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Minkeproducts

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  1. Hallo Siebet, Welke laagdikte heb je geprint met je 0.8mm nozzle? Which layerheight did you print with your 0.8mm nozzle?
  2. Dear Ultimakers, I wonder if I can turn abstract research data into a pointcloud, make a STL from it and print it. Since a gcode consists of a X, Y, Z axis, I think I need three different columns of data of any kind of statistic. Let's say there is data coming from research in for instance ; deseases, preferably comparative data. Usually this data will be stored in statistics, but I think it could give a new perspective when this data will be turned into a 3D object. How would it look like? Probably one of the columns will have a timeline, so I guess there will be some diagonal in it. I tried to figure it out, but maybe there are already examples of this idea. Maybe I bring somebody to a new idea and we can share it. Maybe somebody has data who would like to test it. Maybe somebody has an idea how to turn datacolumns into a gcode. All suggestions or addons are welcome. Why do I think this is interesting? It is about visualising something that maybe, so far, did not have a shape.
  3. Change the belts....with my car I never could think about diving in the machinery. Since I have Ultimakers I am getting a real mechanic....8) Thank you for your quick suggestion
  4. Dear Ultimakers, My Ultimaker2 is already more than two years in function. I kept it in good condition, like sewingoil on the metal bars and the green stuff on the middle screw. Now my printer makes this rattling noise, while printing, and I am not sure where it comes from. Please click the link for the; sound I did note that the rattling sound is the most when the direction is going on the X ax. (At least; it is the ax parallel with the Ultimakerlogo) The rubber bands are tight enough and the metal bars are in good condition. Could the sound come from the right side on the back, or from the nozzlepart? Does somebody recognize the sound? The only thing what is maybe to remark is that the rubberbands, both at the back, give rubber parts, like black dust, on the wheels. It shows that they give some kind of friction, although this is the matter already for some months or so. If somebody knows that would be very helpful,
  5. Dear Martijn, Did you draw the model yourself? In Cura you can use the X-ray button to see if your model has been drawn correct. A purple colour indicates a problem. It might be, in this case, that the model is not proper closed, has empty spaces, so the printer does not understand the data properly. If I am correct with this, and you see indeed purple parts in X-ray view, then you should need to fix it in the model itself. Although sometimes the cura setting >expert - fix horrible might help you out as well.
  6. Dear KevMcA, Does your model has a floor or is it hollow? I am not working with a Mac, but several times I used another program to get better supports. I my case that is Meshmaker, free download, funny program, making support on all places where you like to, under command; > analysis - overhangs - support generator.
  7. Dear Stephane, It could be caused by the nozzle moving to the next part, not retracting enough, leaving a part of the material on the outside of the surface. Some information can be found in http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide There they call it stringing and can be controlled in the setting enable retraction..retraction settings. If you look in Cura you might see (zoom in when in the layerview) tiny blue lines, with a vertical stripe ending, it means that the material is retracted. Please keep me updated if this helps?
  8. Dear Dahai 8, And? Did the "Infill Prints after perimeters" made any difference? Kind regards, Minke
  9. Dear Dahai 8, Depending on your original *.stl model, it can be caused by several reasons; When your model has a shell itself, it can be that the shell is slightly thinner than your given shellsize in Cura, or nozzlesize. Adjusting either your original shell or given shell/nozzle size in Cura could make a difference. In this case, you could change the flowrate a bit, while printing. If you print with an infill, bumps could also be caused by a retractionmoment. In expertsettings you could go for the option; "infill prints after perimeters". I think it is called "infill before walls" in the Beta version 2.1 Finally it could be caused by the retraction setting, you could play with that a bit. At this moment I want a lot of bumps in my print, so far a came to this conclusions.
  10. dear Zumfab, About matte finishing, compare to PLA for instance, you could also try HIPS. I did not print it in black, but darkish blue and in white. The darkish blue gets a silkysh finish, the white gets more like a cardboard, paperlike finish. Kind greetings
  11. Dear Skewcrap, I use a cleaning towel after the print, and it works simple and perfect.
  12. Thank you Dim3nsioneer for your help, Would it be possible to find added information about the Gcodes somewhere, so I can see in the Gcode file where what command does what? Should I also have a comment on my printerscreen when a command is in action? Should I be able to see a lineary change in the Gcode and in which commands should that be? I am learning every day Thanks, Minke
  13. Good day to you, As far as I have the same problem as Dav, (printing speed going back to the original speed) I copied the link from Dim3nsioneer (that is a TweakAtZ_4.0.4.py file) in the opened plugin location on my computer. I had to change the extension by renaming the file to TweakAtZ.py. Thank you for that. Now it worked and my print is keeping the printspeed. First part solved. I wonder if I can find more information how TweakatZ works; "No. of layers used for change", does not do anything special. I would expect something like a lineary scale of change, that would be wonderful. Can anybody help me with Tweak at Z? On the wiki ultimaker site, I could not find information to gain better understanding.
  14. Good day to you, I agree with the beauty of HIPS. It has a nice -matte, -paper, cardboard look. I tried several settings and solutions. Adhesion at the platform works for me on 80 degrees, nozzle temp 235 degrees. I use only the ordinary glue stick, just a little bit more than with PLA. It might help if you make a cut out in the floor. A big floor of the model on the platform might give problems and the model comes of the buildplate before it is finished. Also it might help if you adjust the moment that the fans go at a 100%. In Cura expert settings you can higher up the moment that the fans should go at full speed. Finally, I cover the printer with a towel and at the front I have a piece of plastic. This to prevent cold air coming in and interfere in the wamth. Even it could matter if you have the printer running already for a while or if you start with a cold printer. Basic rule; big temperature differences might interfere your printing job. Also layer adhesion can give problems, due to the same reason as written above.
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