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Everything posted by randyinla

  1. I gave up on Sketchup for 3D printing for this exact reason. Whereas I love the speed at which I can model things in Sketchup, its .stl output for solids is horrendous and more often then not, not printable.
  2. @Labern: What are your retraction settings on your machine? I upped my retraction length to 5.35 and my retraction speed to 45mm/s and I don't get those "ooze-traces when combing" anymore like you show in your photo. The only scratching I get is from the head actually scraping over pre-laid down skin, not from plastic oozing out of the head during the move. edit: I also try to print as low a temperature as possible on a material by material basis to also minimize oozing during moves.
  3. Didn't have any issue with that. I made an acrylic enclosure for the top with an acrylic door on the front. Printing with ABS is a joy now!
  4. I contacted Simon @ fbrc8.com and he's sending me out a replacement pane of glass under warranty. This new "1 year retroactive" warranty comes in handy! @Gr5: isn't this some kind of special glass? I mean, isn't it a special kind of glass to withstand the heated bed? Tempered? Made by Elves? If nothing else, it's thickness is specific so the clips will hold it in place. Would need it to not overhang as the overhung part might be a different temperature than the part that's contacting the heated bed. Might not be a concern, I don't know, just thinking out loud.
  5. 1) There was no skirt (or brim) (Couldn't remember the word 'skirt' when I made the original post. Called it 'outline') 2) That's interesting that adding a brim will trick Cura into printing larger! I am curious to try that and see what happens. 3) That's what I did the other night to get it to work. Made it 232 instead of 230... which lead to the right fan scraping the inside wall. Bending the right fan shroud (temporarily, of course) did the trick for that print. 4) Even though the print head is off center to the left, my print was centered more right than center :???: Strange.
  6. Crap! Last thing I read a few weeks ago was that Daid had been temporarily moved over and was helping out with dual extrusion. Said something like they had made some great advances and were shooting for 1st quarter 2015. This sucks :( Thanks for the update!
  7. Oh. One of those things.. That's a... um... you know, for... connecting with that other widget thingie for... ? I got no clue. Great looking ninja flex print though!
  8. It is a stock, factory-assembled U2. The part wasn't tall enough (talking Y axis) to come close to the metal clips on the glass corners. It remained grayed out in Cura no matter where I tried to drag-n-drop it. Seems it's a Cura thing and not a limit switch thing as adjusting the limit switches will have no effect on what Cura assumes my build area dimensions are. Though, for fine tuning the machine, checking those switches seems like a great idea! The Cura machine settings had defaulted to 230mm x 225mm when I originally told it I had an U2. Cura only allowed me to generate gcode after
  9. I tried printing out a panel that was 225mm wide with no brim or "outline". The specs state the build width can go up to 230mm. When I import the model into Cura, it's grayed out and I can't print it. I went into printer specifications and told it the U2 can print 232mm wide. Only then would it allow me to print. The right fan bumped/scraped along the right inside wall, so I aborted, bent the fan shrowd in just a tad and printed again with no issue. Even though I chose "center on print bed" in Cura, the entire piece seemed shifted to the right by maybe a cm when printed. I have to print
  10. Here's how I solved my thin line issue: I had thin, detached lines a few nights ago using Ultimaker blue PLA filament. Not just the 1st layer. Every layer had clearly aligned and unified gaps between the lines, the end points weren't all touching the walls and the walls were all separating. Had a few days of printing white ABS from iMakr.com with no issues whatsoever, so this seemed completely out of nowhere. Was like the hole in my hot end was clogged a little bit, only letting 1/2 the normal amount out. So I cleaned out the head and poked a .4mm needle through the opening and that did
  11. Sorry to revive such an old thread, but... I woke up this morning to a 25mm x 15mm chunk of glass missing from the middle of my platform, STUCK to the bottom of my print! :shock: What in the world do I do now?! Is this covered under the warranty? This happened before during the first month I owned my U2, but it was such a very teeny, tiny piece. Barely noticeable. More of a knick. This, however, is a definite missing chunk, maybe .2mm thick. I will not be able to print over this area anymore. DETAILS: Filament: White ABS from MatterHackers Heated Enclosure: Custom made acryl
  12. Nice resource, indeed. I spent the weekend trying to print out some small parts storage bins that had a 2mm radius on the bottom edge. Was driving me NUTS trying to get a clean fillet. Will change that to a 50% chamfer / 50% fillet when I get home tonight and see if it prints cleaner. Thank you, Robert!
  13. HA! I don't remember anything about replicators! :oops: It wasn't one of my fav shows, but I know I've seen a bunch
  14. oh! Very cool! I don't remember that episode at all!
  15. I was referred to that specific part page by Simon from US support and another guy from Ultimaker support in NL. Make sure to carefully inspect the solder joints from the 4-wire connector to the heated board. All four of mine were pretty bad, intermittent. I desoldered them, cleaned and re-soldered. Also, the wires that go into the screw holes should NOT be tinned! Whenever connecting wire to a screw block, bare wire is the preferred method. Open the panel that houses the main circuit board and make sure the wires going into those screw blocks are also not tinned. Good luck!
  16. Robert: I remember watching Stargate back in the day, but that piece doesn't seem familiar. Is it a single part out of something larger?
  17. Based on other posts I found in this forum, I switched from glue stick to using http://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Net-Unscented-Aerosol-Spray-11/dp/B002K33AFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420937948&sr=8-1&keywords=aquanet+hairspray+unscented for PLA, along with 60c heated bed. It's the purple-ish can. I spray onto a paper towel and wipe across the glass just so it looks wet. I haven't had any problem with PLA sticking since using it. Never spray the can directly onto the glass while inside the build area! Don't want hairspray getting over any moving parts. After running out of the suppli
  18. Same thing happened to me! I hadn't used my printer in a few weeks, then sliced something up and printed, only to find it stopped half way through the print. Cura still had the pause at z plugin from the last thing I sliced and I totally forgot about it. I was thinking it was strange that Cura persisted the plugins from one slicing to another. Seems that should have different behavior. Glad you got your speed issue resolved.
  19. I encountered the same situation with a previous failed print that left 1/16" of plastic coated around my print head. I am posting my chosen way of cleaning as a warning to avoid doing the same. I used a Dremel tool with a soft wire brush on lowest speed to clean the head and surrounding metal. It worked beautifully! The head looked brand new and all of the plastic was removed. However, after a few days of printing again, I noticed my surfaces were not nearly as smooth as before. I guess I inadvertently reshaped the nozzle around the opening and made it slightly rounded, like a ball po
  20. You'll want to print the feeder out of PLA so that if any particles rub off and on to the filament, it'll be melted in the hotend. ABS melts at a higher temp, so any of that would get clogged while printing something out of PLA which has a lower melting temp. Read through the description and comments for the feeder. I cut off 1/4" of my bowden tube and pushed it into the bottom of the feeder so my filament is never in contact with the PLA. And while you're at it, print up Robert's Low Friction UM2 Spoolholder. It incorporates bearings for an ultra smooth spin (watch the video) https://yo
  21. FYI the wires going into the screw block should not have solder on them! Cut off the ends and re-strip the wires to the same exposed length and give each one a few twists before re-connecting. The reason you don't want them soldered is that the solder is hard and the screw doesn't compress into it. Over time, the screw can come loose from vibration, resulting in intermittent connections. I had issues with my heated bed and found that 1) wires were tinned. 2) all four posts from the connector block had cold solder joints on the heated board (beeping from the screw to the board confirmed any s
  22. And longer electronic cables. Will these items be sold by Ultimaker individually or possibly as a U2 upgrade kit?If the parts were bought elsewhere and I wanted to maybe increase the Z by more than just 4", say 6", would my U2 firmware and Cura be configurable to know about the higher build area?
  23. Awesome model/print job! Might have to attempt this some time in 2015 :-P
  24. +1 on Robert's feeder. Have you also tried Robert's spool holder with bearings, as Labern suggested above? The slightest pull on the filament causes the spool to rotate freely. The original spool holder was just plastic rotating on plastic. The friction alone could sometimes cause feeder slippage. Since using both the new feeder AND spool holder, I have not noticed any feeding issues whatsoever.
  25. The underside is nice. I like the indents for the component wires to fit into. I'm gonna have to try my hand at this technique for the next board I make. Well done.
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