Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Its all good. At least you got a like.
I got nuthin
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As for ini/gcode, maybe it would be cool if the forum could rip the print parameters out and present them in an easily readable table? That would make it easy for people to post their print settings, just upload the file and the forum presents it in a standard way across the site. This could be used in the print upload section as well so that people wouldn't have to fill it in manually.
You mean like i suggested here https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/12740-cura-settings-post-insert
but you explain it better.
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Wall thickness 1.6?
nozzle 0.4 x 4 = 1.6
Ich kann nicht Deutsch lesen so weiß nicht, eigentliche Problem ??
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Well then that may be your problem. I'm not sure what version board came with the feature but you may be stuck with it always on.
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Ultimaker does seem very vague on a lot of these things.
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There may be a burr on the inside of the hole where the counter sunk securing screw goes, stopping the sensor and element from reaching the end.
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Also check all the pulleys are tight with no grub screws sticking out.
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The UM2go's have a new circuit board that allows the fan to be controlled. eg on and off. As older printers didn't have this option it wasn't included in the firmware.
So FW 15.02 didn't have this option so the fan turns on as soon as the printer is switched on.
the feature was included in the new firmware 15.04go so that's why you see one turn on at 40deg.
the 3rd printer may have an issue. upgrade all printers to the new firmware and see if it resolves the issue of with the one not going. If it still doesn't work then check the wiring. You need this to work or you will end up having feeding issues and it will shorten the life of the PTFE coupler.
Make sure the solder joints on the fan are still connected, then make sure the plug is connected properly with no loose pins. If all ok the check the main board under the machine to see if it has a loose wire or broken solder joint.
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Hoi Lutz!
Ich machte eine kleine Batch von 0.15mm, die sind von einem Japaner gekauft worden! Er schreibt Kanji damit.
Leider ist mein Werkzeug kaputt gegangen dabei.
Ich erwarte Teile und werde diese ende Juni wieder liefern können.
Wenn Du sehen willst was möglich ist, dann sehen was der @labern macht. Er ist eine Autorität kleiner Teile. Mach mal google "worlds smallest drill".
Mit 025 kannst du Vieles machen. 0.1 u kleinere layer height.
sweet man, Let me know when you get in smaller nozzles. I have been searching for ones that are smaller.
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I keep 1 bit for atomic pulls and some times if I'm printing a part with very few retractions then i just shove it up the tube and push another bit behind it. its worked ok for me so far. to lazy to weld them
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You can find it on youmagine here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2
Alternatively you can search "test" in youmagine
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Yes this has been there a while. you may just have to wait til the first of July
Not sure if its fixed in the new upcoming cura version though.
You can just turn the printer off after aborting it and push the filament in by hand before you start the next print.
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Yes you can. quite a few people print with it. there are some found here: http://www.blackmagic3d.com/Nylon-s/1815.htm
if you click on the one you want then select printing parameters tab, this will give you recommended settings to use for that filament. Use those settings for starters then adjust from there to get the desired results your after.
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The smileys don't always work :(
I have seen some that didn't work on the original post but did work in a quote when someone quoted the post.
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how do you configure a file to get that resolution ?and what are the specific configurations for the printer im dealing with a simpler shape and having lots of issues
If you provide a photo or stl of what you are printing and your settings you used in cura. This can then help us know what problems you are having and the best solutions for resolving them.
Different designs can require different settings to get the best result.
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I have the same problem with my Ultimaker robot with moving parts. The gap between the body and head has this issue. Still ended up printing ok but not the best situation.
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Generally you don't need to adjust it and shouldn't adjust it at all. If you reduce the bed temp there is the likely hood that the print may come unstuck from the bed. Especially if you turn it off.
Having the temp to high on parts with low overhangs can cause them to be ugly.
Have high temp at the start help bed adhesion. but if you need low temp there are still ways to make sure the parts are going to stick.
I never adjust mine and don't need to, If you have the correct settings then there is no problem.
Don't worry about leaving it on during a long print, It wont harm anything, But if your worried about running costs then find another hobby
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I tired the IPM with Ultimaker PLA. Low temps with a quite a few retractions and it failed straight away and had to change back.
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There was a conversation a while ago where someone was complaining about how its canter-levered out and not rigid enough then someone from Ultimaker R&D mentioned that they tried having it supported from both ends but the quality was worse.
But it agree with Blizz, it tends to only judder while going over bits like curling and "hills"
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uploaded new design on youmagine with all @Duriel suggestions.
thanks for the input
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud#!design-documents
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Pour régler ce problème de ventilos voici ce que j'ai fait:
J'ai commencé par tester le model sur youmagine mais comme le support d'origine j'ai des "error heater"
Alors j'ai découpé et percé certaines parties du nouveau support pour que l'air soit plus diffue sur le plateau mais sans succès :(.
Du coup j'ai eu l'idée de contourner le problème en confinant le bloc buse plutôt que de chercher une solution au niveau des ventilos.
En comparant bien le support d'origine et celui que j'avais téléchargé il manque une ailette derrière pour protéger l'arrière du bloc buse.
J'ai donc repris le dessin de en ajoutant un petit "balconnet" + quelques petites modifs j'ai imprimé et monté le tout et Bingo!
Ventilateurs a 100% dés la première couche, la température de la sonde descend de 3 degrés au démarrage des ventilateurs et remonte très rapidement.
Attention quand même la ventilation est beaucoup plus concentrée et puissante avec le support de Labern.
Pour ceux qui ont conservé le support d'origine, Le bloc buse Olsson étant plus haut, en cloisonnant un peu mieux l'arrière cela améliorera peut être les choses, mais je n'ai pas testé.
hi @labern , a new update for your fan support , to delete " Heater error" on the first layer with 100% fan, what do you think of that ?
Do you think @duriel can publish it on youmagine ?
Thanks
Attendons la réponse et sinon je t'envoi mon mail en MP.
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Hey
yes of course he can. I'm surprised @duriel has had heater errors even on the first layer with 100% fan. Was it not protected enough? as i have been printing 100% fan from first layer a lot printing mini things and haven't had a problem but I understand that everyone's set up is different. I can easily make additions to my design if required, But its good to see that this can be of concern as I am about to proceed in making metal versions and something like this can be included.
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A low roll of filament can also cause it as the filament is tightly wound and doesn't like going through the bowden tube.
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This test is meant to be done at 230deg so anything under that will have problems.
Increasing the E motor current can make it more hot and end up melting the filament at the feeder.
The "tocking" sound is due to to much pressure build up and it skips backwards to prevent the material from being ground down by the feeder.
So if this is "Tocking" regularly when printing at the correct temps and speeds means there is something causing to much force for the feeder to feed the material.
This can come from tangles in the roll or something else after the feeder.
I recently had the same issue in a new machine and found the PTFE coupler was the problem.
If you have performed a few good atomic pulls and is clear then you may want to look at what else in line could cause the issue.
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It's probably the ptfe coupler and may need to be replaced. But also check and make sure the 3rd fan at the back is on 100% of the time. If this stops it can cause these issues.
Categories Of parts on YouMagine
in Coffee corner
Posted
i think its because this is the default category which is pre-selected. maybe it should be blank to make people select one.