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Everything posted by randyinla

  1. Perhaps if we strapped a fan to the bird's back?
  2. I'm not entirely convinced of this statement. Given the size of the back fan and CFM (aprox 2.2~3), it would have an easier time cooling an inch away from the heat source rather than blowing directly on it. Heat always travels towards cold. By easily cooling the heat sink an inch away, it gives the heat somewhere to run to, away from the hot end. Trying to reduce the heat directly at its source with such a small fan wouldn't be that effective and doesn't give the built up heat anywhere to go, so it just stays there. I'm not saying your deflector doesn't work, just that the statement made me
  3. I had the exact same thing happen a few months ago. Post pulled clean out of the encoder. I was able to cobble up some switches to the circuit board so I could still use the machine. Wasn't pretty, felt like redneck engineering, but that's no way to use such a beautiful machine Contact Simon at support@fbrc8.com. He sent me a replacement circuit board w/encoder, minus the display. Swapped it out in about 5 min.
  4. Taken out of context, this topic can make you do a double take :eek: If the ABS pulls don't work, you may have to take the hot end out and manually clean the inside. I've done that by heating up the element, pushing a small length of ABS directly into it, rotating it around a bit to try and break free the burned part, then pull it back out. If the filament snaps while doing this, leaving some inside, small needle nose pliers come in handy. I was kinda surprised when the filament turned into a taffy-like consistency. I thought it would turn more like pancake batter when heated up instea
  5. Just left this same tip in another thread. I clean around my hot end and aluminum fan shroud using a Dremel with wire brush tip on the lowest speed setting. Works beautifully and leaves the metal looking brand new. I too had a failed print go on for about 8 hours, coating everything from the hot end up in molten plastic. Took about 10 - 20 min to clean it all up. Stay away from the bottom of your hot end with the Dremel. You don't want to reshape it by accident and ruin your prints!!
  6. I have a Dremel close by and will run it at its lowest speed with a wire brush to give the outside a clean, shiny appearance from time to time. I've had it so blackened at times that tiny bits fall off and into my print. Be careful not to run it around the bottom, flat part where the hole is because you can reshape it by accident. I did that and was printing out tiny troughs instead of flat lines. Was horrible! Pulled a flat file across the bottom a few times as a last ditch effort before having to buy a new nozzle and it worked a treat! I am back to perfectly flat lines of filament agai
  7. If you keep some acetone in a syringe handy, it's easy to spot weld the ends of ABS filament together on the fly.
  8. Hey Erik, Do you have a public bug tracker setup? Would be awesome to have a place we could go to to create tickets vs. coming to the forums where people might end up frustrated and complain? The only time I've seen 404 errors was when I was logged into the beta tester version. Some pages weren't found, but that was to be expected to some extent.
  9. Ah, I see. Thank you for the explanation, TinkerGnome. I also read that OctoPrint can save directly to the SD card, but since the max USB serial transmission is 250kbps (31.25KBps), it could take a long time to transfer. All I was really looking for, originally, was a way to abort a print at home from work if I see it's failed in some way via webcam. Being able to initiate a print remotely isn't that high on the wish list as there is always adhesion prep to be done and that can't happen remotely. EDIT: If only I could train a Jack Terrier dog... hmmmm.... a monkey, perhaps...
  10. Technically, it should be possible to add the correct ulticodes, no? I had a look at OctoPrint today and glanced at their open sourced https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Cookbook:-Custom-Controls. Seems anyone can add any gcode that isn't currently supported by OctoPrint, why not add the required ulticode codes for moving the bed, heating, etc.,? Then we wouldn't need to switch over to the reprap marlin setting. Or is ulticode a completely different protocol and not just extra codes upon the same protocol?
  11. I used to, yes. Buttons that broke off of an old Akai MPC-2000, Ensoniq EPS-rack, knob for Roland VP-9000 etc. Haven't done so for a few years. I'm hoping to be able to make some molds of new 3D printed things to save time printing many of them. Faster to perfect one, then make a mold of it.
  12. I had to go looking through my old supplies to find which mold release I used. I have a can of Mann's Ease Release 200 and Smooth-On's Universal Mold Release. I must have used the Smooth-On more because the can is absolutely empty! I use Oomoo 30 for molds and various plastics; Smooth-Cast 300, Smooth-Cast 305, Smooth-Cast 325, Smooth-Cast 385, Task-9 and a bunch of So-Strong color tints. I've never really been into modeling, but rather, used the products to reproduce lost or broken knobs/buttons from various recording studio gear.
  13. I just had some arrive yesterday. I want to use it to make T-Glase more transparent and not so much for a final finish coat over the entire print. I have used SmoothOn products for mold-making for years. Looking forward to seeing what this does!
  14. I looked but can't find an email or forum post stating 2.2 cfm for the original fan, but I remember clearly being concerned about it before ordering the replacement. I believe I had the model # of the original fan and found it on Digikey where it stated it was 2.2. Yes, I may be wrong, but I don't think I am. Because I remember clearly being elated to find that the replacement was also 2.2, which is why I ordered it. Having said all that, I've had my new Sunon MC25060V2-000U-A99 fan in place since last August, 1/2 year, and everything has been fine with regards to the hot end. I am ve
  15. Axsdenied: I poked and prodded my original back fan before deciding to replace it. If I warped its squareness a little bit, the noise would be significantly reduced. This lead me to believe that the squealing sound it made to be more bad bearings, or just a bad run of fans. It was NOT working as designed. The replacement fan is almost dead quiet. From what I read about the CFM of both, they are identical. How do you determine the replacement fan is providing less cooling? The only thing I've seen you mention is RPM, which is not the only factor. you want to compare CFM Cubic Feet per
  16. Ha! I see what you did there... linked sausage.
  17. Is it possible to abort a print via USB? I got a GoPro camera so I can monitor print progress remotely. It would be AWESOME to be able to abort failed prints remotely (via remote desktop to home computer, then abort UM2 via USB). +1. I too would LOVE to be able to print mockups for 19" rack mount pieces! Printing two pieces and gluing them together is yucky. Ah! Which reminds me... a way to un-lock the homed head so one CAN freely move the gantry around. Whenever my gantry goes to the home position, the steppers stay on and I cannot move it around. I have to power cycle
  18. I bought a few 1qt mason jars with lids and heat up the acetone on my UM2 build plate with no issues. Make a hook out of a paper clip & tape onto the bottom/inside of one of the mason jar lids. Make the hook long enough so the bottom of your dangled part is just above the top of the acetone, not touching. Heat up bed to 90c Place mason jar with few teaspoons of acetone already inside onto the build plate and cover with a second lid (no hook on this one) to keep the vapors in Watch as the vapors start climbing up the sides of the jar Put your part onto the hook hanging from the pre
  19. I liked the additional 4" height of the UMextended, but what I'd really, REALLY love is 4" more in the X & Y! I realize that adding height alone doesn't introduce much more in the way of stability compared to wider/longer XY rods. Would thicker rods help? Anyway, larger build area would be #1 on my list.
  20. I too am disappointed in this announcement re:no dual extrusion. However, I find myself disappointed in the delivery of the message and, more so, the final reasons given for cancellation, not the cancellation itself. When Ultimaker first announced they weren't going to make their first release date, the reasons were all about heat and how the currently designed metal carriage needed to be redesigned. Ok. Sounds like a serious issue, but not unsolvable. I was excited to hear what little details were surfacing about teflon/ceramic this, aluminum redesign that, possibly some other materia
  21. Thank you for sharing your method, Solid Print 3D! (don't know your name) I modeled my puck after the hand-held "mallets" used to play air hockey. I had some syringes laying around so keep one full of acetone close by at all times now. I had a panic at first, thinking, "OMG! What if the syringe is made of ABS?!?" :shock: Works great! Printed up one for every color ABS spool I own. My favorite thing about this method is that no matter how messy the slurry looks, it's still the same color as the filament I'm using, so the bottom is flawless! No glue swirls. Edit: I've adjusted and u
  22. I made a similar part to the one in your photo over the weekend and played with turning on/off combing for all or everything except skin and I saw no difference in printing. I had no lines or drools between perimeters as your photo shows. Even had my first line @ .3mm, which I never do. I wanted to make one giant hole in the center to kind of force a combing operation and try again, but I got too tired
  23. Ah. So it's not even attempting retraction over the 45 degree fill area, only on the borders? Hmmm It would seem that turning off combing for the skin surfaces should not turn off retraction all together. It should just go from one point straight to the next, regardless of holes in the path. I happened use the "no skin" combing feature for the print I made last night and did not notice such drooling while moving the head between cutouts on my first layer. But I have only upgraded Cura to 15.01, have yet to flash the U2 firmware. Perhaps that is why? My bowden tube is snug, no movemen
  24. FYI: I contacted Colorfabb a few days ago and they said brassfill's availability is delayed until the end of February.
  25. I have printed a few things in Colorfabb's clear XT and T-Glase, hoping to make things like windows for model cars or buildings. The end results were the same, crappy. Both product manufacturers suggest the thicker the layer, the better, as this refracts the light less than thin layers. However, you still can't see through it as if it were glass. Just found this new use for Taulman's T-Glase filament. It fills in the voids around the edges of the layers and makes it more optically flat, like glass. Taulman claims it's some chemical bonding that magically happens with their filament, so I
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