Labern
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
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Hey,
I have had my New UM2go for a few days now but I'm having a few problems with printing.
At first the feeder was skipping heaps but I was able to resolve that. But also the lines aren't touching. Increasing the temp and slowing down the printer improves it slightly but doesn't resolve it. Even the Factory test print has the same problem. So I checked out Roberts helpful troubleshooting guide and it looks like my short belts are 2 loose.
I'm not able to push the motors down from the top as there is not enough room.
So how do you remove the covers to gain access?
It doesn't look like they are screwed in like on the UM2, so i have tried pulling on them but I don't want to break anything as it 2 new
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Just asking, when in Q2 were you going to start shipping printers with extra nozzles and PTFE Teflon parts?
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I generally use o.1 bottom layer and 0.04 layer height. 0.02 if there are no overhangs or sticky outy bits.
If its a small part then you can go really low on the initial layer as bed leveling is not so important.
You may not be a Pro user, neither am I and there are a lot more skilled people then me but unless you have someone very good to teach you then i would just recommend just giving it a go.
If you want to print small detailed prints then stick to the 0.25mm nozzle and practice printing until you find what works. Everyone's setup is slightly different so what might work for me may not be best for you and it does really come down to the part your trying to print. I have printed a lot of tiny parts and i spend a lot of time in layer view adjusting all the settings so it will come out right.
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This might be overly complected but it would be nice to have an advanced option to select printer model. how this could be implicated could be tricky but it could look at original topic posters profile and what model(s) they have?? or add like a -(model) eg -UM2 similar to a google search to eliminate some results.
I dunno, but the feature would be nice.
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You might want to read this as it might be helpful: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15514-started-to-get-some-random-yet-extreme-z-artifacts-on-one-of-my-um2s#reply-105929
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You can get away with high layer heights but you need to adjust the speed and Temps accordingly along with top/bottom multiplied by the layer height a few times. The expert speeds can make a large impact on this as in new cura versions as the inner speeds are to fast.
The extruder has a limit on how fast it can pump out the plastic 2 but after a few trials you can still end up with some pretty fast prints.
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Did this happen while printing?
Are you using the original fan shroud?
This can be caused by loose wires connecting the temp sensor, loose temp sensor, fan shroud with open bottom, faulty sensor.
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Hi, What temperatures were you printing with?
were you printing with the default speeds in expert settings?
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I actually had this happen to me heaps on the old forum to a point where I had to copy my text before posting them. I had it happen to me once on this new forum in the early days where it logged me out, but hitting the back button I was able to copy my text, login then paste it before hitting the post button.
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To far for me to go but you will get to see my mini drill in the Ultimaker Booth.
good that you mention it otherwise we would have probably overlooked it
I sent a magnifying glass with it so hopefully you wont
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To far for me to go but you will get to see my mini drill in the Ultimaker Booth.
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Why there are no images in original post?
Because the new forum ssucks. :(UM hopefully will fix that in the next weeks, months, years...
Well it looks like it was fixed in hours. Because I can see them.
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I simply don't see how UM could reinvent this.
well all those companies didnt have Nallath working for them
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You don't need to regulate the air, just use a restrictor.
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It wouldnt be hard to implement. compressors are expensive to run, but if work paying
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Well there has been mention that they are working on Flex Drive kit for UM2. But Im guessing its not that. Not really innovative, just adopting it to make it work on UM2.
if you look at the time line of when products were released in the passed then UM3 should come out at the end of this year
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it can work using compressed air. But the cost of running a compressor and the noise wont out weigh the benefits. A crazy idea would be to use a vortex tube on the compressed air. but again, they are super noisy. or why not a dry ice cooling system?
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Then I tried to access the community pages with my smartphone. Maybe I'm not clever enough but I couldn't find the login option. Configuration: Samsung Galaxy S3, Android 4.3, next Browser.
To login from mobile, Press menu icon on the ultimaker website. then on the top left of the menu there is a round icon with what is meant to be a persons head. press that to login.
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Do you have a modified fan shroud like Didier mentioned? if you are still using the original setup. you can look at the heat nozzle in advanced and move the head around manually or wiggle the wires at the back of the heater block. if you see the temp jump in temperature then this can show a faulty sensor.
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This guide may help: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
You could also close off the hole at the top of the counterbore in the design so a few layers bridge the gap before it starts printing the smaller hole. then just clean up these few layer later. that way you wont need support.
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Are you able to go to heat up nozzle screen in advanced? This should show what temperature the nozzle is at. What does it show?
Check the wire connections for the temp sensor. they are the smaller wires coming out of the nozzle. Sometimes there can be a loose connection or soldered joint where it connects to the main board.
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Would it be possible to have an icon in the post text box to insert cura profile?
So if someone is having issues with there prints and they ask a question on the forum, they can then save their cura profile. Click insert cura profile in their new topic or post and all the helpful information for troubleshooting will be inserted.
Currently we have to keep asking people for this information and you have to manually type it in. Sometimes 1 or 2 settings may not be entered that are required to help solve the issue.
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you can defiantly notice the difference on between .06 and .02 when you are doing small objects on low angles and some curves. but its so hard to get everything set just right and the increased time makes it not worth the hassle most of the time. things like overhangs are useless and that's where higher layer heights give better quality.
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example of missing Icons
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Print surface seems to be Uneven and rough
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Are you talking about the flat surface or the outer round surface, maybe both?
If its everything then I would think that its a bit hot.
Providing layer heights, temps and speeds can help solve your problem.