Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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you definitely need to go hotter at those speeds. like 220 or 225.
I would try this speed test first. just load the Gcode onto the sd card and print it at 230deg
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3-s-test-it-here
this will show up if you have a problem. if it prints fine then its your settings that you need to adjust.
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Speeds I mean
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Sounds like you have under extrusion issues over certain Temps
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Set all speeds to 50mm/s (except initial layer) and see if it's ok, then adjust speeds from there until you get the results you want
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Have you reduced the infill Speed?
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Not available on the new forum yet, but it's on the to do list.
Look here for list of upcoming improvements
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15753-forum-improvements
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Are you talking about the filament Spool?
This can sometimes get tangled. You may need to unravel a bit and remove any tangles. When you install a new roll this can easily be done by mistake so should be checked before printing. Some people lay the spool on the floor and so it makes it easier for it to unwind. Another thing that helps is Roberts roll holder. It can be found on youmagine but this won't remove any tangles.
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No email notifications yet but they are on the to do list. Hopefully they won't be to far away.
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Agree.
I think the main difference in with brands like colorfabb and cheap Chinese stuff is things like packaging resulting to lower moisture content, roundness and tolerance. But I don't know why they sell colors that don't perform.
at least ultimaker realized how crap UltiBlue was and stopped selling it.
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I would like to integrate a psu into the bottom of the printer. We have 24v ones at work that would fit but not sure what they output.
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I normally use 10% infill. If everything is set right then it should fill it in just fine.
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Definitely Looks a lot better.
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It looks like there is something wrong with your STL. there is a bit hovering in mid air and it looks quite broken up. Is this one piece or multiple parts?
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Are there plans in the works for the addition of a heated build plate, or is this definitely not going to happen for the GO model?
thanks,
Chris
I was told it's not going to happen. But i'm sure someone will sell a kit at some point.
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Its a cool system. The color looks a bit washed out though and I wonder how easy it is to scratch. I guess you could clear coat it afterwards.
wonder if you could use a solvent to clean it off if something goes wrong so you can re-coat it.
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Your printer is under extruding. This can be from either settings in cura or feeding issues.
Does it feed material fine using move material?
Try doing an Atomic Pull to clean the inside of the nozzle
How old is the printer? If you have printed 500plus hours you may need to check your PTFE coupler.
Make sure its gripping the filament properly and has clear dimples from the feeder.
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I have a UM2 and I love it. The electronics are the same in both I believe.
If your into kit sets and wanting to modify it to do crazy stuff then the UM0+ is the way to go.
If you just want to open the box and start printing stuff then the UM2 is what you want.
In saying that, you still have to do a lot of tinkering on any printer to learn the ins and outs to get excellent prints.
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We use Kevlar gloves at work, I just cut a finger off an old one (not easily
)And poked a hole in it for the nozzle to stick out. It just sits there and the nozzle sticking through the hole is enough to keep it in place.
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You have pillowing and bad stringing. Make sure your fans are on 100%. You maybe able to print a bit colder.
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You need to include a picture of the basic page.
If you remove the floor section under the stairs the the infill will support them. It also looks like you need to increase the top/bottom thickness. 6-8 times the layer height.
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Yes every color gives slightly different results and can require quite different print settings to get get the same appearance.
Some are just really bad. Like the old UltiBlue that ultimaker stopped selling.
Don't know if it's down to how different colors absorb heat or the additives they use to get the desired colors. Maybe Both?
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If you load 2 files or multiply the object you will see that you can't overlap these shadowed areas. The shadow is big if you print one at a time, but if you choose print all at once then you will see the shadow goes small. this allows you to put the objects close together.
)
Weird Infill Issue
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
You have been printing to cold then and need to up your Temps.
There maybe something that causing it to click back. You may need to do an Atomic pull to clean the nozzle. I would recommend printing Roberts feeder.
But the test came out fine so try printing your earlier piece at 225 and see how it goes. Then fine tune from there.