Labern
-
Posts
2,438 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
35
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
-
-
Most of my rolls are non-UM and all fit but there are some odd companies that make theirs slightly different.
-
Never adjust the flow
The only reason your not get so called stable results from the 0.25 nozzle is because you need more time to learn and tweak the settings. This is the reason why UM are not selling it yet as they haven't created the profiles to get good results. Printing with smaller nozzles is not easy and takes a bit of testing.
I just think ABS is a bad material for 3D printing. It's weaker then PLA and if you need temp resistance then high temp PLA like greentec or a co polymer is far better.
You could print ABS with the smaller nozzle but again it's another learning curve and one I wouldn't get excited about.
-
2
-
-
@Nicolinux please save our app.... and make it better
-
The print can be greatly improved but this is something you will learn over time.
The temp is lower then the recommended because of the small nozzle, print speed and layer height.
Recommended speeds are normally for 0.4mm nozzle printing from 0.1 to 0.25mm layers.
So if you used the 0.25mm nozzle then yes you would want to drop the temp. But ABS has bad layer adheasion and makes weak prints so I would advise against using it at low temps.
-
1
-
-
The app seems to be forgotten about and has been version 1.0.1 since it first came out. It's disappointing as it could be so much better and a very handy tool.
So I can't answer your question but I think it's now dead sadly.
-
Solid inspector should get you going on that design. But from now on I would suggest you don't use sketchup as it produces all sorts of errors. There are a lot of other design software packages that are just as simple to learn that save hours of error fixing.
-
The printer comes with more narrow spools but they are more like samples. The spool holder still holds the standard sized 750g - 1kg spools
-
I will do a print with mine with my hardcore and 0.25 nozzle and post the photo and gcode so you can print it and compare. This way the settings will be correct and will test your hardware.
You will just have to wait for tomorrow as I just started a 12hr shift.
-
If it doesn't work then I think you have a problem with the print core. Maybe the PTFE got dammaged or something doesn't line up. It could be some other issue in the drive train. Can You take a photo of your feeder and it's adjustment position.
-
Set the support z distance to 0.0 you want to print directly on the pva so it sticks to it.
-
Just pick one that you like the look of and im sure you will be happy
-
1
-
-
This is the one you wanted. It uses some of the air to blow on the heat sink which I think is a waste of air as you want it all on the print.
-
The one I linked in my post? or the one in the picture?
The one in the picture Looks ok I guess.but if I was to be picky then.... You will get air flow cooling the Olsson block which is not so good and the RHS duct doesn't look like it has the same amount of air flow as the other side.
I can't comment on the one I linked cos I designed it but I'll leave that up to others.
-
Looks like spaghetti infill
This normally happens when the part falls over, breaks and comes unstuck from the bed. I'm guessing all the lower parts turned out fine but you had one bit that stuck up higher than the rest?
-
Set flow to 100% you should never fix problems by increasing flow rate as it causes all sorts of other problems.
Set temp to 180deg like Gr5 says it's too hot.
Set all speeds to 30mm/s again as Gr5 says there will be hidden ones that will be faster and slower then the one that's shown.
Benchy is u useless model for small nozzle at low layer heights. The strands are small and break easy on overhangs so best to go even slower like 10 - 20mm/s at 175deg.
-
1
-
-
-
You should be able to get a lot better results then that. Printing in that orientation I would lift the part a bit higher so the support can build a more sturdy base. Did you see how good the interface was as it was printing? What was the z offset?
-
In your first post you mention you used the CPE profile and adjusted temp, speed and flow rate.
Could you please share what your current settings are?
You would never really need to adjust flow unless printing with carbon fibre or something.
-
The size can be a factor of many things.
Print temp, speed and material can all effect It plus other factors.
I would create a print profile in CURA and tweak your settings till you get what you require but only use it for that material as it may need adjusting for a different material or even color.
As the part is being printed you get some shrinkage from the plastic as it cools but you also get the filament trying to pull in as its doing each line. This pulling in is what causes it to curl on overhangs. So you may find you can get the outer dimensions correct but the holes can tend to be a lot smaller then what the model is. The hole can be corrected with putting -0.2 horizontal expansion but this will also effect the outer dimensions.
-
1
-
-
You can use horizontal expansion and put in -.2 or something and it make the shell smaller but only in the x / y directions.
You could scale the object if you want all directions.
Or you could set the line width for outer walls at 0.2
But I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to achieve.
-
I would also like to thank you on adding zoom in mouse pointer direction.
I makes it so much easier to look at a specific part of a print.
Also center part on selection is now working great.
-
Combing in CURA 2.x could be improved a bit as travel moves go over holes in your parts that have inner and outer walls. It would be nice if it went around them to eliminate little blobs you can get from larger nozzles or materials that tend to ooze a lot.
Is this something currently being worked on or is there a limitation of why you can't comb around them?
-
A thought from me for AMA, I remember a discussion some considerable time ago about scanners, and the conclusion was that the technology was not that hot unless you spend tons of money. but clearly someone at Ultimaker was looking at the market and was knowledgeable on the subject can't remember who - maybe Daid or Nallath ?
@Nallath was the one who was working on this.
-
With this sort of accuracy there are so many things that have an effect and other things I would look at getting right first.
PID bed control
Constant room temp with no breeze's from aircon.
Direct drive, Bowden is no good.
I would even change the main board to something like the duet3d as it has newer drivers that can go to 256 micro stepping.
Also need to make sure your bearings are good quality and don't have bent rods.
Depending on your printers age, there is a newer belt and pulley profile which gives smoother motion.
-
1
-
More detail about line width
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Guest
It auto calculates everything. So a line width of 0.35 will create a wall of 2 lines that equal 0.7
It will extrude enough to create 0.35 thick lines even though your nozzle is 0.4 and it will step over 0.35mm so the lines touch perfectly.
So why does UM have line widths smaller then the nozzle diameters? They claim that is gives nicer results. One reason is on average the hole in the nozzle is slightly undersized and I'm guessing that having slightly less flow though it and utilising more nozzle shoulder helps smooth it out.