fbrc8-erin
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3D Prints
Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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What model printer do you have?
TPU95A is compatible with the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker 2+ series. Semi-flex materials like that work fairly well.
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Welcome!
Pictures of the electronics board, please?
Do the motors make a noise as if they're trying to move and failing, or does it not sound like they're trying to move at all?
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Glad to hear it!
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Hi, gardnert, that definitely doesn't look good. Since you're in the US, reach out to our team at Support@fbrc8.com.
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Clear nylon works really nicely--I'd pick that over ABS. It doesn't burn the way ABS does.
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I'm glad it's working again!
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\Oh, and thank you for the compliment. It is all an ongoing experiment. My real goal is to make it look good unlit. Still got a bit to work on for that though.......The lighting was because I accidentally made the domes the right size for a tiny tea light candle (electric), But it did open up a few ideas to light it without major wiring.
Electric tea lights are great for lighting up prints.
Yeah, I should plan for that a bit more LOL.....It was a complete accident that they fit just right. The port nacelle dome is a bit shallow for the full tealight, but it does open up possibilities.
I've printed a few different models that use electric tea lights. I like them. Admittedly, I also ended up ordering more tealights than I was expecting. I thought I'd ordered a 12 pack, but it ended up being a 24 pack at the same price. Win!
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I had also removed the BB core to do a few two color PLA prints and it must have really clogged during that time. How? It was not in use. Maybe just residual junk getting moist (even burned PVA can absorb moisture) and just making it dry even more firm when heating back up.
If you're not going to do anything with the BB Core for a while, I do recommend pushing PLA through it or doing an Atomic Method to clear it before you set it aside. PVA left in the nozzle tip will degrade over time, which is why when the Cores are tested before leaving the factory, they're tested with PLA.
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\Oh, and thank you for the compliment. It is all an ongoing experiment. My real goal is to make it look good unlit. Still got a bit to work on for that though.......The lighting was because I accidentally made the domes the right size for a tiny tea light candle (electric), But it did open up a few ideas to light it without major wiring.
Electric tea lights are great for lighting up prints.
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Thanks, Ultiarjan, The3DPrintStudio.
skrotzkn, go ahead and try the adjustment if you feel comfortable doing so. Otherwise, it's a pretty quick and easy process to replace camera, and it can arranged if you email our team at Support@fbrc8.com.
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OK, it has been a while with all the printing and experimentation. I am assembling the parts and such for upload, so this would be more of an update. I am hoping to have everything together by this weekend and up for this and the 14" model. And, I am beginning the priming and prepping for final assembly. Currently the model is in 5 Parts.
1) Saucer
b. Engineering and Nacelles
iii/ Deflector dish
Quatro- Bussard Collectors are printed in different color for each Nacelle
These parts are all put together within their structures, but separate to facilitate the priming and prepping and pics represent a loose fitting of the three structures for size. Will be epoxied together for final painting and finishing.
Total length is just at a meter or 39.5" long. Each floor tile in the overhead shot is 13" on each side. The saucer alone is 17.5" in diameter. 22 Parts in all, 12 just in the saucer alone, not including the pegs to join the parts. Will have print shots on buildplate when I roll this thing out. As well as assembly instructions. All parts watertight and no red error areas in x-ray.
Took three containers of epoxy just to get to this point. Well, just over three....tried Gorilla Glue epoxy and it was not as good as the previous brand (Devon 2 Part syringe with 3500 PSI Bonding rating). Bought more Devon to finish the final fitting/gluing.
All parts printed without supports. The PC material did the best, but had to switch to CPE+ when I ran out of transparent PC. PC did not warp as badly. Did use rafts for both. But, wow, did the PC material handle overhangs like you would not believe. That or I got lucky....I never discount that. But, it even handled all the areas that SandervG mentioned. The patterns are from the transparent material showing the internal support structures and how each piece was differently aligned to fit buildplate.
There is the illusion that it has bad angles (Like creases in the saucer). It does not. It does have nice compound curves that will be clean once primed and painted. I will have to work out some warping I experienced with the CPE+, but hey, what model does not. Most pieces were printed one at a time to keep the print head from moving from part to part as some were tall and tended to wobble with just printing one part, let alone bumping into a tall thin piece and killing its adhesion. Did have to reprint a few because of that and the follow up will have methods I used to overcome this. May be not the best method, but, hey, it worked.
Top View:
Front View (note that there is a 900 count bottle of Ibuprofen to prop the saucer. Since it is not glued on, it will tilt, but when glued, the model is quite balanced):
That looks great! I really like PC. It's my favorite of the engineering materials. I find if I print it without fans, I don't see any warping.
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Looks great!
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Glad you're back to printing again!
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Nice idea with multiple models!
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Glad you were able to make it work! Pictures?
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I'm not really sure how you've got it set up, from your description. Could you provide photos?
Regarding the safety jumpers, the printer _will not_ power on correctly without the jumpers. On a UMO+ I think it looks like it powers on, but you can't move the extruder or heat anything.
On a UM2, you get an error message about the safety circuits.
I do not recommend attempting to power it on without the jumpers in place.
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Are your printhead shafts aligned and well lubricated? Can you move the head easily by hand?
Try spraying the SD card slot with a little canned air.
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What method of printing (SD card, USB cable, USB stick, wifi, LAN) are you using, and what model machine is it?
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Personally I am not worried so much about parts that I can replace with generic after market parts (for example the extruder mount can be 3d printed and generic fans can be plugged in)
What I am curious about most is parts that have to be machined/manufactured, specifically for the UM (or its knock offs). These are parts that I would like to keep at least a single backup in supply, just in case. Remember the just in case doesn't have to mean Ultimaker goes out of business, in fact, the opposite could be true. If they get bought out by some other major company, and then get refocused on, say, commercial 3d printers, and the home user/enthusiast are no longer viable use cases. MakerBot just went through a transition much like this (no longer focusing on the enthusiast, only the commercial and education sector).
fbrc8.com carries most Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 2+ spare parts, so if you decide you want some, they are available right here in the US.
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Ah, I haven't worked too much with S3D; it may be that it handles retraction differently than Cura does.
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I've seen this a couple of times. Check and make sure that you have a file name in the bottom right corner of the screen where your STL file is, next to the pencil. I've highlighted it in green.
If the file name is missing from there, the printer will not be able to receive the print correctly and will think the print is immediately done.
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I think TomNagel has answered this question once, but I can't seem to find it. I'm pretty sure you want to bake the PVA on the heated bed at 50 C for 4-5 hours.
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Same problem here, any known solutions?
Have you tried a factory reset?
What firmware are you running?
Is this happening during prints, or just the XY calibration?
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It sounds like you're printing for an Ultimaker 2 instead of an Ultimaker 2Go. When you look in Cura at your model, what does the table cover behind it say? Ultimaker 2 or Ultimaker 2Go?
If it says anything other than Ultimaker 2Go, go back into the menu and select Ultimaker 2Go as your printer choice.
axes dont move
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
If your motors sound like they're trying to move, but the printhead isn't going anywhere, I'd double check that your pulleys are all tight on the motors and the rods.