Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Have ypu tried printing a simple test object with Nylon?
Did you hear crackling and poping sounds as it was printing?
What were the results like using the default profile?
In my experience the moisture content in the nylon plays a big part on how well it prints and making sure it's nice a dry can eliminate more issues I'm seeing in your print.
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There is initial layer thickness you can play with but not really what your after.
What printer are you using? for UM2 this can be done using tinkergnomes firmware on the printer itself.
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I changed my settings so that the infill speed was the same as the shell speed and that helped me quite a bit.
I'm interested in why you find the quality of the infill important. I see it mostly as a support structure for the top layers. (Strength mainly comes from the number of shells). And in that sense, I don't really care how the infill looks like, as long as it forms the support structure that I need. So then, the choice to print it as fast as possible sounds like a good choice to me. Also, the choice to dump ooze into the infill structure sounds smart to me as well, if that (together with some other measures) removes the need for a wipe tower.
One problem with rubbish infill is you get little bits sticking up which then stick to the nozzle. Then not only do you get hard deposits on the nozzle but you can get burnt marks if it falls off. This is not so bad will PLA but shows up in a lot of other materials. But you do get some blobs every now and again from this which can blemish the external shell with PLA.
Also what about transparent filament. I kinda like to see the infill in some transparent prints. It makes a nice design or something to demonstrate what the internals of a print is like. It's hard to promote The UM3 when you show people a print and they ask what all that ugly stuff is on the inside when it's under extruded or full of ooze.
Put it this way. If there was a tick box saying clean infill, even if it took longer to print, I would have it ticked 90% of the time.
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You can easily make something like this ultimaker 3 drybox
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Ummm it's very had to understand your question without pictures.
Can you provide some screen shots showing the layer view to help further explain your issue
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If you just added 2 Olsson blocks to a standard UM2 then your problem might be due to too much heat transfer from one nozzle to the next. This was one reason why UM did not progress with this option.
What are the issues you are having with PVA? pictures?
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I just installed 4 TL-Smoothers on my UM2go+ and it seems to give a nice improvement to the prints with zebra stripes hardy visible. Just another step to make this great little printer even better.
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Just installed the TL-Smoothers on my UM2go+ on all 4 steppers it seems it halves the effect of zebra stripes. A nice improvement and I think it's worth it.
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Well it's good you have someone with the expertise on hand. Hope it works out.
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Oh no that sounds major.
What voltage are the fans you connected?
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@labern I have no idea what was built into Marlin before we worked on the UM3, that is before my time. But I've been around during most of the development of this function. And if it was already built into Marlin, we wouldn't have spent so much time
Anyway, Active leveling is spread across both embedded boards, so part of the function is implemented on the Olimex board.
I was referring to this This one. Which could be possible for someone to implement for UM2?
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Z hop cam give minor inconsistencies on z height which shows up more on smaller nozzle and lower layer heights. Also the travel time is extended which means you can have more oozing causing blobs and air pockets in the nozzle.
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@tomnagel How does the UM3 leveling software compare against the one already built into Marlin?
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Turn z hop off. It makes your print worse.
Also what is your minimum layer time?
Z axis issues give overextrusion and underextrusion and adjusting temp won't help. Only fixing your z axis would help. Looking at that picture it could be the case so you should clean It.
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I can't believe he's a doctor. Maybe all his patients end up being on Botched afterwards.
Anyone as stupid as this guy shouldn't buy a 3D printer. He should have at least asked for help before doing what he did.
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Yes it is but UM typically release the files later. Pre UM3 the files were released 6-8 months after the printer release.
I have heard somewhere that the UM3 source files will be 1 year after the printer release.
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No they havent released the UM3 source files but they will in a few months I think.
I can take some photos of mine but will have to be next week.
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@gr5 If you look closely then you will notice that not all the over extruded sections are throughout the whole layer. just parts of the layer. This leads me to believe it's not the Z axis. It could be Zhop though as it can cause this. There are also lots of little blobs which could also be from Z hop or retractions or something.
Sticking to 0.1 layers till you get it right is a good idea but you can definitely go down to 0.06 layer height. Just don't go below 0.04.
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Where it displays the layer height you can select the dropdown menu and select save current settings as new profile (or something simular)
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The blobs on the corners might be due to jerk setting being too low and causing too much overextrusion as it slows down and speeds up on the corners.
But if you have resulted it then that's good.
I have never used S3D but I'm sure others here can help you out if your having trouble setting up your UM3
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Yes you can create a new profile for the cores you are getting but you will have to adjust all the settings yourself save the profiles with the included settings.
The smaller cores are not as easy to print with so you will have to run quite a few tests to get good results and once you have found some good settings for the material your using then you can save that profile.
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I have had simular issues with ABS. ABS has really bad layer adhesion compared to PLA and I think this is the main issue with support and rafts. I ended up turning off support interface and setting support z offset to 0.0 so it adhered properly and was able to get good results but of course you have to clean up the supported surface.
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The Part number for the UM3 Capacitive sensor board is 2015.
Maybe you could ask you reseller how much it is and try it.
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Doesn't it look at the changes in capacitance level and when the level doesn't change any more than it knows the nozzle is touching?
I don't think it's actually detecting the touching of the two surfaces.
Struggling with Rigid.Ink PETG - what's the best way to accurately change Z axis gap?
in Materials & profiles
Posted
Yes it is custom firmware and it's a must for UM2serries owners. It has a geek mode with a huge amount of extra features.
You can download it here
Download the one that matches your printer and use CURA to install it. In CURA just select install custom firmware and select the file you downloaded.