Labern
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Posts posted by Labern
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Just in case someone it's interested, Titanium TC5 coated with tungsten disulfide ws2 don't work. The pla sticks to it like glue and jams in 10-15mins. On the other side, the heat outside the peek (tested on umo+) goes from 150-160 externally to 105-110C. Expensive test, but worth the try
I wonder if it works for PC and ABS, would be good to try it on high temp plastics.
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Forum very unresponsive atm, just posted the same comment 5x ..... and no way to delete it (the magnetic head change topic)
Hehehe, it made me laugh when I saw it.
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Its dependent on your Initial layer thickness. for .25layer height you will need to set the initial to 0.2 to get all details and for 0.06layer you will need to set the initial layer height to 0.1
not sure why, but that's how you get around it.
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How come the extended gets those features but the UM2go doesn't :( I'm surprised as mine came with a really noisy fan.
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Looks Great, I'm jealous
Yes there packaging has greatly Improved. I got my UM2go last week and the carry case it comes in is awesome.
The Extended looks strange being so tall
I'm sure you will have heaps of fun with it and will be cool to see some of those extended prints.
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There are guides under the support section of the main Ultimaker website.
Here is the link to the issue you have: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning
Its a very good guide with pictures that show exactly what to look for or adjust.
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I have just noticed this new filament that popped up on the website. I'm wondering if it's a remodelled PET that came and went from the store a while ago. It comes with a PTFE insulator and says higher printing Temps.
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Labern thanks for posting your findings. If you did not already, may I suggest you install the I2K insulator by http://www.3Dsolex.com. Since the moment I have installed it, my teflon coupler problems are happily solved, it is really very effective in protecting the teflon from warn and deformation.
http://3dsolex.com/i2k-insulator
Hey, I have A I2K ready to install along with an Olsson Block, wanted to keep it stock at this stage for testing perposes and cos it's to new
I also had installed one on my UM2 and had issues when printing tiny parts so I removed it again. But I will retest it as it may have been something else that caused the issues.-
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You can use cool head lift in cura under advanced and cooling fan settings. to make it work on every layer you can adjust the minimum layer time.
You can also use this modifier found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/edit-cool-head-lift-value-for-small-layer-blocks made by xisle that allows you to adjust the time it pauses for every layer. if you use the default one its defined by the time it takes to print each layer.
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Yeah it was kind of troubling for me. but just a process of elimination. only other thing after this was the nozzle but i can go down to 190 now with no under extrusion.
The best answer thing is a bit of a flaw when you find your own best answer but i cant mark my own. Also my first question was answered by you @DidierKlein earlier but my issue continued and turned out to be something else entirely. So would marking the best answer for the original question be best or what fixed my issue?
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Welcome all newbies. Will be good to see some of those great prints.
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Well it looks like I have solved my issue.
I removed the Teflon insulator and it had a rough texture. I passed some filament through it and compared it to a spare insulator. The one from the UM2go was hard to pass the filament through. the indentations from the feeder was scraping along the inside and wasn't smooth. while the spare one i had passed through easily. After replacing it here is the print results, A big improvement.
Will contact support to get a replacement.
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Try removing the material out of the machine. If it doesn't come out via change material then turn the machine off and just pull it firmly out.
Cut the filament into a point so it's like a sharpened pencil. Sometimes it can catch on a edge as it enters the nozzle.
try this first as it's the main cause.
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I know you are very experienced but I have to ask: What temp, speed, layer height were you using for that pink part?
Keep in mind that the speed is controlled in like 7 places in Cura.
Also what was your shell width set to? It looks like .8 but if it's actually .85 or .9 that would explain the problem.
Also is flow rate at 100% in your filament settings in the um2go and flow at 100% in the um2go?
Also is this pink filament more than half empty? And have you used this same roll of filament on another printer successfully?
The Pink roll is a new one that came with the printer and haven't tried it on another machine yet but I have used blue on the UM2go and it had the same problem. Also the test print done at Ultimaker that came in the box was silver PLA and it also had the problem.
I have printed a few items with my own settings and also printed items that came on the SD card with the printer.
Setting pulled from the Gcode are as follows:
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.png.71a1906863e05dc3f935b863f15cc0e4.png)
was printed with default PLA setting of 210deg, flow on machine set to 100% and 2.85mm diameter. I measured the filament and its 2.85mm
I also still have issues with the material skipping back, even with Roberts feeder. I have also unwound the roll so the filament is really loose.
I'm beginning to think the Teflon part may have something wrong so I will check it.
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I also installed Roberts Feeder and it didn't help.
I'm only concerned as my UM2 doesn't have these problems with the same Gcode file.
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I tested the temp using your method and it seemed to be hotter then yours.
So I got out my temp tester and put a thermocouple inside the nozzle and held one on the outside. the first pic shows the temp inside the nozzle and the second shows the external temp.
As you can see the nozzle isn't cold.
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Yes it can handle it. but its the difference in speed that's a problem. the faster you go the hotter the nozzle temp needs to be. So you will need to increase the temp. this will fix the infill but make the slower areas a bit hot.
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HI
In Cura you need to go to expert, full settings, then go to the advanced tab and you will see infill speed. Slow this down. 10mm/s (or close to it) above the print speed is good. to fast and you get problems like yours.
you can even out all the speeds so they don't vary to much between each other.
Example:
50mm/s outer shell
55mm/s inner shell
60mm/s infill
50mm/s top bottom
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This is really the first forum I have used as most other forums I have been on People complained to much and were to impatient, so I didn't bother continuing. Although some things are currently lacking on this new forum. I don't find it that bad. I think there are some improvements over the old forum and it there has been some improvements so far to fix minor things.
But I will be nice to see a visual change to help reduce the white space. But as sander said, Its being worked on.
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Thanks @DidierKlein, I was eventually able to get both sides out. the last bit took a while but got them out in the end without breaking anything.
So I have tightened both belts, Done atomic pulls a few times, Reset Firmware, adjusted temps, slowed down.
None of them really solved it. I can get the lines to join but only when I go up to 225deg.
I used the Gcode in my UM2 (surprisingly worked fine) and it printed fine and was able to even drop the temp 10 degrees and it still printed ok.
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Im not able to log in. I used to use Google to log in but it comes up with an Error: redirect_uri_mismatch
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Its running the latest firmware.
Will try factory reset.
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In Cura what settings did you use to print the item? Did you use the quick print settings? If so, what one did you use? and what cura version?
If you used the advanced settings what layer height?
What speed?
what nozzle temp did you print with? did you use the default PLA material setting on the printer?
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Ask help for leaning prints
in Coffee corner
Posted
Yes I agree that you need to be careful with the screws
The screws are not that bad but the allen keys that they supplied are low quality. dome head screws tend to strip easily as the hexagon hole isn't very deep so care needs to be taken.