eldrick

Try replacing the metal fan shroud with one of Venkels versions on Youmagine. It greatly increases the amount of airflow on the piece.

Just for the record, printbl.com is basically going out of business, as they are no longer a distributor for DiamondAge filament. Their web site now says "Sold Out" for all but a handful of colors, and they are asking $48/kg. for those few. I'd suggest trying Zeni Kinetic: http://zenikinetic.com/ Their ABS and PLA is not available in a lot of color choices, but it is US-made, and $30/kg.

Why would you want blue fragments and a rough surface on the bottom of your prints? Masking tape is a horrible solution compared to glue stick.

Three points define a flat plain. Four points define a saddle-surface, and would be much more difficult to level. A lot of work that would give worse results.

Meanwhile, back on topic, here's a first cut at a Flex3Drive adapter for the UM2, by Erik van der Zalm: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-flex3drive

Better yet, rotate the robot 90-degrees, so both ears get the same cooling. Then, print one of Venkel's fan ducts, and replace the under-designed metal fan shroud with one that works better.

Unfortunately as it happens, most of the tiny pieces of cr*p that get on the filament in a UM2 come from internal wear on the stock feeder, which accumulate inside it and cannot easily be removed. So I use the same hunk-of-poly-foam technique (you don't really need the rubber band), but with Robert's feeder, which does not shed plastic particles and is easily cleaned.

Just responding to your comment about material hardness: "I have found a lot of information about ABS being harder material in comparison to PLA". Not correct.

ABS is considerably softer than PLA. PLA is hard and brittle by comparison. At least one brand of PLA (DiamondAge from New Zealand) is monochiral, and so hard it is difficult to shape it with sandpaper, although it prints beautifully at 200C or lower.

All you need to do is arrange the parts in sequence on a diagonal from the front-right corner toward the home position - then the gantry will never pass over a previously-printed piece, and cannot knock anything over.

You missed a post by Daid: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7421-how-to-disable-the-print-one-at-a-time-height-recognition/&do=findComment&comment=69246

Dremel joins the 3D printing business with a rebranded Flashforge Dreamer 3D http://www.printing3dtoday.com/news/2014/09/17/003528/dremel-joins-3d-printing-business-rebranded-flashforge-dreamer-3d-printer

Well, the printer is about a year behind the times, supports only PLA with a smallish build volume and low temperatures, and isn't actually available yet from any of the stated resellers, unless a search for "dremel 3d" misses it somehow. Oh yeah, and the "5-star" "reviews" do not actually exist. Pure pre-release hype at this point, and for a behind-the-times product at that. Perfect? Lots of luck with that when you're talking with their call center in India about using any other brand of PLA, or find that 230C maximum doesn't work...

Ordered one today for use on my UM2. It has to be an improvement over trying to push spaghetti thru a tube...

The short answer is No. Anti-seize is mostly powdered copper and aluminum in a base of grease. The grease may smell a bit for an hour after first use, but I've disassembled my hotend since using it, and the heater and sensor came out easily.

I like this one even better: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bowdentube-holder-for-um2-gueggelmod

That is an incredible ripoff price for two feet of the stuff. The least they could do for that grand-theft price would be to give you enough tubing for two or three tubes.

I had the same issue. By grasping the heater with locking pliers to avoid crushing it I was able to twist it to break it loose, and finally got it out. Perhaps a small amount of WD-40 could help loosen it up. (clean out thoroughly after). In any case, when you assemble the next one, use some anti-seize compound on the heater and the sensor to keep the issue from happening again. I'm surprised that this apparently isn't part of the assembly procedure. Perhaps this needs to be addressed by Ultimaker as an ISO 9000 quality issue...

I just stick the filament thru a piece of foam just before the feeder - it catches quite a bit of stuff that I might otherwise see going by in the Bowden tube...

Kisslicer offers the sparse infill feature, where infill is only laid down every N layers. I commonly use 2 as a value, so alternating infill layers go in alternate directions. It saves a ton of print time.

How about a ceramic washer for insulation between teflon piece and the brass? It shouldn't cause enough friction to be an issue.

I print my products using ABS at 238C, and it stays structurally sound under Olympic competition use.

If you are printing at 260C, then the spikes before PID settles down are surely above 265C, the temperature at which PTFE breaks down - even at temps near that, it turns brown and loses structural integrity, as you have demonstrated. The solution is don't print over 245C if you want the spacer to last. Check the vendors printing temp recommendations - I'd be very surprised if 260C is suggested.

No-one mentioned the use of gluestick on the glass, which aids adhesion and makes it easy to release the parts after cooling.

That is Spirit's feeder. I tried the one at the bottom of the page, but was not very impressed.