amedee

Je suis plutôt mauvaise langue sur le sujet, mais je doit avouer que le dernier Cura (2.3.1) s'est amélioré en terme de performance -- c'est maintenant très similaire à l'ancien 14.07... (Quoique j'aie des doutes sur les chemins choisis par le slicer, si ce n'était leur politique de licence qui ne me convient pas trop je serais déjà passé voir chez S3D) Le forum par contre, je ne lancerai pas sur cette pente savonneuse...

Grmblblbl -- encore une erreur 500 qui me saborde ma réponse :( Donc oui, je n'ai pas essayé personnellement, mais pour ce que j'ai pu en voir elle donne de bons résultats. Je suis surtout attiré par leur architecture (déplacement sur des glissières linéaires) qui donne un ensemble très rigide. Et avec un volume d’impression équivalent à une UM3 Extended, le prix est quand même plus doux. Sans oublier leur kit de têtes interchangeables qui est lui aussi plutôt abordable.

Moi j'aurais quand même été voir la belle espagnole...

C'est assez aléatoire, même sur du "Reply"...

En terme de performance, le temps nécessaire à faire un homing

Tu as adapté la hauteur plateau pour le Buildtack? Je l'utilise pour imprimer du Polymaker PC-Max, mais je met le plateau 1 à 2 dixièmes plus bas (à la limite de l’adhérence pour la première couche). Ça reste dur à décoller, mais ce n'est pas destructif. Je n'en imprime pas des kilos non plus, mais après une 20aine d'impressions la feuille est toujours en bon état.

My LEDs are 12v as well, but since my left and right strips are of equal length I just connect them in series on the 24v PWM output...

Yes indeed there are very few things you can't opt-out, mostly bug fixes. Led control is one of them. I should probably document that as I tend to claim that without any option it is the same as the official firmware, but it is not 100% true anymore.

Almost... You need to ensure the right printer is selected (default is UMO) . And tell the builder which controller you have (default is UltiController)

for the enclosure, check this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/stand-holder-for-the-full-graphic-smart-controller You won't loose any settings using my firmware, it is exactly the same as the Ultimaker one, except for the controller (unless you select any other fancy option )

This one should work: https://folgertech.com/collections/lcd-displays/products/lcd-display-controller-12864-graphical-reprap-ramps-3d-printer-mendel-1 It is a ReprapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. It will need a custom firmware (like this one https://bultimaker.bulles.eu )

Well, kind of... When it comes to coordinates, the GCode used by the traditional 3d printer firmwares (Marlin, Repetier, ...) is nowhere compared to what CNC are doing. G92 will (re)set the coordinate system, not create a 'user space offset' like you do with G54,... on a CNC. Once you change your coordinates with G92, if you are using software endstops (like it is configured on UMO+/UM2 printers), you will crash the head on the borders if you go out of bounds, because the firmware won't see it... The safest way is to place your part in the slicer. Indeed, very good resource.

If you really have a volume, but still get blue walls it means that the face is 'inverted' (inside out), and you can put it back the right way in Sketchup. Having said that I second @ahoeben opinion about Sketchup. I started with it years ago, because it has a nice learning curve and easy to use. I got nice models out of it at start, but when things get really complex you will eventually end up with unprintable models and all the time you invested in the design of that model will be lost. Even if you pay attention to what you are doing you will get troubles soon or later: Units: Sketchup uses internally fixed precision numbers. I you work in real units (e.g. mm) you easily hit the precision limitation when you intersect objects. You can workaround this by upscaling you model (say 1m is actually 1mm) and print at 1/1000 in Cura, but it is not nice When you start playing with circles and tangents you will very easily end up with models that are not watertight and cannot be printed. You will spend hours to find where the leak is There are tools to fix that, but it is much easier to have it right at the start There are other issues leading to non-manifold models, but these are the most common. Sketchup is a great tool, mainly in architecture, but not for 3D printing... (it is a bit outdated, but I like this chart...)

Exactly!

Hmmm.... Not sure about what you are asking exactly, but for the 24v hot-end cooling fan there is nothing to do. You just have to take the power either from the connector mentioned above, or from the 'Fan' output on the other side of the board like here: In both case they are always 'On', so the fan will always run. Alternatively, you can use a 5v fan and connect it to the fan output in middle of the board, but then you will need this firmware to enable it if you have a recent board. These are the simplest solutions.

Yes, should work.

The connector is a JST-XH, you should be able to find that easily. For the other parts, I would recommend to stay away from cheap copies, most of them are poor quality. One missed print and you will loose the benefit...

C'est le même pas que la plupart des buses du marché, donc une 3d solex ou e3d ça le fait parfaitement. Par rapport à la buse Ultimaker, elles sont plus courtes; il faut simplement réajuster le end-stop.

If you really have an UMO+ (and not an UMO) then it is a pt100, not a thermocouple...

It's on YouMagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/software-adjustable-bed-leveling-on-umo

Thanks guys 8)

Yes indeed, I am an OctoPrint user... It is a design from @adrien_12 : it is on YouMagine. Very simple, but effective.

(Apologies, can' speak German) Did you also check the 'plastic wheel'? With the time it tends to wear out and do not press anymore on the filament (it slips on the side). You can replace it with a 8x14x4 bearing -- see this post for the pictures

np, we all are I am confident about the 'top homing', as I use it without any problem, but I haven't test bottom homing. I still need to make a short youmagine page as well with my very simple sensor holder and quick instructions...

It is still in the 'experimental' branch, until i get enough positive feedback https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental