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Everything posted by randyinla

  1. Nicolinux, When I loosened all of the screws around the entire box, not just the base, I could feel the box's squareness changing depending on which corner I put pressure on. I didn't loosen them to the point of almost falling out, but enough where the alignment of the sides/top/bottom could be manipulated slightly. All I can suggest is to try again and maybe get someone to help hold it down against a flat surface while tightening? I would think if you tighten the screws while being held tightly against a flat surface, you'd have a good chance of retaining the alignment. If you can reduce
  2. I stumbled across their website with the live cams a few weeks ago. I thought the inverted UM originals and seemingly limitless Z height was AWESOME!!!!!!!!! Looked like they had a floating feeder system too. The feeder seemed to be moving on springs or rubber bands or something. Pretty cool stuff, indeed!
  3. I keep wondering how hard it would be to increase the Y length of the UM2. Remove the front panel, cut new, wider side panels. Longer rods/belts wouldn't be that difficult. But then what to do about a longer heated build plate and glass? Increasing the X seems more challenging due to the placement of the steppers/gears etc. I'm only talking a few inches. Like, from 8" to 12" so I could print full face masks/helmet or even shoe-sized objects... Aurora race tracks etc.
  4. I replaced my rear fan due to noisy bearings in the original. The replacement was from the same manufacturer and had the same amount of air flow as the original, just MUCH quieter. From what I've read around the forum here, some people already have quiet fans. Maybe it's a crap shoot as to the noise level on a fan by fan basis?
  5. Short (blurry) video of the process. The slow button presses/releases don't work as well as the faster ones towards the end. The blue painter's tape over the two LEDs is to cut down on the sheer brightness when trying to sleep. Don't need it when the whole unit is put back together.
  6. Thank you, again, Illuminarti, for the used encoder! I look forward to receiving it. Here is a pic of my encoder button hack I have working at the moment: The first two buttons from the left control the cursor: Cursor up = push-right, push-left, release-right, release-left Cursor down = push-left, push-right, release-left, release-right The last button on the right is the select button Weird thing about the sequence is that for most menu items, those four actions = 1 cursor movement. For certain menus though, each button press/release of the sequence = 1 cursor movement. ie.changin
  7. I printed the 14 piece version and love it! Did the axel and pinwheel in Colorfabb bronzefill and they look amazing! Threw the pieces into a rock polisher over night and they got really dark, almost black. I can now polish certain areas and bring back that lighter, bronze color. it would be nice if the three-pronged connectors used between the top three sections were also used between the "clamp" and connecting pieces, rather than simply relying on the pressure of said clamp. I've been trying to copy/paste that three-pronged connector to the other parts and can't find a good (and easy
  8. Cool, Cleven! Congratulations! Cut the old fan's wires, trimmed the new fan's wires to the same length and soldered them in place with shrink tubing around each. Now it's hard to tell the machine is on. A barely noticeable, quiet whisper compared to the squealing noise the original fan made. SO glad I was able to replace it.
  9. So I ordered Elmer's all purpose glue stick off Amazon and it works great for ABS (which didn't want to stick to my blue tape). I built an acrylic door for the front of my U2 and (for now) can place a cardboard box on top to create a heated enclosure (will convert to a proper acrylic cover soon). Not only have ABS prints stuck solid to the glue/glass (set to 110c), but they are not warping like before! I forgot and left the box on top and the door closed when printing something in PLA and it failed miserably because it got too hot for the PLA :oops:. Anyway, just wanted to give a thumb
  10. Sure! If it's the same part/model number. I just got home and planned on posting pics of the current button hack I have in place in case anyone else needed a quick-n-dirty way to regain temporary control.
  11. My U2 encoder indicates it was made by Alps, but there is no model or part number on it. Does anyone know the part number for the main knob's encoder on the circuit board? I submitted a support ticket. Just posting here in case anyone knows. While making a hinged door for my U2, I decided to take off the whole front panel to have an easier time attaching a magnet to keep the door closed. In doing so, taking off the front panel of the U2 box, I didn't notice that the shaft for the main knob's encoder was attached to the round semi-clear plastic housing that was bigger than the hole in the
  12. I am very happy to report that my build plate seems MUCH more level than previously possible! After adjusting the box's squareness, I then followed Chris's suggestion; took off the back plate around the z-stage linear bearings, loosened the 8 screws on the linear bearing plates (again, don't take any screws out) and realigned the build plate to the now (more) square inside bottom. I didn't have any calibration thingies or dice or anything else... then it dawned on me that the three thumb screws provided by Ultimaker for fine tuning the leveling are RIGHT THERE! I unscrewed them and used t
  13. That's funny, Cleven! Good thing you found it. Wonder if you will get better prints now? My fan came in today. It didn't have a connector, just bare wires, so I'll have to wait and solder it in when I get home.
  14. I loosened all the screws around the edging of the frame about a 1/4 turn and gently bumped my fist into the top 4 corners while pushing down all around. Within a few seconds of this, that front right corner stopped wobbling and all four seemed rock solid. I tightened the top corners first, starting with the front right, back left, front left, back right... testing wobble after each screw. If a slight wobble came back, I would loosen that screw again and bump my fist in each corner (tapping sideways and downwards) until it went away again. It was rock solid on the kitchen stone counters, r
  15. Just re-read through the thread and I don't think shimming just the underside of the U2 box with printed adjustable feet or paper would do anything for the internal alignment. Reason being that the cube is out of alignment with itself, not that the cube is perfect and is just not flat on the bottom. I'm assuming the (laser cut?) walls of the cube are the exact right size and shape. The fact that my cube wobbles tells me it's not a true cube. By shimming under the high leg or shimming to lift under the low leg to stop rocking just rotates the out of alignment cube to stop wobbling on the ta
  16. I too have the same leveling issue, only my low corner is the back left. I first posted that I had this issue a few days ago. Sandor had seen my post and contacted Chris McAdam @ Ultimaker. (Thank you, Sandor!) I received a nice email from Chris with instructions on how to re-level the z-stage and a link to the Assembly Manual. I was just about to start the process of placing three calibration objects under the build plate (which seems to be flawed, making an assumption that the base of the U2 box is indeed level?) when I started reading this thread. The comments here prompted me to check
  17. +1 for this idea. I know the design specs for the U2 are in a github repository, but what about the firmware? I thought about having a look around to see if I could add the ability to name material profiles myself. Even if you don't have the saving/reading from SD cards implemented yet, just being able to name them would be huge! Much easier to choose "ArchtectStone" instead of remembering that it's "Custom 12"
  18. The original Staples brand glue stick that came with my U2 worked nicely for me. Cleanup was a breeze running under tap water. Loved it. However, when it came time to buy another stick at my local Staples store, they didn't have the same sized tube. I opted for two of the larger tubes that had the exact same label as the one from Ultimaker. These glue sticks were horrible and nothing like the one that came with my printer. The glue in these locally bought tubes dried almost instantly, without even the slightest tackiness. Even when the build plate temp got up to 75c~90c, it still wasn'
  19. I would not recommend laying flat on the floor without a turntable unattended, IMHO. I did this with the Architect's Stone PLA from Faberdashery and it got itself all twisted up, preventing proper feeding. All it takes is a brief slip of the pulled end to slide underneath a lower part of the coil and it binds up enough to stop the knobbed bolt from pulling it into the machine. Had I a turntable, maybe it would not have bunched up. As a quick fix, I wrapped the loose filament around a 1/2 empty regular spool and taped large cardboard fins on both sides to keep it from falling off. Worked
  20. My fan didn't seem to be as loud as it is now when I first received my U2. Just ordered the Digi-Key fan mentioned previously in the thread. Thanks for the info everyone!
  21. Good news that your U2 is now working! You said that you replaced the one rod yourself and that helped a little. Did Ultimaker give you details on what they did to fix the issue? Was it a bent gantry, misaligned metal bed or what? The back left quadrant of my build plate is also lower than the back right. I can clearly see that on the first layer, the filament is flattened out in the left and right front and back right, but round (like raw filament is just laying on the bed) in the back left. A lot of my first layer prints look like your pictures. If it was just misaligned, how do I re
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