Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Wouldn't make this easyer if the extruder had a gear like on umo? I know the extruder motor it's 400 steps but even with just a small gear ratio of 1:2 it would increase the torque to a level that will avoid the problems (I assume) of big spools. The motor it's already very precise so with a 1:2 gear it would have great torque and print without problems this torture test.
I think one reason why it's direct drive is its more accurate then with gears. Gears have to have a little backlash etc.
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I can get to 10 everytime if I cut off a piece and let it dangle from the machine's back end. The spooler is a really big issue. It basically doesn't let enough of the material in, and it's too tight. Looking into a replacement spooler, but seriously, this thing seems to be a huge issue. Looks like it's time for a redesign Ultimaker...
Use Roberts spool holder
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Nope just print away.
There is more chance of something going wrong like filament tangle, feeder slippage etc but if you take some precautions it should print all ok.
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Stick you finger in the hole where the braided cable comes out to hold it up. Then when the feeder is off, pull the knurled drive and insert a screw to hold it in place till you are ready to install the next bit.
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PET-G or XT is more flexible then PLA. XT-CF20 is more stiff but maybe not as strong. I haven't compared the strength yet.
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Yes
I use paper as you can feel the contact better then using feeler gauges. Feeler gauges in between 2 hard surfaces can be slippery but paper gives a bit of bite.
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You only want to feel light pressure on the paper when your not holding the adjusting screw or touching the plate.
the front of the plate can deflect easily and a lot more then the back. so if the pressure on the paper is set to high at the back then the front might have to deflect to get the same amount of pressure, resulting in a inconsistent height from front and back.
If that makes sense.
I just use a bit of paper as suggested and adjust the initial layer height as needed.
@Gr5 has a different method all together
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How many hours did you put into that project. Must have been a few.
I really have no idea, from time to time, i find it hard sleeping....
a rough estimate is about 100 design hours and 60-70 print hours.
You cant upload video to this forum?
You can load it onto youtube then embed it into a post
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How many hours did you put into that project. Must have been a few.
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MOLEX KK 22/01/2025 for housing
MOLEX 08-50-0032 for pins
You can find this sort of info on the Ultimaker Github
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I find XT only brittle when its overheated.
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Well I have given up on 3d printing all together at the moment. Got A new 2Go and haven't been able to get it to print properly from the start. Wasted to much filament trying to fix it and support is trying to help but no success.
So i have lost enthusiasm to print.
Its hard to share stuff when you cant print stuff.
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The new gopro 4 session would be a good little camera for a quad
http://shop.gopro.com/APAC/cameras/hero4-session/CHDHS-101-master.html
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Its a lot smaller than I thought it would be.
How well does it print?
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Enable combing. When this is enabled, the head will travel over the the print to the next point. with it off it will just go straight from one point to the next.
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you can slow acceleration under the motion settings on the printer, this can help. I have mine set to 1200
you can also adjust jerk if needed.
when printing slow adjust the nozzle temp as low as possible to help improve the quality. at 30mm/s I print at 190deg nozzle and 50deg bed at 0.1 layer height.
Not sure about your adhesion problem though. A thin layer of glue should be fine for that print but printing on painters tape helps with things like the toes if you don't want brim.
Here are a couple of my frogs that were printed quite slow
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This is from the pulley slipping as it wasn't tight enough.
you can read this guide which will show you how to correct it.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#protrudingaxes
It can be a good idea to loosen some of the pulleys to allow them to rotate and help the belt seat properly into the pulley so they don't ride up, making sure you tighten all the grub screws really tight again.
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So I thought that maybe the blobs were only showing on the outside when it was traveling in one direction as it previously would change direction every layer.
So i tried spiralize.
As the model has 2 outer contours it still changed direction but you can definatly see its every second layer
So after Valcrow modified his model for me I tried again. with it only traveling in one direction now you can see its every layer.
would be interesting to see if having it only traveling in clockwise direction for the outer contour would show the same defects?
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So I took some close up shots of some of the Zebra stripes and a slowww mooww video of the same face as it was printing. I found the showing the pulleys was the best place to film as it shows the movement better. its not very good quality video but when watched closely you can see the movements.
As you can see it is actually only producing the zebra stripes every second layer. and they are little blobs where the line is a bit wider.
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For pla i heat up the end to 260 then let it cool to about 85 and carefully rip it out. Its looks for the pics you are not letting it cool enough before whipping it out. Sometimes you can let it cool too much and you have to heat it up tp 260 again and start over. But the end should look like a pencil, not all wobbly like in the pic you posted.
260 is actually to hot for PLA as it burns it and can carbonize in the nozzle leaving hard deposits. I would recommend only going to 240deg.
If you have been printing with Higher temp materials like XT or ABS then use them for the atomic pulls as you can then increase the temp to 260 without burning them.
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Something else @IRobertI can add to his guides
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I'm a bit far away to attend these meetings and have previously checked the videos as I have been interested in the topics, only to find they don't hold anything useful.
Its interesting to see glimpses of some of the creative ideas some people have come up with and would be cool to see a bit more on those 2.
Having video really helps show some things that can't be written in text and will help people like me on the other side of the world feel a bit more involved with what's happening and also help with learning more about my printer's
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Interesting, they really should send instructions with that stuff.
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you don't open the gcode in cura, just save it directly to the SD card.
Its hard to see in your photo but it looks like your bowden tube isn't fully down into the white PTFE coupler.
New machines?
Smushed Detail
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
You say you have only tried the fish head.
If you print both at the same time this will give more time for one to cool.
Try and lower the nozzle temp as much as possible. Eg 190 degrees at 30mm/s for pla.
Make sure the fans are on full.