problem is using Sketchup, which is ill-suited for 3D printing.
  6. For what you describe, you don't need two nozzles. Merge the base and text into a single piece, then start printing with the base color, and when the topmost base layer is complete, clip the filament just above the extruder and follow the filament in with the text-color filament so the same extruder begins printing with the second color.
  7. I completely agree - that's the only way to avoid lots of re-prints and poor quality printing for that piece.
  8. You might also verify that Cura is set to the correct filament size, i.e. set for 3mm filament rather than 1.75, if that's what your printer uses.
  9. Why are you wasting time trying to use obsolete v2 of Cura, when the rest of the world is on v3.1?
  10. "Any suggestions?" Go to any hardware store and buy an M6 machine screw instead of printing it.
  11. Or if you need fine control, Slic3r offers manual control of layer height.
  12. I use fuzzy skin for my product, and would appreciate not having it applied to interior surfaces. Being able to choose the surface elements to randomize would be the best solution for my parts - specifically, I'd like to exclude the center hole.
  13. After noting overheated browning of the board in the area around the drivers, I drilled 3/4" holes in the electronics board shroud - one under each of the driver chips. I also drilled some smaller holes on the sidewalls of the shroud to allow for flow-through ventilation.
  14. Ultimaker really should provide an upgrade manager that converts profiles/materials/etc. when you upgrade versions. The current policy of ignoring most profiles from previous versions is a real PIA, and certainly discourages a lot of people from upgrading.
  15. One-at-a-time mode in Cura is disabled for dual-nozzle printers, for some odd reason that I've never understood.
  16. Windows barely boots in 4GB these days. Add another dozen GB and you will be amazed at how much faster everything runs.
  17. You are looking at posts that are almost a year old. There are very few complaints about unmodified Cura performance these days, and it loads and runs noticeably faster with current versions. Try Cura 3.4.
  18. Sorry Sander, but having designed surveys professionally, this one was not very well done. The questions do not permit unexpected answers, and are not phrased well.
  19. It also forgets the target directory last used, so you have to re-select it all over again. Annoying.
  20. "...unfortunately, an inevitable technical 'flaw'. " Not if the survey were designed by someone competent at it, which the questions make plain it wasn't.
  21. https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M106:_Fan_On M106: Fan On Parameters Pnnn Fan number (optional, defaults to 0)2 Snnn Fan speed (0 to 255; RepRapFirmware also accepts 0.0 to 1.0)) Extra Parameters Innn Invert signal, or disable fan1 Fnnn Set fan PWM frequency, in Hz1 Lnnn Set minimum fan speed (0 to 255 or 0.0 to 1.0)1 Bnnn Blip time - fan will be run at full PWM for this number of seconds when started from standstill1
  22. I'm selling my UM2. It has Bondtech extruder, Olssen-block hot-end with 40W heater, and PEI/glass buildplates. In excellent condition. Includes lots of filament of all sorts, spare nozzles, and other spare parts to spare. Available for local pickup in Portland, Oregon. Make offer to r w z e h r @ g m a i l . c o m
  23. You can already print thicker infill in Slic3r or Kisslicer.
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