amedee

Just FYI, I recommend to use the 'default' (stable) builder, not the 'experimental' one unless you really want/need to experiment The experimental version is an incubator for new features which may or may not be really stable. Today there is no new feature on the experimental side so experimental and stable are exactly the same, but it is not always the case.

It is actually a common problem on the UMO. You can also replace the molded part by a 8x14x4 bearing (See here for a picture)

Good news, enjoy your new firmware (and the upgrade )

Temperature sensor is a PT100 on both version, not a thermocouple. But yes, you can safely upgrade the hot end and keep the same firmware.

Good point. And you cannot change that with G-Code... You could swap the cables of the stepper, but waiting on a solution for the firmware is probably easier...

No the e-steps is a firmware thing... (it can be overridden with GCode, but it is not a common practice)

The feeder needs a different e-step setting. So you can either stay with the old feeder until your firmware issue is solved, or add a M92 E369.00 in your GCode to adjust the e-steps manually

ICSP is indeed a bit drastic, but avrdude is not -- it is what I always do, and I do it quite often as I maintain an alternative firmware for the UMO. It is a serial protocol, but it requires a special adapter (Or an Arduino). Difficult to be formal on that, but I have a couple of lines more than you have when I connect my printer... Absolutely, it is the same board (you just need to select the right firmware ) I can't help you with that side of the Force

In case it helps, here is how I flash firmware with avrdude (works for both UltiBoards 1.5.x and 2.1.x) Port="/dev/ttyACM0"HexFile="MarlinUltimaker...." # Your firmware fileavrdude -C /etc/avrdude.conf -v -p atmega2560 -c wiring -P "${Port}" -b 115200 -D -U "flash:w:${HexFile}:i" There is a demo of this method in this (boring) video (at 5:00): (It is on an UMO+ which has the same board as the UM2)

Yes!

Yes -- If you plan to replace the original LEDs, not in addition (just to be clear on that). If you want to add some (always on) LEDs, you can source the 24v from various places on the board...

I would be tempted to say to re-flash the boot loader through the ICSP header, but if it is broken, how was the initial firmware loaded? A shot in the dark: I appreciate usbcore is not registering the device, but we have [ 115.383050] cdc_acm 7-1:1.0: ttyACM0: USB ACM device Is /dev/ttyACM0 created? If yes, we could try to flash the firmware with avrdude (I always use avrdude to flash my firmware as I have a Rasberry Pi connected to my printers). It probably won't work, but it is easy to try... Also a very basic question: can you confirm your printer is powered on when you attach the USB cable (I am not sure for the Ultiboard 2, but on the old Ultimaker the Arduino gets power from the USB, so it answers even when the printer off...)

For nylon you need PVA glue...

This is not really new, there are already quite some posts about running the old UMO under 24v. Just want to share my experience -- if you have the Heated Bed Kit installed it is a very easy hack as the HBK power supply is 24v. Why would you want to do this? Because: My heater cartridge is 24v, so heating with the original 19v can be slow I have 24v fans (Actually 12v in series) I have 24v LEDs (id) I don't know how efficient/powerful the 24 to 19v step down is, but when the printer starts my LEDs are fading, so it is definitely not over-dimensioned How to do it? You just need to to bring the 24v from the HBK board to the Ultiboard: . The original 12v linear converter is not powerful enough and if not already done it needs to be replaced by a switching step-down regulator . Note: On my old board (1.5.3) the electronics fan is on the regulated 12v, so it is not affected by this hack. But if you have a more recent board (e.g. 1.5.7), the fan is directly connected on Vin, so it will go from 19 to 24v. On these printers, the electronics fan is 24v, so there is no issue, but it will be more noisy This is obvious, but do not forget to remove the old cable linking the boards! That's it: enjoy 24v . I have added a plug on the wires between the 2 boards, so I could easily revert to the old setup (not sure why I would do that, but I liked the idea of having a backup plan )

Pour le "peigne", c'est pour tenir les fils sur l'ampli de thermocouple des UMO pas + . Les 4 blocs sont des support pour le plateau acrylique (pas chauffant) de l'UMO (j'ai pas de photo de ça, mon vieux plateau ne les avait pas)

As I had to take the PCB out of my printer, I took the opportunity to take a picture of the MOSFET. This confirms it is an IRF8736

There is no 12v on the UltiBoard 2.1.x It is essentially 24v, and 5v mainly for the electronics and the hot end fan. If you want to use and E3D hot end, you need the 24v version. For the fan you could use a step-down / regulator to go from 24v to 12v, but is is probably easier to mount a 5v or a 24v fan. For the hot end, you should really go for a 24v heater cartridge.

Q2 is an IRF8736PBF MOSFET... (See schematics - same as @SyntaxTerror mentionned)

If you don't need to print hot (> 240°C), the UMO stock hot end is perfect and you should not change it. If it constantly clogs, there is a problem either with the hot end itself (coupler, mount, ...) or with the slicer setup (retracting too high, in particular after print). One thing though, it is very unlikely, but if you have a very old UMO (from the first batches, without Teflon coupler), that one is subject to clogs, and there is an upgrade kit... For higher temps, the E3D is the most affordable one, but as you mention the 3mm version is not the best option for PLA (although mine works fine so far).

Tablet is OK (Although the change in look & feel is very annoying if you often change from device as I already mentioned) Phone is just good enough to check a post, but nothing more than that... My understanding is that this thread is just here to vent and get our frustrations out, not to address real problems. Search is broken, navigation is broken, you loose your replies to posts, user interface is questionable, ... all these have been flagged months ago but apparently nobody cares enough to fix these. On the bright side the community (I mean the people) is great, this is probably why we are still around against all odds...

Si mes souvenirs sont bons, le ressort est là pour compenser d'éventuelles variations de la hauteur de la tête, dans l'optique de pouvoir ajuster la hauteur pour le kit double extrusion qui était planifié. Comme ce kit n'a jamais vu le jour, l'utilisation d'un ressort ne se justifie plus...

This is the old thread: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2676-modification-of-upgraded-extruder-drive

Les poulies c'est une chose, mais qu'en est-il des courroies? Sont elles bien tendues, en particulier les petites? Comme les vis des moteurs ont tendance à se marquer dans le bois, il est parois difficile de les retendre, les vis reprenant leur place initiale. Je préconise l'ajout de grandes rondelles pour éviter ce problème. Déformées je ne sais pas, mais ce n'est pas un secret que les poulies de l'Originale ne sont pas de qualité exemplaire. Si il y a de l'usure de ce coté il est préférable de remplacer les poulies et courroies d'origine (standard MXL) par des poulies/courroies GT2.

Pratiquement en permanence, avec toutefois une prédilection pour le soir...

Ik ken die LCD controller helemaal niet. Ik denk dat het een clone is van de RepRapDiscount Smart controller, en volgens @Daid (zie hier) die zou moeten werken. Het kan zijn dat de kabels verkeerd zijn (zie hier) -- het gebeurt dikwijls met die controllers. Verder kan ik niet helpen -- Chinese clones zijn vrij goedkoop, maar je moet ook niet te veel verwachten op niveau van kwaliteit, documentatie en ondersteuning...