amedee

Ça se défend: si tu imprimes régulièrement avec 2 filaments différents ça te permet de passer de l'un à l'autre sans devoir changer/purger...

It is just 'rendering' in the manual, the nozzle isn't threaded either... Not a lot, half a millimeter is probably enough... Let me try to explain: if you follow the manual, you will get the nozzle tight against the pipe. So far so good. But after that you will need to get the brass pipe tight and this is an issue, because it is not easy to get a good grip on it, if it is not tight enough it will leak, and a bit too much torque it will break... And even if you get it right, if you want to change the nozzle there is no way you can put it back without taking it apart as you never know if you tight against the block or the pipe. So the idea is the following: you put the pipe and the nozzle in place with your bare hands (no tools). If the nozzle comes against the block, unscrew a bit the nozzle and screw the pipe; if the nozzle is too far do the opposite. Do small adjustments until you have 0.5 - 1mm (1/32") between the bloc and the nozzle. That way, when you tight the nozzle you can hold the block and you are sure you always tight against the pipe and it won't leak. Now that it is place, set it tight. If you have a torque wrench 0.5 Nm is more than enough (You can also print Anders' torque key) When the hot-end is in place, get it warm and tight it again gently.

But you have UM2 hot-ends It is with the final version (my beta nozzle is broken)

I was just saying the following: If I print PLA at 210°C with the brass nozzle, I need to got to 220°C with the ruby (+10°C) If I print XT at 245°C with the brass nozzle, I need to got to 260°C with the ruby (+15°C) So when the target temperature is higher, the difference between brass/ruby increase as well. Do not focus too much on these numbers, I haven't done any scientific measurements these are just observations on a couple of prints. The reason I was mentioning this is because @Titus has an UMO as well, so this might be why we experience a bigger difference than UM2 users. (Note that Anders said from the beginning that the ruby was not designed for the UMO)

Or because you have an UMO... With both the beta and the production nozzle I have a significant difference in temperature between brass and ruby, and the difference tends to increase at higher nozzle temperatures. My take is that the UMO block does not transfer the heat in the same way the Olsson block does.

I've seen many people breaking the brass pipe, but it is first time I see a broken nozzle. I guess you tight it way too much to avoid leaks (which did not help)... Check all your parts, if they are all good, then you just need a heater block and a nozzle. For the nozzle, I would go for an E3d or an Olsson one, they exists in different diameters and are interchangeable, while the Ultimaker one is bigger. In case the brass pipe and/or the PEEK look damaged, then buy an "hot end pack", it will probably be cheaper and you will have some spares with the leftovers...

Actually this reminds me something worth mentioning... Both reprap controllers (smart and full graphics) have a 'kill' button. Do NOT use this button on the UMO as it generates a short circuit (and you might kill more things than expected ). On my full graphics case I glued the button!

Si tu utilises des capteurs PT100 il ne faut rien changer coté firmware.

Tiens, je retombe là dessus un peu par hazard... Si tu veux faire le homing de ton UMO comme sur l'UM2 jettes un œil sur ce bricolage... (Un peu de pub pour mes élucubrations...)

Voir plus haut:

Je confirme que le NTC 100K est bien un thermistor. Si c'est celui de E3D, il faut compiler un firmware avec le TEMP_SENSOR 5 "100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)" Et il doit être monté avec un pull-up de 4.7k Sur un Ultiboard 2.x il y a pas trop le choix des pins: Exp3 / PB7 (Pin 13) Ext/IO PC7 (Pin 30) Ext/IO PD7 (Pin 38 )

Oui mais les UMO pas plus ont un Ultiboard 1.5.x. La photo postée ici est clairement un Ultiboard 2.x pour lequel il faut du pt100. Si on veut effectivement utiliser un thermocouple sur un board 2.x, il faut en effet un ampli (Ultimaker ou E3d), utiliser un port libre sur la carte (exp3 probablement) et bidouiller le firmware pour utiliser ce port. Le plus simple serait quand même d'utiliser un pt100... Edit: le NTC100k est je pense un thermistor, pas un thermocouple, donc pas besoin d'ampli, juste une résistance...

Heuuu ? @electromu, sur un board UM2 c'est quand même du PT100 à tous les étages? (Même avec une UMO)

Easiest is to mount and tight it cold, then when it is in place on the printer, warm up the nozzle and tight it one last time. Re. The torch cleaning method, I fully agree with @neotko: if you burn too much it will deform, but used wisely it is still my preferred method -- but indeed not too hot, if you get it red, it is way too much (I'll put the video on the list, but right now, I am already running double shifts...)

For the connection it is relatively straightforward... There is a picture in this old thread -- the only caveat is that some users have reported that the notch on the connector could be on the wrong side. Mine had no such issue. For uploading the firmware, use Cura. For the Legacy Cura (15.xx) it is Machine / Install Custom Firmware. With the newer one (2.3.1) do Settings / Printer / Manage Printers / Upgrade Firmware / Upload custom Firmware

Plus que probablement transistor grillé, @electromu à la rescousse...

Peut être, mais c'est avant tout une question de température des couches respectives. Si la couche précédente refroidit trop la nouvelle sera juste collée dessus et on aura du délaminage lors d'un effort. Avec la bonne température, on obtient une réelle liaison entre les couches et ça ne bouge plus.

As the heater and temperature cartridges looks very clean, here is what I would do: With everything cold: - Remove the cartridges, so the heater bloc can now move freely. - Hold the peek with a wrench and unscrew heater bloc. Depending on how the plastic 'seals' everything together, you will get either the 3 parts (brass pipe, bloc, nozzle), or the brass pipe might stay in the PEEK. If the brass pipe stays in the PEEK, you will have to remove it using pliers. Be careful it is fragile. Best is now to unscrew the metal base plate and take the PEEK out, you will be more comfortable to work on it. Now, use @korneel's method decribed here to cleanup the nozzle, bloc and pipe. They will be like new and ready to go!

... and while I am at complaining... Depending on the size of you browser window, the "Mark as read | Layout settings | Save filter X" menu appears left or right. This is very disturbing if you frequently switch from one environment to another as it does not provide a consistent user interface...

BTW, that "transparent floating bar" on mobile devices is very annoying. (I mean the " <- Dashboard" ->" thing)

You should have said that sooner...

It all needs to be tighten... Note that the nozzle should not be flush against the bloc -- here is how it should look like: (It is an E3D nozzle, but it doesn't matter). If your nozzle is currently mounted like this, then it is very easy: tight it and all will be fixed (I would recommend a torque of 0.5Nm). It your nozzle is already flush against the bloc then it is a bit more complicated as you can't tight it more... In that case you will have to disassemble the bloc so you can screw the brass pipe further in the bloc, and then tight the nozzle against the brass pipe.

Yep, that's what I always do: delete the question mark and everything after, submit the page and eventually post...

C'est plus compliqué que ça, vu qu'ils ont aussi fait une conversion 1.75 avec une tête E3d... Ils démontrent que le Bondtech pousse fort, mais ça on le savait déjà. La question est: qu'est ce que ça apporte pour l'utilisateur lambda...

C'est aussi lié à la quantité de 'brol' qu'ils envoient à chaque page... Avec un bloqueur de contenu (genre uBlock Origin) on économise facilement 30% de bande passante sur les pages du 'forum'...