amedee

It is actually "less or equal", so shortest moves are 6 steps, 0.03mm...

There is nothing wrong with E3D and small PLA objects. With a comparable setup (same fan / nozzle) I get identical results on my E3D setup and the stock one. This is my first PLA print with the E3D hot-end, same GCode as I used on my stock printer and same result.

Yes it should... (To be tested, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work)

Progress update: I have now connected the sensor, here is the first accuracy test: As explained above, the sensor and the switch are in series, should we have a sensor issue the plate wouldn't crash on the hot-end.

The offset is not per say negative, it is the fact that you add it to the current position that places your zero more towards the negative direction. This offset is a float, so it signed by definition and can have any value you like...

The printf '%i' specifier expects a int, not a float...

Yes that's why I was asking if you bought the E3D UM2 upgrade kit as opposed to buying just the hot end, as in the first case they would have sent 24v automatically... Happy you found the issue.

That is very weird, there is no way you can gain 40°C in 1 second... I would suspect something wrong with the sensor, or the cartridge generating interference... Is this the 'official' E3D upgrade kit for UM2?

Are you doing this with warm hot-end? Marlin gives this message when you overshoot the target temperature by 20°C. Since you don't specify a target temp it is 150°C by default so if you start with a hot-end warmer than 170°C it will abort. Anyway, you should do PID tuning at the temperature you usually use -- if you typically print at 215°C, use: M303 S215

Short story: 2 sensors on the same port. Longer version: the UMO uses NO (Normally Open) switches, so if your sensor is NO as well, you just have to connect them both in parallel on the board, they will both trigger. In my case I have an NC sensor, so I'll rewire the switch in NC as well (using the other pin on the switch) and connect them in series so any of them will open the circuit. This requires a parameter change in the firmware (which magically appeared in the builder UI tonight 8) )

Reactivating a bit this thread... I am not a big fan of homing at the bottom, so my plan if to use a sensor at the top, and home at 10-15mm below the hot-end. Just some preliminary test -- In this boring video I am moving the bed 0.1mm up/down to confirm detection a the same place (I'll do further test with a gauge, but for now it works as expected) As I want to play sure and have both suspenders and belt, I'll leave the mechanical end-stop in place, so should something happen with the sensor the bed won't go through the roof

See also this old thread: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10100-um-material-feeder-falls-apart You really to use a wrench to tight everything together -- and be sure the cap is tight against the gear and not against the axis.

I would suggest to try USB printing... If that works then your SD-card reader is probably faulty -- from your post I understand you already changed the main board, but not the smaller 'controller' board...

Prends quand même un relais 'solid state'. Le contrôle température du plateau c'est du 'soft PWM', avec un relais mécanique ça va jouer des castagnettes...

J'ai trouvé des plans sur le web...

But again, UMO+ is 24v....

I eventually took time to implement a long outstanding enhancement request in my firmware fork: temperature tweaks. This feature allows you to tweak requested hot-end and bed temperature as well as fan settings by either a fixed value (override) or with an adjustment (offset). Why would you want to use that? There is a very simple use case: let's say you have an existing GCode file you want to print, but with a different material. You could stand by the printer and adjust the temperature and fan parameters on the fly, but it is not always practical if there are further changes in the GCode (it is typically the case for the fan, and it happens as well for the the nozzle temperature)... Now you can just set the overrides and start the print -- e.g.: Print 15°C warmer: "Temp. offsets -> Nozzle: +015 Bed at 80°c: "Temp. overrides -> Bed: 80" Half of the fan settings: "Temp. offsets -> Fan speed (%): 50 Note that: Zero is zero -- You cannot override/tweak zero values (Off) from the GCode. We do not want to leave the printer active after a print is finished. This makes sense after all. The only caveat is for the fan: if the GCode continuously set the fan to 0, you will not be able to override it. For all tweaks, 0 (Zero) means feature disabled (except fan ratio where it is 100%) If you want to have no fan on your print, set "Offset -> Fan to 0%", as "Override -> Fan: 0" means no fan tweak! It does not make sense to have both override and offset for a device, so setting one automatically disable the other. To illustrate with the above example -- we set the tweaks: As we can see this has no effect as the printer is idle We preheat for PLA (Should be Nozzle 210°C, Bed 60°C) But the tweaks change that to Nozzle 225°C, Bed 80°C: This feature as been tested on my UMO and UMO+, it is currently only in the experimental branch of the code and in the builder at https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental/ (it is the only difference between the stable and the experimental version right now) As usual, by default the builder only builds stock Ultimaker firmware, you need to enable any additional features

Can't help here... I never had clogging on my UMOs, so there must be something basically wrong.

This is an old picture, but you can see the shims between the metal and the wooden plates. Without shims, you typically have some clearance near the PEEK and tightening on the other side makes that the plates are not level anymore, so it forces on the PEEK. Properly mounted, as long as you do not print hot (<240°C), the stock UMO hot-end is perfect -- just need a coupler from time to time. For me, the trigger for changing the coupler is when it starts to be difficult to do a cold pull at 90°C (with PLA). There is also something you need to take care during assembly. The manual says you need to push the Bowden before tightening the screws. The reason for this is that the Bowden will be flush with the coupler and gently push on it. Now if you do this when the screws are still too loose, you will generate too much pressure on the coupler and it will deform rapidly...

If the problem is only there when the fan is on, consider using a firmware with 'Slow PWM' for the fan (that is: 'Fast PWM' disabled) The thermocouple on the UMO is sensible to the fan PWM, and since I switched to 'Slow PWM' my temperature is super stable. Edit: apologies for double post, @Neotko was faster than myself

If you look at my pictures a couple of post higher you will see the E3D sock... Although most of the advantages of the sock goes away with this fancap (as there is no air stream going directly to the block) it still protects the nozzle from collecting material, so I left it as well.

Yes indeed, just the "bottom" plate would differ. I was also thinking this plate could be a bit higher -- e.g. On my E3D head I need some clearance for the thermocouple amp. Obviously the height of the motor would need to be adapted to keep the axis perfectly level. Time to order BondTech gears...

How do you 'connect' the output of the extruder to input of the hot end? A piece of Bowden tube? Just thinking on how It could be modified for an UMO head...

It's probably too late, but for the next time... The trick is to position the pulleys with the set-screws on the same place when you put the belts around them. Because if there is an offset between sides it will be a pain to adjust them afterwards as both sides won't be reachable at the same time...

These are indeed the set screws for the pulleys, see manual pp 16 & 36.