Labern
-
Posts
2,438 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
35
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by Labern
-
-
I have seen this with altering the z hop. Also when you change the layer height from 0.1 to 0.11 etc.. are you also changing the top/bottom thickness to match? It need to be the layer height multiplied by 6 or 8 times etc..
-
I just noticed you have z - hop turned on. Some Cura versions have under extrusion issues with this especially if it's set higher then the layer height. This can be seen in layer View where the lines won't be touching each other.
-
Check to make sure your glass is flat. In some cases (like mine) the glass plate isn't flat in some areas and you get gaps on the bottom layer. This normally goes away on the next layer or 2. You could also try adjusting the initial layer height.
Did you enter the actual filament diameter into the material Settings?
Also you should try and stick to 2.85 filament as you can get issues with 3mm especially if the tolerance changes and goes higher then 3mm.
softer material normally needs to be printed at lower speeds, you may also want to try increasing the temp a little to see if that helps.
-
I selected 2 pictures to be added but it looks like only 1 was added.
here is the other
-
The login for my mobile devices seems to work now ( android )
I just created a new Album, when I selected photos the spinny wheel just sat there for ages. I got sick of waiting so I just clicked save and it showed the photos had been loaded. It's nice to be able to load pictures from mobile now.
Here is where the points don't seem to add up. Total points doesn't equal points gained.
[/media] -
I have had log in issues this morning on my phone. When I would click log in, I would just get a blank blue screen. I couldn't zoom out or move it around. Ended up forcing desktop mode to be able to zoom out and find the text box.
Also I keep getting new notifications for things I have already looked at.
My points don't add up either.
I haven't fully checked everything out yet but I like some features. Its mainly the filters I miss like others have mentioned. Some of which I think can be set in profile. Like having spoken languages.
-
Users could enter spoken languages into there profile. This could then filter what's shown in the latest posts etc..
-
yip that would be about right
-
Yep I was also disappointed to see this.
-
While playing around with the printer the other day. I had the fans set on 100% and slowly covered one side of the exit holes. you could really hear the fan motor drop in speed. just covering it a small amount really seemed to make quite a difference. So this convinces me more that making the orifices smaller isn't a good Idea.
-
Hope it's not as confusing to use as this new forum
-
1
-
-
Where has our chat gone? Cant find it in the new forum?? :(
-
4
-
-
Yeah, the gaps are small and when printing slow they are easy to bridge.
-
I Wanted a nice finish inside and out. Printed at 30mm/s with 0% infill and took about 6.2Hours
-
Sorry but I loaded the wrong model on youmagine. Have just updated it. the one there wasn't for the Olsson Block.
-
During one of the previous cura updates, a safety feature was implemented where, if the element would heat but not reach the desired temp by a certain time then this error would come up.
If you have a fan shroud that has a open bottom then the air reflects off the glass and cools the heater block. It then can take to long for the heater block to fight against the cooling air and get back to the desired temp.
1 reason why you might only be experiencing this issue now and not before maybe the item you are printing might make the air reflect up more then other prints. I dunno
So To solve it you can Check the temp sensor and element is fastened securely into the heater block or increase the height the fans come on full, Say 1 - 2mm. this way the fans come on more slowly and the heater block has more chance to fight the cooling air.
Or you need to enclose the bottom of the Fan Shroud.
-
What material are you printing with?
Did you clean the tape with Alcohol?
-
Im glad to see you are getting the head to be more central. the more like the original you can get it the bigger the build volume will be.
Would be nice if the park positions could recesses into the front frame a bit. but I guess there are limitations due to cables and bowden.
Good work.
-
This may seem like a silly question, but why do designers of fan ducts for the UM2 connect the left- and right-side ducts across the middle in front of and below the hot-end?
Wouldn't it be easier to have two pieces - a left- and a right-side duct? Seems like this would alleviate issues as to heat from the hot-end.
If airflow needs to be directed away from the hot-end, connect the two pieces across the bottom with a thin piece of metal, like the piece of beer-can Venkel used as a heat-shield on his version.
Yes I have done this while testing but Is not the point of my design. This Is just to test main design function so I can then make a full metal Shroud. Its faster and easier to design and test the whole thing in plastic. Also Venkels Little metal bit only protects against the sides, you need to protect the sides and bottom. While this is easy for some, not all people have the ability to cut and shape bits of metal. For me I just cut a finger off a kevlar glove I had lying around and shoved that in there and it works perfectly.
This is one reason why I did just load it straight away on youmagine as I haven't worked on a way for everyone to easily protect it against the heat. But quite a few people wanted to test it so I just uploaded it.
You may want to try mnis design or follow what pm_dude is working on as he is doing what you mention.
-
You can try mine if you want
Have just loaded it on youmagine and you can find it here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud
I have been using it and am finding it good. Please give me feedback on printability, I used XT-CF20
-
Its Ok
Xisle Helped me understand the code so I can modify it manually and then he even wrote me a little python program to modify the code automatically.
All credit to him and now I can get the printer to do what I want and the quality is greatly improved.
-
Firstly it wont be 50micron in diameter. it more like a flat line. the width defined by the nozzle width which is normally 0.4mm (can vary a little) and the height is defined by our layer height. in your case 0.4mm wide and 0.05mm high.
I am currently printing at 20 micron layer height. I do a few prints at this but its not very common for people to go that low and depending on your model, most of the time it doesn't give the best quality.
you can get a aftermarket nozzle of 0.25mm which will mean your lines will be 0.25mm wide.
-
Topic for fan Shroud is here.
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10554-um2-fan-shroud-replacement/?p=102188
There are a couple of people testing it for me, but will be on youmagine shortly.
-
That's great. Yes I was worried about working on mine at the start but then found its not the complicated and most jobs are simple.
Loading photos is a weird process but you Click gallery on the left menu of the forum. Then click upload and create an album and upload to that. There is a tutorial for that somewhere.
general forum feedback
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
This is the notification issue I have been getting. Got a new notification, when to check it and I have already looked at it and you can see from the time that its old and I'm on the last page..thumb.png.2fad0d3673e8eb800c2097ca7c63d3ea.png)
I just tried to load the image above but half the Icons for the text box were missing. i had to hover over where i thought they were with the mouse to read the little pop up note to find it.